Richie's Mk1 Restoration

[RichardT10829]

awesome. cheers for the replies guys ! it is like a pandora's box this thing so many little things you miss on a particular day only to discover later. Gantry should be ready this week to drop the tub onto (it has strong castor type wheels with breaks) once the axel is clear and the lump out i will be able to push it in and out the garage easier, i can pretty much push it now, even with all the weight in.

bought some boxes and plastic bags with labels, all to be designated. got some etch primer coming and some high build red oxide primer, when the tub is away i will pick a box of components at a time to clean up and prime, then place back into the bags idea being that they are "new" parts ready to go back on out of the bags.

[RichardT10829]

well managed to get most of the armout slithers off now, i noticed that on the gunners side of the carrier in the rear compartment all the rivet heads on the inside had been hammered flat ?

took the remnants away from the gunners port, and removed the glacis plate which i think i will replace as it is full of holes and the corner is ripped. the removal of the gunners plates were not without incident, i looked at the way the plates lie and i could swear looking at it the gunners armour was on top of the glacis, i cut the rivet heads off and began to ease it without success... my mate came along and plodded on as i worked at a bench nearby. next thing i recall is being struck in the face...........my pal bless his heart was using a crow bar to persuade the armour away from the angle bar, obviously under a great load it slipped and catapulted three feet before hitting me in the face OUCH !! my cheek is pretty bad the worst thing is today i got to go to a wedding ! and on monday i have an important meeting....luckily it had spent most of its inertia before striking me, that and i had my safety gear on, otherwise it could have been real nasty.

never mind an hour and half of frozen pea application has kept swelling to a minimum and i continued finishing my jobs i had set myself. pics of progress will follow once i get a chance to upload them.


so for those who are doing as i am remove the glacis before trying to pry the front armour off !!!!!
Rich

[RichardT10829]

well a bit more done, just ticking over really. i am having major trauma removing the drivers side brake drum, it is solid. i have removed the sprocket, removed the drive axle and outer bearing, i cant move the adjuster for the shoes it is solid. anyone any ideas of how to get the drum off without breaking the cast ? i am pretty stuck.

had a look through the tin cover at the cam plate which looks in a bad way, so not looking forward to that bit, nevertheless it will get done.

finally i may have found the serial number or part of it (unless it is wishfull thinking)

the actual number can anyone show me a picture on the top edge of the armour ? the "ghosting" that i can see contains a five but the number is towards where the dash pannel cover would be ? just wish i had photographed it ! i will try and put some acid on to reveal any stamping evidence.

the area i beleive i can see the numbers is as below


my armour has been cut straight down level with the dash pannel then it slopes in from the outer edge of the hull to the outer edge of the dash pannel.

[Lynn Eades]

Is this what you want? your location is correct.

[RichardT10829]

cheers Lynn. the number i can see is faint, i will try and recover it with acid, fingers crossed ! would any of those number have ben covered by the dash pannel top plate ?

cheers for the help by the way

[Lynn Eades]

I dont think the number would be covered, but I'm not sure.
I don't know if you've already done this, but try undoing the mounting bolts/ nuts for your bisector / brake adjuster. soak around them with CRC and try chasing them back out of the backing plate, as you try to draw the brake drum off. If there is a groove or shoulder in the drumthis may make it easier to get apart. Another thing you might try is bolting a bit of steel bar accross a couple of you sprocket mounting holes, so that you might be able to rotate the drum.
You can put a shouldered plug into the end of the axle tube to pull the hub against, being carefull not to do any damage to the thread of the axle tube. I would remove the outer bearing first.(I note you have) Then you can "woble " the hub as you pull it. It's a frustrating struggle, but be patient or you'll damage something, thats hard to get.
I would get hold of a good fitting tool to back of that brake adjuster. the force you put on it maybe enough to nudge the shoes into moving, and if you can back off the adjuster, it gives the shoes some where to go.I would do this first.
When removing rivets, note where the flattened ones, and the flush ones come from. there is always a reason. Something won't fit later.
When rebuilding the bisectors, be very careful at assembly. They can be assembled wrong and in that case will be ineffective.
If your cam plate is rusted on the working edge it can be built up with weld.

[RichardT10829]

thanks Lynn, will give it a go, once i have made significant progress i will post up some more pictures.