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#1
02-05-11, 19:05
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i am wondering if it is a merc ?
anyways i have extracted all the studs now and anything else that bolts into the block.... all went well except one stud which i have sheered off in the block... guess iam stronger than i thought ! on a positive note at least it pulled now before i had gone through countless gaskets and frustration !  GIT !!!! next step is to get it chemically cleaned and the cam bearings pressed out (and new ones put in) get the block drilled out now darnit.... bring home, paint and pollish the faces etc prior to rebuild.
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is mos redintegro __5th Div___46th Div__ 1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI* Lower Hull No. 10131 War Department CT54508 (SOLD) 1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration). 1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration). 
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#2
02-05-11, 19:58
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Quote:
__________________
Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor
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#3
02-05-11, 21:23
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i sheared a bolt trying to get a brake drum off a churchill gearbox today and ended up using the tried and tested nut and weld trick, trouble is everytime i tried to undo it the weld broke and the nut just came off the stud, i'll try again tomorrow when i've more time.
eddy
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_______________________ 1941 mk1 mortar Carrier 1941 Mk1* Carrier 1942 Mk1* Carrier 1943 T16 Carrier 1945 Mk3 Dingo 1941 Mk3 Covenanter 1941 Mk4 Churchill AVRE (now sold) 1944 Mk6 Cromwell (now sold) 1952 Mk3 Centurion 1952 ARV Centurion 1952 ARV Centurion 1953 Mk3 Centurion (breaking)
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#4
02-05-11, 21:32
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my only concerns with this method in this case is the amount of heat i would need to put into the metal to make it work may cause issues with the casting.
I am going to pop up to a local engineering firm where i used to get my race stuff done so i am sure they can remove it for me before honing and cleaning the block i was gobsmacked that the engine only has 3 mains !!!! my mini had three mains and the crank was half the length of the V8... under load the engines were prone to crank flex which funnily enough used to blow out the center and furthest main away from the clutch !!! and i even had an end cap let go on the rolling road... we used to fix this issue by milling the center main and putting a strap and ARP bolts on. although overkill i may do this with this engine too. i have seen the strap mods for the V8's before and when it comes to these things i am a bit of a belt and braces kinda geek.
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is mos redintegro __5th Div___46th Div__ 1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI* Lower Hull No. 10131 War Department CT54508 (SOLD) 1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration). 1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration).
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#6
03-05-11, 10:05
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Quote:
__________________
is mos redintegro __5th Div___46th Div__ 1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI* Lower Hull No. 10131 War Department CT54508 (SOLD) 1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration). 1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration).
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#7
03-05-11, 13:04
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A turbo twinky mini engine can get over 250bhp richie (yes I'm a fellow mini nut
 ).... Lets see what you can get out of this bad boy 
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1967 Land Rover Plant Repair Vehicle 1941 Matchless G3L 194? Wiles Junior Trailer 1941 Morris Commercial CS8
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#8
03-05-11, 00:13
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Quote:
__________________
Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor
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#9
03-05-11, 01:52
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Where there is swing room like you have I drill a length of flat and weld it onto the stud, it's easier to get a good weld, then use a light hammer to tap the strap this also helps gently break the hold after the heat has done it's part.
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Robert Pearce.
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