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#2
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http://www.speedprint.com/deves50/headtorque.php
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk: |
#3
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Hi Svenn
You can get new head bolts from sources like http://www.americanclassic.com/asp/d...ype=to&exyear= Though I have never had to buy new ones, just suggest it as a price gauge. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#4
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Thanks guys.
I need to fabricate the two special head bolts for the oil filter bracket so stainless is not an option. Cheers Svenn |
#5
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Hi Svenn
Understand what your doing now making up these critters. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#6
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Yes Phil- thanks for the picture!! May I use it on the www in my search for these bolts?
Cheers Svenn Last edited by Svenn Ryen; 14-01-13 at 20:12. |
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Did you find these bolts? do you have a source I'm looking for some Much regards Pieter Bergman |
#8
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I made up a couple in a few minutes.
Put two nuts on the filter bracket bolt and sit them on top of the head bolt. Line up the 3 flats (lay horizontally in a vice is a good way to hold them while you tack) and either braze or weld the head bolt and two nuts together. Remove bracket bolt, dress on sander and there you have it. Lang Last edited by Lang; 04-01-18 at 11:28. |
#9
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Would these do the job?
http://jeep-dodge-gmc.com/smi/description/gmc/GM2104213 They are GMC CCKW. I seem to remember that some of the Chev headbolts are the same as CCKW, but can't remember if they are the short or the long ones. Alex
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Chevrolet C8 cab 11 FFW BSA Folding Bicycle Last edited by Alex van de Wetering; 04-01-18 at 22:21. |
#11
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Pieter
You do not heat the shank of the bolt. If you are brazing or gas welding probably a good idea to do the two nuts first away from the head bolt then wrap the shank in a wet cloth to do the last join. If you MIG, TIG or stick weld you will still be able to hold the bolt in your hand. Lang Last edited by Lang; 05-01-18 at 01:02. |
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Hi Phil I found them at an auction |
#13
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Hi Pieter
Any chance of a second set? Or part number to try and search under? Im needing a pair as well. Thanks
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#14
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Sorry there was only one pair
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#15
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Could you please note down or do a simple sketch of the dimensions of the bolts?
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#16
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At the recent OMVA Acton meeting/swapmeet, Gord Yeo presented the Hammond barn with two similar bolts. On first glance they look close but on measuring, there are issues. In the attached photo, the bolts from Gord are the upper ones. When held up against a variety of stovebolt engines (216, 235 and 261) they are too short to clamp the head. so they don't appear to be suitable for use on CMP engines (original or retrofitted). The next question is, what do they fit? I understood Gord to say some of the batch he got had green paint suggesting MV use. When compared to our rusting Ford V8, the Ford studs were 7/16 rather than 1/2 and the segment of the "special" bolt that would clamp the head is in-between the lengths of studs in the Ford block. Ideas about what they were meant to fit are welcome.
The lower bolts in the image came with my C15A project but were not in the 261 engine it came with so I don't guarantee they will fit. When held up against a variety of stovebolt engines (216, 235 and 261) they appear to be a suitable length for securing the cylinder head. But, the elongated hex between the threaded sections isn't long enough to hold the oil filter mounting plate above the cylinder heads I held it up to. The filter mounting plate I have has a profile on the surface that would mount to the head that requires it to sit above the head rather than curving to follow the shape of the side of the head. It was another loose piece so no guarantee it was an original CMP part either. I will try to find the filter plate to get an image so people can comment. It looks like there were a variety of these two ended bolts made. Based on overall length, my guess is that the lower bolt / stud (with red paint) is part number 5819675 used after serial no. 384--21499. Last edited by Grant Bowker; 09-04-18 at 03:04. |
#17
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The attached image is of a trial done to see whether I thought 2 bolts could be welded head-to-head to make a replica of the specialized bolt. The actual parts were scrap spring u-bolts. For a finished product I would have used a belt grinder rather than an angle grinder for a flatter finish on the weld. The weld area was well grooved for penetration, the weld seems strong although not formally tested and the heat was not enough to even slightly loosen the rust bond of the nuts on the shaft so I doubt it did any harm to the properties of the metal.
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