Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Tony

Enjoy following your restoration.

ON the front pins that are hard to remove.... if memory serves me right there is fine thread hole on the centre..... find a suitable....odd size something like 7/16 fine thread and build yourself a puller using the other four bolt holes on the cap...... may need some heat to free it up.... but it will come out.

On the large front hub seal.... there are still being made for commercial application...... do not bother reading the part numbers.... a good bearing/seal shop will have access to a search engine on their computer and they will match dimension ID/OD. Last time I got some the part guy was apologetic for only having one in stock... the second one was there in 48 hours....... all for $19.95 each..... but will be more down under with shipping. Too bad they welded that backing plate... ridiculous really and will give you a headache.
Wonder if you will find stripped bolt holes to account to the welding.

Good luck.

Bob

[Cameron Reed]

Hi Tony
The seal I used in mine was a Chicago Rawhide no 58741, it was the closest my bearing man could come up with only difference was it is a little thinner,
I think it is 3/8" wide as against 1/2". Probaly worked better for me because the spindle was worn quite wide where the old leather seal ran and i could put the new one in a little deeper to be back on the good part on the spindle. They are a modern type twin lip rubber seal.

As for pulling the swivel housing pins out I just used a 1/2" socket with the id bigger than the pin dia and a 1/2" unf bolt (mine were tapped 1/2"nf, had to run a tap down them to clean them up) place socket over and screw bolt down into pin and continue to tighten. The thread is only short so with an assortment of washers and spacers you'll get there works well up until the pin starts to turn, but then you should be able to get it out

[Bob Carriere]

We built ours out of flat plate stock using the existing holes with bolts.... but could not find a picture of it.

Re-installing the NEW Departure bearings we used a large threaded rod and large washers..... worked very easy.....

Bob C.

[Private_collector]

Hello Cameron & Bob.

I had the pivot pin problem again today, on the passenger side. With this one, I think I see what the cause of both sides sticking actually is. I thought it strange that both of the upper pins have played up and not the bottom. Simple answer when I took a close look (with my spectacles on). Both of the caps had been loosened off as if about to pull the pins out, then left loose so water could get under and sieze the pins in place. I had no luck with this one today either. Had made a puller from a chunk of pipe with a nice thick bit of steel across the top. I keep all bolts I replace with new, so there is always something around to fit most sizes. In this attempt the steel puller didnt deform like last weekends thinner steel did, BUT what I thought was the strain on the pin itself, was actually the bolt I inserted hitting bottom of the pin and starting to strip thread from the pin as well as the bolt. Job well done! This is turning into a trilogy in four parts! I'll let this little debarcle sit dormant for a while, and do other axle/diff stuff.

Regarding the welded brake backing plate, negative on the stripped threads! They are all good. I made a point of looking at each one today. Its gonna have to come off one way or another, and I dont have the patience (or steadyness) to sit and whittle away at the weld lines with a die grinder. My big angle grinder is too big to get into that space, and my small one is too small to reach in there. Unlike Goldie Locks, I dont have one that is Juuuust right. On the other hand, if I have a replacement plate, then I can afford to butcher this one from the wheel hub side and cut it away. Earlier in the week I started making enquiries to buy a replacement plate. No luck so far, but not given up hope yet. I forgot to check the welded plate to see if it is stamped RF or LF. The left side one was stamped RF.

I have an ever growing list of bearings, cups, and seals that I want to replace. With removal of the passenger side steering assembly today, I can now see another seal in the distal end of that axle tube. And it looks totally u/s. What a surprise!

Cameron, I'll take down that seal number and see the bearing shop guys on Tuesday........with a fair old list! Thanks for the heads-up. That seal should suit me well also. Same problem as you, maybe a little less severe.

[Private_collector]

Chicago Rawhide (CR) are owned by SKF, and the SKF seals website says:

In response to the demands of an increasingly competitive global marketplace, and to customer requests for integrated solutions, the Chicago Rawhide brand, predominantly known as CR, has transitioned to SKF.The transition is part of the company’s goal to create one global, universally recognized SKF brand. The products, employees and facility locations remain unchanged, assuring customers the same high level of quality and service they have enjoyed previously.

So the CR seals may now be ceased production.

SKF = same number, different Co.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Chicago Rawhide (CR) are owned by SKF, and the SKF seals website says:

In response to the demands of an increasingly competitive global marketplace, and to customer requests for integrated solutions, the Chicago Rawhide brand, predominantly known as CR, has transitioned to SKF.The transition is part of the company’s goal to create one global, universally recognized SKF brand. The products, employees and facility locations remain unchanged, assuring customers the same high level of quality and service they have enjoyed previously.

So the CR seals may now be ceased production.

SKF = same number, different Co.

Tony,

SKF acquired Chicago Rawhide many years ago. CR seals are not ceased production, it is merely a rebranding of well-known line of products. If I am correct, the numbers are still the same, except for the "CR" bit. Any authorised SKF distributor should be able to help you out.

Hanno

[Private_collector]

Yeah, thats what I meant.

Look for SKF with same no. as the CR.