Handbrake replacement

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi all - to quote Tony "then sat back had a good look at the problem and then solved it". What he didn't mention was where he was sitting when he came up with the solution. I have it on very good authority that the little boy's room was the location, a place where much inspiration is gained.

Bob

[motto]

When Dodge started production of the WC62/63, 6x6, 1-1/2 ton Weapons Carrier the transmission handbrake was moved from the gearbox to the transfer case because of it (the t'fer case) being a two speed unit. This put the handbrake assembly directly under the seat area, towards the rear. To enable this to be done the area above the handbrake had to be given a distinct hump to clear the brake assembly and also an oblong hole was made so as to allow the 'J' bolt to be removed.
For the sake of standardisation these changes were made to the entire open cab production whether the cab was destined for 6x6 or 4x4. Many WC owners have wondered what the hole in the cab floor under the seats was there for as it serves no purpose on the 4x4.
In regards to the effectiveness (or not) of the Jeep handbrake. I have a friend who many years ago determined to get his to work 'as it should'. He carried out the adjustments and did in fact get the thing to work quite well. That evening we got in the vehicle to attend a club meeting and had only gone a couple of miles before flames were noticed coming up from under the floor around the levers. His response was quite impressive. We came to an immediate halt and as we exited the vehicle he was already removing his jumper which he then used to beat out the flames. My response was equally impressive, I couldn't stop laughing at the sight.
David

[Little Jo]

Hi Motto

It is interesting that Dodge worked out their problem and made a few alterations for future vehicles, Willys should have also looked at it. I can share the funny sight of the jumper coming off to beat out the flames, but I think I will install a new fire extinguisher as the old hand pump one is US and for effect only.

Little Jo
Tony Van Rhoda

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by motto

In regards to the effectiveness (or not) of the Jeep handbrake. I have a friend who many years ago determined to get his to work 'as it should'. He carried out the adjustments and did in fact get the thing to work quite well. That evening we got in the vehicle to attend a club meeting and had only gone a couple of miles before flames were noticed coming up from under the floor around the levers. His response was quite impressive. We came to an immediate halt and as we exited the vehicle he was already removing his jumper which he then used to beat out the flames. My response was equally impressive, I couldn't stop laughing at the sight.
David

I did the same thing years ago..adjusted up the handbrake band on my MB.... after a mile down the road, smoke poured out from underneath...it was just starting to flame .. panick ensued .

Beware Jeep owners

Mike

[Pete Ashby]

Originally Posted by motto

In regards to the effectiveness (or not) of the Jeep handbrake. I have a friend who many years ago determined to get his to work 'as it should'. He carried out the adjustments and did in fact get the thing to work quite well. That evening we got in the vehicle to attend a club meeting and had only gone a couple of miles before flames were noticed coming up from under the floor around the levers. His response was quite impressive. We came to an immediate halt and as we exited the vehicle he was already removing his jumper which he then used to beat out the flames. My response was equally impressive, I couldn't stop laughing at the sight.
David

This made me smile, been there done that, I can't think any one who has owned a jeep hasn't had a similar experience.
Basically its a design fault in that the activating cam levers on the band are not long enough to enable sufficient leverage to be applied by an out of the dash handle. It would be a whole lot better with a conventional hand brake lever through the floor as I think from memory GP’s had.
There are four actions that can be taken to help this poor design

1. Ensure the transfer case output shaft has an effective oil seal, obvious but often over looked resulting in oil collecting in he bottom of the brake drum on standing only to then contaminate the lining.

2. Ensure the drum is true so many originals are dished ridged or distorted by heat and contaminated linings this results in the already meagre braking surface being reduced by as much as 50%. Truing up on the lath is possible if the ware is not too bad, these days it should not be difficult to obtain a replacement.

3. Check the profile of the activating cam levers these can ware down so that the already poor mechanical advantage at this fulcrum point is further reduced. Take the brake apart and build up with the mig then grind to re-profile or alternately get new repro parts

4. Fit a new cable ensuring that the curve down the fire wall is a gradual as you can make it and that the path to the hand brake is a straight and direct a possible to minimise friction, is worthwhile running a little oil down the cable before fitting

Done collectively these actions will improve the overall effectiveness of the transmission brake from B#### woeful to just acceptable, here in the UK a lot of the jeeps that tow trailers have been converted to the M38 expanding shoe brake something I have not had experience with.
The jeep was undoubtedly revolutionary in terms of design and functionality but like all things in life it was not perfect and the hand brake is a case in point.

Pete

[gary_bath_jr]

Here's a crazy idea, not sure if it will work as I do not have the parts to test, however, is it possible to insert the short end of the U up ffrom the bottom of the hole and then rotate the bolt and push it up from the bottom? Of course this will only work if the hole is not threaded and you have to put a nut on it once in place.

Gary

[Little Jo]

Originally Posted by gary_bath_jr

Here's a crazy idea, not sure if it will work as I do not have the parts to test, however, is it possible to insert the short end of the U up ffrom the bottom of the hole and then rotate the bolt and push it up from the bottom? Of course this will only work if the hole is not threaded and you have to put a nut on it once in place.

Gary

Hi Gary

Mate, I tried everything even your idea, but to no avail as there are 3 holes the bolt passes through and I must admit cutting the small hole in the floor worked a treat, too easy.

Little Jo
Tony Van Rhoda

[Yeo.NT]

Just a observation that I have come across while working on MLVWs and this applies to all MVs. Why are the park brakes kept being replaced when in theory they are designed to hold a object stationary. Since it isn't moving there shouldn't be any wear?

[Pete Ashby]

On transmission braked systems it will almost always be due to a combination of oil contamination and over adjustment to compensate. Inevitably this becomes a self fulfilling prophecy until the whole thing either catches fire or completely fails to operate.

[Scott Bentley]

Originally Posted by Bob Moseley

I have it on very good authority that the little boy's room was the location, a place where much inspiration is gained.

Bob

Truer words have never been spoken

[Little Jo]

Hi Scotty

No truer word spoken, I have had my best thoughts come to me in the "LittleRoom" when problem solving. Having known Salesman Bob for over 30 years, I forgot he would have worked it out,,,,,

Little Jo
Tony Van Rhoda