Handbrake replacement

[Lang]

Tony,

I presume you removed the whole thing as a unit to refurbish it with the bolt hanging there and forgot to put the bolt back when you bolted it all up again.

I assume you tried putting the hook upside down into the bottom of the hole then running the bolt in a semi circle until it stands upright. You might need to widen the hole a little to get it around the corner.

Best thing to do and only about 20 minute's work is to drop the universal. Unbolt the output shaft flange and pull the brake bracket unit off, drop the bolt in and put it all back.

I wouldn't do that but I am a bit rough. The hole is not critical with the hook so I would just get a drill of the bolt diameter and run through the hole and elongate it at the same angle you have the bolt jamming. By the looks of your photo it will not take much. You could also try a bar beside the bolt on the floor to prise it up, not so much that you permanantly bend the floor (but you could tap the lump back down again if you did). It is amazing how much movement you will get and as I said it does not look like you will need much.

Last choice is to just get another bolt, threaded a both ends and slide it up fom the bottom and put a lock nut and heavy washer on it in place of the hook.

The whole exercise is a basic waste of time because only one jeep in a thousand has a handbrake that could be described as working effectively. Your new modern brake linings are likely to be much too hard to work properly, despite perfect mechanical operation, anyway.

Keep at it you will get it back together.

Lang

[Little Jo]

I would like to thank, Lynn, Cameron,Mike, Jordan and Lang for their advice and idea's regarding to my "Transmission Brake" fitting problem. I had a good look at all the suggestions, then sat back had a good look at the problem and then solved it.

I made a simple surgical cut approx. 50mm x 20mm in the floor and then dropped the curved hooked bolt straight through, put the two springs on as the bolt came down and problem solved. The whole operation to put the brake back together, including the cutting out, took less then half an hour. No agro and no neighbours complaints about colourful language. I made a cover for the hole for any future use.

Thanks again guys for your input.

Little Jo
Tony Van Rhoda

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

Now you need to assign a field modification service number the the solution. The rest of us will now be looking to see if other Jeeps have a similar little hole. My bet is that your solution may have been done before, though with out the attention to being neat, shall we say with a gas axe, or even an axe.

Nice solution.

Cheers Phil

[Little Jo]

Phill

I think you are correct. I spent a long time on my back under the Jeep trying to put the transmission brake back together. But after a lot of frustration I gave up and put the problem to MLU members.

Their answers got me thinking and I solved my problem from a frustration into an easy job to fix. I can't understand why the original guys building the Jeep did not add another small inspection point take make the replacement of the hooked bolt easier to work on.

I used a long screw driver and pushed it from the bottom up through the holes to the floor and marked the spot directly in line with the holes that would take the bolt.

I then drilled a pilot hole from underneath to mark the exact spot. I then drilled a large hole from the top to take my electric jigsaw and cut the hole.

The hooked bolt just dropped through into place, I pulled the bolt upwards and placed the spring on the bolt lowered it a bit, put on the second spring and dropped the bolt through the last hole and put on the nut. so easy.

I then cut out a small cover and screwed it over the hole and painted it.

The transmission brake regularly needs to be removed, cleaned and lining replaced so why not make it easy to work on. I hope this will help others out there in MLU land.

Little Jo
Tony Van Rhoda

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi all - to quote Tony "then sat back had a good look at the problem and then solved it". What he didn't mention was where he was sitting when he came up with the solution. I have it on very good authority that the little boy's room was the location, a place where much inspiration is gained.

Bob

[motto (RIP)]

When Dodge started production of the WC62/63, 6x6, 1-1/2 ton Weapons Carrier the transmission handbrake was moved from the gearbox to the transfer case because of it (the t'fer case) being a two speed unit. This put the handbrake assembly directly under the seat area, towards the rear. To enable this to be done the area above the handbrake had to be given a distinct hump to clear the brake assembly and also an oblong hole was made so as to allow the 'J' bolt to be removed.
For the sake of standardisation these changes were made to the entire open cab production whether the cab was destined for 6x6 or 4x4. Many WC owners have wondered what the hole in the cab floor under the seats was there for as it serves no purpose on the 4x4.
In regards to the effectiveness (or not) of the Jeep handbrake. I have a friend who many years ago determined to get his to work 'as it should'. He carried out the adjustments and did in fact get the thing to work quite well. That evening we got in the vehicle to attend a club meeting and had only gone a couple of miles before flames were noticed coming up from under the floor around the levers. His response was quite impressive. We came to an immediate halt and as we exited the vehicle he was already removing his jumper which he then used to beat out the flames. My response was equally impressive, I couldn't stop laughing at the sight.
David

