T-16 S/N 5399 T.D. 97377 Restoration

[horsa]

Spent some time messing around with the temperature senders over the weekend. Toying with the idea of having two regular senders with one in each head. As opposed to one sender in one head and the cut-out switch unit in the other head. Wiring would visually appear to be the same but there would be a second wire inside the conduit back to the instrument panel. The two sending unit wires would be connected to a toggle switch hidden inside the instrument panel and then the selected position would continue to the temperature gauge.

This would allow one gauge to appear correct and still be able to check the true temperature on each side of the engine individually. Essentially the same way that there is one fuel gauge with a selector switch that gets the reading from each of the fuel tanks individually. Except the selector would be hidden in this case since it wouldn't be correct.

By original design, the temperature gauge only reads the left side of the engine. But if the right side gets to a pre-determined temperature, a switch opens and kills power to the temperature gauge which causes it to peg out. On researching this, two versions of the switch were produced. One that opens at 195 +/- 5 degrees and the other closer to 220 +/- 5 degrees. I'd rather know the real temperature if possible as opposed to having the gauge getting effectively disabled before I am really at a true overheated state. The gauge maxes out at 240 degrees. Still haven’t made this change as I’m experimenting with the senders, voltage reducers at the gauge, and the gauge itself since I don’t get an accurate reading when comparing it to a modern gauge with its own probe inside one of the other ports on the right side head.

Shot attached shows a temperature probe that I'd placed on my tool locker while working on the carrier the day. My tools seemed to be pretty hot before having worked on the engine so I wanted to see what the probe would indicate. Was surprised it was showing 150F at 2pm since I hadn't been running the engine yet and it was yet to become truly hot outside.

[horsa]

After seeing some of the recent tool discussions, I was curious about what other carrier owners had and used for working with their vehicles compared to the wartime tool issues.

Shot attached are modern track jacks. The one I prefer is the smaller and lighter type that is cranked with a large wrench in the center to tighten or loosen the tracks. The wartime originals are rare lever operated types and I don't know if I would want to use one since the modern pattern are safer and certainly cheaper in the event that something broke.

[andrew honychurch]

Wow, thats superb. What a collection, I would dearly love that . Tell me about the strange shaped wooden block, whats it for? Also, the item referred to as the brake rod adjusting gauge that I can find no operational reference to, what and where does it go?

[Ron Pier]

Andrew I think the wooden block you refer to is for the bottle jack to sit in. I'd really like to get one of those jacks and block for my carrier tool kit.

Ron

[horsa]

Yep, Ron is correct in that the wooden block is to stabilize the bottle jack. Added a low res copy of the page from the manual showing part of the tool layout since it has some references. Item K is also used with the jack. The tapered end goes into the pipe hole where the bogie spring suspension assembly mounts. And the part that protrudes is the jack mounting point for raising the carrier during track repairs in the field.

So far nobody has been able to tell us what the brake tool B was used for. It seems to be a guide for lining parts and bolts up based on the holes on each side.

The open-ended wrench I'd asked about, along with what maker provided T-16 hand tools during the war, is item AR. This should be a 3/16 x 1/4 size wrench in the USA standard pattern.

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by horsa

Spent some time messing around with the temperature senders over the weekend. Toying with the idea of having two regular senders with one in each head. As opposed to one sender in one head and the cut-out switch unit in the other head. Wiring would visually appear to be the same but there would be a second wire inside the conduit back to the instrument panel. The two sending unit wires would be connected to a toggle switch hidden inside the instrument panel and then the selected position would continue to the temperature gauge.

This would allow one gauge to appear correct and still be able to check the true temperature on each side of the engine individually. Essentially the same way that there is one fuel gauge with a selector switch that gets the reading from each of the fuel tanks individually. Except the selector would be hidden in this case since it wouldn't be correct.

By original design, the temperature gauge only reads the left side of the engine. But if the right side gets to a pre-determined temperature, a switch opens and kills power to the temperature gauge which causes it to peg out. On researching this, two versions of the switch were produced. One that opens at 195 +/- 5 degrees and the other closer to 220 +/- 5 degrees. I'd rather know the real temperature if possible as opposed to having the gauge getting effectively disabled before I am really at a true overheated state. The gauge maxes out at 240 degrees. Still haven’t made this change as I’m experimenting with the senders, voltage reducers at the gauge, and the gauge itself since I don’t get an accurate reading when comparing it to a modern gauge with its own probe inside one of the other ports on the right side head.

Shot attached shows a temperature probe that I'd placed on my tool locker while working on the carrier the day. My tools seemed to be pretty hot before having worked on the engine so I wanted to see what the probe would indicate. Was surprised it was showing 150F at 2pm since I hadn't been running the engine yet and it was yet to become truly hot outside.

+

Dave
To calibrate that Cooper Thermometer,which is a good one, place probe in can of boiling water..and read..it should read 212F..if not hold dial with one hand so it won't turn,and with a little wrench..about 5/16th ..turn the nut on the back where the probe meets the dial..
That will adjust the dial hand to 212F ..

I am a refrigeration mechanic and with all the fancy thermometers now a days .I still like that Cooper one..I have a few of them kicking around..
rugged and accurate and adjustable..
Good deal.

[horsa]

Hey Alex,

The reading on that gauge was correct for being laid out in the direct sun. Our offical temps this past weekend which are measured in the shade were 112F. The metal on the carriers, and on hand tools, really soak in the heat if left out in the sun very long.