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Old 16-02-13, 11:08
Private_collector's Avatar
Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default Plan for tomorrow

Bought the remainder of bolts needed to finish assembly and installation of pintle. Some parts yet to be painted. Thats tomorrow job #1.

Bumper brackets are also to be painted, thats tomorrow job #2.
inspection lamp assembled 2.jpg inspection lamp assembled 1.jpg
The new wiring for inspection light arrived wednesday, and I finished reassembly last night. I managed to knock a few bits of paint off, while man-handling to 'encourage' two parts to come together, so it will need another lick of paint tomorrow as well.......job #3!

The last pair of Ford engine mounts arrived yesterday. These were needed for the cab floor front mounting positions. I put those through the brackets this afternoon, primarily so I don't lose them. Never did find the two bushes for for'd of front spring sets. They're here somewhere..........I think!?!?

Currently searching internet for 3/4 UNF csatle nuts to go on tie rod ends. Original ones are OK, but not good enough to be re-used.

Finally, I have found this set of radiator hoses for sale.
radiator hose set.jpg
Are these the style that were original? I have two conflicting images in two manuals, showing this type in one and a solid metal pipe style in other. Grrrrr!
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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Old 16-02-13, 11:36
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Keith Webb Keith Webb is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: HIGHTON VIC
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Default Front ends

To explain a little more about the front ends, the 6" steering ends were not introduced until well into cab 13 production, so all the earlier 3 ton trucks had the light front end and steering box.
So this configuration is probably correct for your truck.
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42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains
42 FGT No9 (Aust)
42 F15
Keith Webb
Macleod, Victoria Australia
Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook
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  #3  
Old 16-02-13, 11:39
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default Thanks Keith

Cheers Keith, I will get some sleep tonight after all.

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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #4  
Old 16-02-13, 15:29
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Tony Wheeler Tony Wheeler is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Yarra Junction VIC
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Private_collector View Post
I have found this set of radiator hoses for sale. Are these the style that were original? I have two conflicting images in two manuals, showing this type in one and a solid metal pipe style in other.
I've always assumed the metal pipe was used on all CMPs, as a means to save rubber during the war, and that any full-length rubber hoses found on CMPs are post-war replacement parts, like those seen in pic 1 (purchased 1973).

I've noticed the Army retained the metal pipe in post war years. They're still present on my FGTs which would have been disposed of in the '60s.

I'm planning to use metal pipes on mine because they look more genuine to me, but unless someone knows of a source I shall have to get some made up. They need to be mandrel bent, as opposed to press bending done by exhaust shops, which squashes the inside of the bend (looks wrong and would probably cause problems fitting hose clamps). Some specialist exhaust shops can do mandrel bending to maximize gas flow (eg. for turbos) and various engineering works, eg. bullbar manufacturers. I made enquiries recently and was quoted around $200 set up cost, plus material and labour at around $20 per unit. For the moment I've just used straight exhaust pipe with suitable rubber sections (two bends from a Falcon radiator hose) as seen in pic 2.

Perhaps I'm wrong Tony, ie. full-length rubber WAS used on some CMPs. However I much prefer the look of the metal ones myself. The two small rubber sections in your pic look right, ie. rough surface texture and spiral moulding marks. Not sure about the red stripe though. Hose clamps look right, ie. pre-worm drive type.

I guess it depends how obsessive you are about appearance! I'd be interested to know what others have used.
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