[Little Jo]

Hi Motto

It is interesting that Dodge worked out their problem and made a few alterations for future vehicles, Willys should have also looked at it. I can share the funny sight of the jumper coming off to beat out the flames, but I think I will install a new fire extinguisher as the old hand pump one is US and for effect only.

Little Jo
Tony Van Rhoda

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by motto

In regards to the effectiveness (or not) of the Jeep handbrake. I have a friend who many years ago determined to get his to work 'as it should'. He carried out the adjustments and did in fact get the thing to work quite well. That evening we got in the vehicle to attend a club meeting and had only gone a couple of miles before flames were noticed coming up from under the floor around the levers. His response was quite impressive. We came to an immediate halt and as we exited the vehicle he was already removing his jumper which he then used to beat out the flames. My response was equally impressive, I couldn't stop laughing at the sight.
David

I did the same thing years ago..adjusted up the handbrake band on my MB.... after a mile down the road, smoke poured out from underneath...it was just starting to flame .. panick ensued .

Beware Jeep owners

Mike

[Pete Ashby]

Originally Posted by motto

In regards to the effectiveness (or not) of the Jeep handbrake. I have a friend who many years ago determined to get his to work 'as it should'. He carried out the adjustments and did in fact get the thing to work quite well. That evening we got in the vehicle to attend a club meeting and had only gone a couple of miles before flames were noticed coming up from under the floor around the levers. His response was quite impressive. We came to an immediate halt and as we exited the vehicle he was already removing his jumper which he then used to beat out the flames. My response was equally impressive, I couldn't stop laughing at the sight.
David

This made me smile, been there done that, I can't think any one who has owned a jeep hasn't had a similar experience.
Basically its a design fault in that the activating cam levers on the band are not long enough to enable sufficient leverage to be applied by an out of the dash handle. It would be a whole lot better with a conventional hand brake lever through the floor as I think from memory GP’s had.
There are four actions that can be taken to help this poor design

1. Ensure the transfer case output shaft has an effective oil seal, obvious but often over looked resulting in oil collecting in he bottom of the brake drum on standing only to then contaminate the lining.

2. Ensure the drum is true so many originals are dished ridged or distorted by heat and contaminated linings this results in the already meagre braking surface being reduced by as much as 50%. Truing up on the lath is possible if the ware is not too bad, these days it should not be difficult to obtain a replacement.

3. Check the profile of the activating cam levers these can ware down so that the already poor mechanical advantage at this fulcrum point is further reduced. Take the brake apart and build up with the mig then grind to re-profile or alternately get new repro parts

4. Fit a new cable ensuring that the curve down the fire wall is a gradual as you can make it and that the path to the hand brake is a straight and direct a possible to minimise friction, is worthwhile running a little oil down the cable before fitting

Done collectively these actions will improve the overall effectiveness of the transmission brake from B#### woeful to just acceptable, here in the UK a lot of the jeeps that tow trailers have been converted to the M38 expanding shoe brake something I have not had experience with.
The jeep was undoubtedly revolutionary in terms of design and functionality but like all things in life it was not perfect and the hand brake is a case in point.

Pete

[Scott Bentley]

Originally Posted by Bob Moseley

I have it on very good authority that the little boy's room was the location, a place where much inspiration is gained.

Bob

Truer words have never been spoken

[Little Jo]

Hi Scotty

No truer word spoken, I have had my best thoughts come to me in the "LittleRoom" when problem solving. Having known Salesman Bob for over 30 years, I forgot he would have worked it out,,,,,

Little Jo
Tony Van Rhoda