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[Jacques Reed]

Here's a few photos of the 20 year project. The little boy in the cab is now a 26 year old 737 pilot! Chassis is awaiting installation of rebuilt engine hence no cowl. I did not want to cut the crossmember at the top front of the cowl as is often done for expediency. For reliability, the engine is updated with 8BA crank and rods, 8BA valves, new inserts, alloy cam gear, original Johnson adjustable tappets. Using modern Airtex fuel pump. Still has original PCV system. Engine builder recommended using 8BA headbolts instead of studs as the Chinese made ones from a well known Ford parts company that I supplied him with stripped during torquing. Studs did not fully extend through nuts. Prefer look of studs, but, oh well. Toolbox was mint condition, unlike most. Seat cushion original but, surprise, surprise, I just learnt a fellow a few doors up the street is a retired canvas specialist and is currently making 2 replicas of it for me. Hope you find these interesting. I have hundreds of photos taken digital, and pre-digital and scanned documenting the resto. Helps when you come back to it after a long hiatus.

[Keith Webb]

The engine is looking good, was a bare block last time I saw it. Interesting to hear about the head studs.

Is the coil a newly manufactured one?

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Keith, Long time no see! The coil is a NOS one I got from a fellow Early Ford V8 Club member a few years ago. Since then, and getting a bit more wiser on NOS parts, especially coils and condensers, I think I will replace it with a newly made one as I did with the Airtex fuel pump (modern rubber diaphragm for modern fuels). I will see how it performs once the engine is installed and running. There will be a lot of engine hours on the "test bed" before it goes out on the road. Again, for reliability, I think a newly manufactured one will be the go on the road. I put the engine temporarily back together on the stand also to make sure everything went back OK. A lot easier than finding out something isn't mating up while standing on your head in the engine compartment. Was worth it to get spark plug leads and conduits correct, and found that the original carby fuel line did not mate up to the new fuel pump by just a few mm. Was a lot easier making one up and fitting it on the stand. Will strip off intake manifold and block and use my lifting beam on the valve gallery top to put short block back into chassis. Brgds Jacques

[Private_collector]

Jacques,

Your attention to detail is fabulous.

Keep the photos coming.....and welcome aboard

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Tony, Thanks for your kind comments. I have attached the reverse engineered drawings I made based on the photos and sketches that I was given awhile back. Was wondering how accurate they are based on yours? Info supplier never got back to me on how the base attaches at the rear of the holder hence I punted that there is a tab there. Also never got the thickness of the sheet metal. Brgds Jacques

[Private_collector]

Jacques,
PB150006.JPG PB150005.JPG
Your drawings look virtually identical to my parts. Since I sent you the private message, it has started raining again, so I will have to check & photograph tomorrow. In the meantime, this is two photos I took of my battery holder assembly when I first got it. The box frame has been very badly treated in past, so my knocking it flat won't harm it any further. The two securing bolts have already been removed, and are in quite good shape. Good enough to be reused, and would be acceptable starting point for taking patterns off, if you don't have suitable replacements.

What is the part shown in your first diagram? It doesn't look familiar to me. Is it to show location of the box frame in relation to the base plate?

The only thing I see missing from your drawings are the exact location of the three rivet holes where the two battery securing bolts attach the battery box sides. I can supply that information , once I get a good look at mine. Mind you, you can't get them too far away from where they need to be, if you go off your plans!

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Tony, Thanks again for the info. The first drawing is what I reckon the base of the holder looks like and the spacing of the rivets that attach it to the sides and base plate. I assumed it is a separate piece based on the rivets on the tabs on the sides, or is it riveted directly to the base plate? (You can see I haven't been a draughtsman for 45 years-forgot to label the drawing, fail!)
The dimensions and position of the rivet holes that hold the battery securing bolts would be most appreciated. Again my previous source did not supply them, but in fairness, he was not a "Blitz" restorer. He supplied numerous photos which helped greatly and have attached a couple more here. The one of the front corner may be helpful for the little toe plate that keeps the battery in.
And I am right for the base plate dimensions. Mine is all there and in good condition. Often they are not from years of acid spllls from the battery so thanks for asking.
Brgds,
Jacques

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Jacques Reed

Seat cushion original but, surprise, surprise, I just learnt a fellow a few doors up the street is a retired canvas specialist and is currently making 2 replicas of it for me.

Got the two new replica covers back last night from my retired canvas specialist neighbor. Very happy with the results as per the photos. He even made his own canvas piping for the covers. Had to make a slight concession on eyelet size and colour based on availability of materials but very close to original style of fabrication as shown on original on the right photo. Now just need some khaki lacing to close them up. He's using his contacts to find some for me.
Brgds,

[Keith Webb]

Has he used the original inner spring base, or foam? And is he open to making more of these?

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Keith, He used my original spring base cushions. A bit ratty they were, but now covered over.
Yes, I canvassed him (no pun intended) about making up some more as I am sure they would be in demand.
At this stage he isn't keen to produce any more as he is retired but if I get a big response from this post I will go back to him to reconsider it. Maybe I could be his "apprentice" and at least do the cutting out for him to keep the costs down. He charged me $90 each which I consider very fair in view of the making of the original pattern from my sample and all the cutting and sewing, not counting sourcing the canvas, eyelets, and turn post grommets.
Brgds

[Keith Webb]

Hopefully we can convince him. I have my own canvas (WW2 type) and a pair of inner spring bases, so hopefully he can do them. I also have a pair of NOS Canadian seat covers courtesy of Swiss Chris but for some reason the seat part only has the top part.

I wonder whether we can source parts to make the inner spring section, which is so important in getting a CMP restoration right.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

I wonder whether we can source parts to make the inner spring section, which is so important in getting a CMP restoration right.

This is something I started to investigate a while back. Got some leads but am yet to follow up. Will make a point of doing so next week.

I agree they're important for CMP resto, not just appearance but also comfort and driveability, esp. over uneven ground. They're virtually integral to the suspension.

[Jacques Reed]

Keith,
This might be a source of seat cushion springs to have manufactured in Melbourne:

I used a company in Dandenong to make the brake adjuster cam springs many years ago. They will wind any type, or size, of coil spring given a sample. He also made a brake master cylinder rod return spring to my sample.

If they are still in business, they were called The Spring Shop and were located at 27A Amberley Cres Dandenong 3175 Ph. 9794-9399.
They were a small operation and had a minimum $20 charge in those days so they were happy to do one-off or small run jobs.