Info needed: Engine Pre-Lube after storage

[Les Kovacs]

I am assuming that most posters on this forum live in Canada and have to put into storage their lovingly restored vehicles over the winter months which here in Barrie, Ontario started on November 10 with the first 15cm snowfall. Like most years my jeep will not be driven until maybe mid to late April. Every spring I cringe of having to crank the jeep on/off for about 2-3 minutes before she fires up and runs smoothly. I worry about the starter wearing and most importantly the lack of oil flow and engine wear on first start-up after months of storage.
So, here is the question and info required...if I pull the plugs from my 67' M38A1 and squirt oil into each cylinder and then crank the engine via the crank bolt and air wrench (set on low) will this pre-lube the system and save engine wear on initial start-up?

Regards,

lesk

[motto]

To pre pressurise the lubrication system on an engine that has been standing for some time or has been rebuilt I use an oil pump that is like a bicycle tyre pump but only about half the length and made of brass.
On engines with a bypass filter (virtually all WW2 era vehicle engines had bypass filters) I disconnect the oil line that goes to the filter and attach it to the pump. I then fill the pump with oil, install the piston and rod and force the oil into the engine. You may have to do it a couple of times before you get pressure up but it will not fail. The extra oil in the engine is not enough to worry about.
Using this method also gives you an indication of engine wear based on how long it takes the pump to stroke out.

David

[rob love]

I don't consider 6 months as needing pre-lube. Use the pump handle on your fuel pump to pre-fill the carb and you will save 2 minutes of cranking.



I might pre-lube for a 6-year parked engine, and definitely would for 16 year.

[Les Kovacs]

Thanks Motto and Rob...Rob....pumping the handle has no effect on fuel delivery....on pumping the handle I feel no pressure and I do not hear fuel moving/gurgling. However, the fuel pump does delivery vacuum to operate the wipers which work well.....not sure what's going on.

lesk

[rob love]

I have always wondered if that handle would be innefective if the cam was at it's highest point of the lobe. I know on mine, and many of the vehicles here at the museum, the handle saves a whole lot of cranking.

The dole primer pump would also be effective if it was hooked up, but very few of them are.

[David Herbert]

Les,
If you crank the engine with an air wrench (I assume you mean an air IMPACT wrench) you will do up the crankshaft pulley bolt way tighter than it is designed for. This is not a good idea.
On the other hand if you crank it for 2 to 3 mins with the starter and then it does start, that will very effectively pre lube all the bearings while putting very little load on them as it is taking that long for fuel to get to the carb and the engine will have oil pressure when it does start. If you keep an eye on the oil pressure light when cranking it you should see it go out quite quickly even if the engine has been stood for several years.
I agree with Rob Love that 6 months is just not a long time in this context. Don't worry about the wear on the starter, it will not noticeably shorten it's life to operate it for an extra 3 mins per year !

David

[charlie fitton]

Pull the plugs and "mist" the cylinders with something like WD40, crank like Dave says and watch the gauge or light, plugs back in and you should be good to go.

[rob love]

Originally Posted by David Herbert

Les,
If you crank the engine with an air wrench (I assume you mean an air IMPACT wrench) you will do up the crankshaft pulley bolt way tighter than it is designed for. This is not a good idea.

David

Never drive anything like a crank or even an alternator with an impact wrench. You can break off the shaft from the overtorquing. Don't ask me how I know this.