New Hampshire CMP Barn 2011- 2012 HUP Overhaul

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Bob

Though all the my normal 216 engines and carbs have worked well with the hand throttle cable end just going through the hole on the throttle linkage see picture below. You will also note that the washer on the throttle linkage has been brazed to lock its position. This picture is of the side of the HUPs original 216 engine before the overhaul started.

But on the 261 Carb the cable is in just enough different position that it would stick requiring a very stiff return spring that was annoying to drive with, particularly as the throttle/gas peddle now actually is used to regulate speed instead of being an on or off switch.

Using the lever arm which is moved when the choke is out proved to be a simple way to set the idle speed up.

Cheers Phil

Phil...Tell me a story about the gear clamps..two..that around the base of the carb where it joins the manifold..Holding the spacer block together and in place..??and the 1/2" spacer..and the extra thick gasket ..was the carb sitting too low..??
or is that where the fuel injection hooks in..??
New trick..???

Do tell..

[Bob Carriere]

Now that I am using a Carter YF I am not sure how I will connect the manual throttle........ will figure it out and post pictures.

Bob

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Alex

The insulating spacer broke in half while cleaning water out of the carb on the side of the road one day. Didn't have a spare with me so painted the broken ends with Permatex and put a hose clamp on it to hold it till it hardened, long story short I've been driving it that way for probably 15-20 years.

Cheers Phil

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Alex

The insulating spacer broke in half while cleaning water out of the carb on the side of the road one day. Didn't have a spare with me so painted the broken ends with Permatex and put a hose clamp on it to hold it till it hardened, long story short I've been driving it that way for probably 15-20 years.

Cheers Phil

When you know what you are doing..what you need..and how to fix it ,a fix is usually what ever you have in the tool box..under the seat or in the glove box..
If you can cobble up a fix and it works well,if some times pay to leave it..although I would always have a new one stashed in the dash somewhere...
Run'er til she breaks again..and repeat the process..
True grit..!!

[motto]

Hi Phil.
I was intrigued by your experience with the oil pressure readings on your 216. From my observations over many years these engines are unlike any other in the way the lubrication system works. Oil pressure doesn't seem to mean very much.

From my understanding of it, if it wasn't for the distribution valve there would be little or no pressure at all. It's function is virtually that of a relief valve with the oil that passes through the valve being 'dumped' back into the sump via the six big end supply nozzles. Meanwhile the back pressure it creates pushes oil to the main bearings, camshaft bearings and rocker gear. In view of the foregoing I would tend to think that perhaps the value of the distribution valve spring would have a greater effect on oil pressure than engine condition.

I'm not surprised that the oil pressure showed no change when you shut off the flow to the filter as the Military Senior Filter is intended to operate on the bypass principle and has its own built in restriction. The oil has to pass through a tiny hole in the centre tube to exit the filter.

Just a few thoughts on the matter in case you were still mulling things over.

David

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Alex

...
If you can cobble up a fix and it works well,if some times pay to leave it..although I would always have a new one stashed in the dash somewhere...
Run'er til she breaks again..and repeat the process..
True grit..!!
[/QUOTE]

Strangely I found a source for these insulators and the one for the 235 engine with a couple of days of your response.

http://www.classicparts.com/1937-54-...ctinfo/81-211/ http://www.classicparts.com/1954-62-...ctinfo/81-212/

Has anybody used this source http://www.classicparts.com/ if so how did they seem?

Cheers Phil

[Phil Waterman]

Hi All

Well my progress on the HUP seems to have slowed to a visual stop. Body and parts work has progressed to the point where I have a lot of painting to do and it just has not been practical to paint even though I have set the shop up with flow through ventilation. But the real problem is that to paint I have to move the other two trucks out side an the never just has not cooperated to park them out side for a week while I paint.

Progress -

Been running the rebuilt engine in on the test stand, it starts and runs nicely and will idle all the way down to 400 RPM. Tone of the engine is nice and smooth at all speeds. Haven't got the low range tachometer yet but did pick up a (small diameter) tach on sale, which is a nice add to the test stand. Next step on test stand is to find an oil pressure gauge which is full sweep at like 60. But before I do I'm going to hitch all the different pressure gauges I have up to a single pressure source and see if they all read accurately, or at least agree.


Running engines in on the test stand during the winter has some real advantages it heats the shop up nicely. (The exhaust hard piped out of the building plus I've got good digital read CO2 alarm in the shop.)

Added a second temperature gauge to the test stand so that I now can read both rear of the block and at the water pump to see if the block is evenly cooled, which it is. The forward water pump location for the sensor is also a good location to consider for temperature sensor if you are using a different head which doesn't have the large fitting hole for the steam relief and sensor fitting.


List of minor stuff to fix on the engine as result of test running, minor coolant leaks at rear drain cock, thermostat housing, minor oil leak side oil cover though to really fix that one I'll have to remove the head and get the block and head truly aligned. Yup I missed these on assembly.


More progress to come soon, I hope.

Cheers Phil

[Grant Bowker]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Alex, Strangely I found a source for these insulators and the one for the 235 engine with a couple of days of your response.

http://www.classicparts.com/1937-54-...ctinfo/81-211/ http://www.classicparts.com/1954-62-...ctinfo/81-212/

Has anybody used this source http://www.classicparts.com/ if so how did they seem?

Cheers Phil

I don't have experience with the insulators from Classic Parts but I suspect that like many repro parts, all the standard vendors source from the same actual part maker.
Tim Tygart www.obschevy.com Jimmy Carter www.oldchevytrucks.com Larrowe www.34-chevy.com and Chevs of the 40s www.chevsofthe40s.com all sell insulators that look like the ones Classic Parts is selling. I sourced an insulator for Bob from one of the 4 I listed and it seems satisfactory.

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Phil

Got my spacer from Carter....Jimmy for his friends. I suspect they all come form the same offshore suppliers and retailed by all the Chevy parts source.

Mine worked fine..... but I have to make sure I get the large bore and bolt size.... the 261 is 2 15/16 for the bolts and the large throat.

On the oil fog...... I lost my dip stick from the diesel MF Perkins engine and oil was spewing out of the dipstick tube like you would not believe. Called the dealer for a replacement and expressed my concern that the engine was probably gettign serious blow by and might need rebuilding.... he re-assured me that on those little 4 cylinder long stoke engines the air / oil fog following around inside the crankcase was standard and normal and very much part of the cooling and lub of the bottom end... so you concept of a heavy oil fog churned up by the rotating crank is well founded.

Felt like a fool for loosing the dip stick ... apparently I was the second one he sold in a week..... so did not feel so bad.....

Bob