Richie's Mk1 Restoration

[Richard Farrant]

Originally Posted by RichardT10829

... all went well except one stud which i have sheered off in the block...

get the block drilled out now darnit....

You can often get the broken part out by welding a nut on the stud, the heat will expand the stud then when it cools may break its hold on the thread and unscrew, nothing to loose really.

[eddy8men]

i sheared a bolt trying to get a brake drum off a churchill gearbox today and ended up using the tried and tested nut and weld trick, trouble is everytime i tried to undo it the weld broke and the nut just came off the stud, i'll try again tomorrow when i've more time.

eddy

[RichardT10829]

my only concerns with this method in this case is the amount of heat i would need to put into the metal to make it work may cause issues with the casting.

I am going to pop up to a local engineering firm where i used to get my race stuff done so i am sure they can remove it for me before honing and cleaning the block

i was gobsmacked that the engine only has 3 mains !!!! my mini had three mains and the crank was half the length of the V8... under load the engines were prone to crank flex which funnily enough used to blow out the center and furthest main away from the clutch !!! and i even had an end cap let go on the rolling road... we used to fix this issue by milling the center main and putting a strap and ARP bolts on. although overkill i may do this with this engine too. i have seen the strap mods for the V8's before and when it comes to these things i am a bit of a belt and braces kinda geek.

[Ron Pier]

What about 'Spark Erosion' to remove the stud? There must be someone up norf! Ron

[RichardT10829]

Originally Posted by Ron Pier

What about 'Spark Erosion' to remove the stud? There must be someone up norf! Ron

Smiles, Rosalind Rebores, British engines, to name but a few... the block has to go in for honing and steam clean anyways so will get them to drill out the stud

[The Bedford Boys]

A turbo twinky mini engine can get over 250bhp richie (yes I'm a fellow mini nut ).... Lets see what you can get out of this bad boy

[ajmac]

Richie,
Are you fitting new pistons during the rebuild? If so what type are you using...I have to buy a set for mine, it's a 3.9L rather than the eariler spec 3.6L Flathead so requires the 3 3/16th pistons. I've spoken to a company in the US who do new sets with rings, just saving up to by them now!
Are you going to fit electronic ignition? I've got a little kit I built to use the points to drive a transister so that they never wear out, made quite a difference on a TR6, Spitfire and 3.5RV8 I tried it on. The plus side being that you don't have to damage any of the original parts and by just moving one wire can return the points to there original operation....I am going to have to solder up a new one as I just remembered that I lent it to a mate and he left it on his Series 3 when he sold it :-)

[RichardT10829]

Originally Posted by The Bedford Boys

A turbo twinky mini engine can get over 250bhp richie (yes I'm a fellow mini nut ).... Lets see what you can get out of this bad boy

ahh yes the K series twinky heads are good... Tom Fenton got excelent results with his.....that said Benross got some massive BHP out of the A series setup i beleive circa 240 was the count on the rollers running 28cc heads, phase 2 cam and a truck load of boost (circa 20psi)


great fun !

[Richard Farrant]

Originally Posted by RichardT10829

my only concerns with this method in this case is the amount of heat i would need to put into the metal to make it work may cause issues with the casting

The amount of heat from arc welding a nut on the stud is unlikely to harm the block, but will be enough to release the stud.

[hrpearce]

Where there is swing room like you have I drill a length of flat and weld it onto the stud, it's easier to get a good weld, then use a light hammer to tap the strap this also helps gently break the hold after the heat has done it's part.