Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Originally Posted by Richard Farrant

Hope your hand is alright, a hazard of the occupation, I can vouch for that

Hello Richard. No great harm done.

A slight injury like this, is a good reminder that it's best to call for assistance in heavy lifting.
In this case, not that heavy, but bloody ackward to move around in the manner I wanted.

[Private_collector]

Phil,

I don't believe either of the ends had a keeper on there when I removed originally.
You don't meen the thick washer do you? What does it look like?

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

Not sure of how yours was put together but below is a picture of type mine has, the other version I've seen is a big castle nut with pin.

The first photo shows the bent tab keeper, 2nd shows the nut and pin, 3rd and 4th show how close I came to loosing a wheel after a keeper failed.

Cheers Phil

[Phil Waterman]

Hi All

Working alone, figuring out how to lift and position awkward and heavy parts, here is the rigging for the front hub.

Shown here is the entire hub end hanging from engine hoist bar of chain fall.

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

Phil,

Your photos almost sent me scurrying off to the workshop with a flashlight, because I couldn't remember seeing large castle nuts, and certainly didn't take any locking plates off. Then I checked through all the billions of photos I have taken, and saw the castle nut type is what I have.

I do like your method of installing the steering ends.
New U Bolts 1.jpg New U Bolts 2.jpg
I can do the same, because I bought new U bolts for the rear axle this afternoon. What has that got to do with easily installing the steering ends? Simple. Until I can permanantly attach the rear axle to springs, I won't trust the chassis not to fall, so my engine crane is attached to the pintle spring with a chain, just in case something slips. Once I get the U bolts painted and installed, then I can remove the engine crane, freeing it up to help reassemble front axle bits!

[Private_collector]

This afternoon I completed a 4 hour round trip to retrieve a large square plastic container, which I intend to use for stripping rust and other contaminants off ferous metal parts, in conjunction with caustic soda. The plastic 'cube' container is one of those which are often seen on heavy haulage vehicles. It sits in a metal cage framework designed to allow stackability and a degree of strength. I believe the approximate volume, when full, would be somewhere in the vicinity of 1000L........ish. While I certainly won't be filling the entire container, I want to have sufficient volume to immerse something the size of a gearbox case.
Some time ago, I was very impressed with what I could achieve when using a bath of caustic soda and electrolosis (or is it electrolysis?). I want to incorporate an electric charge in the use of the newly acquired tank, but have "LMF" when it comes to having a battery charger running when I am not able to closely monitor it myself. In fact, as we run almost solely off a stand-alone solar electric system, I wouldn't be comfortable with that scenario at all.

So here's my query; I have been giving thought to a somewhat unusual idea. We run the house on a solar collection system, so why not power the cleaning tank with a similar principal? Now, I don't know very much about solar panels, so I can't even be sure if the amperage would be sufficient. A supply of 2.5 to 3 amps should do, at least that was the current I used when playing with the battery charger all those months ago. Any higher amperage and the charger would cycle off & on, falsely detecting a high current return to the unit.

Does anyone have sufficient knowledge to offer some guidance as to whether this idea has legs or should be forgotten about?

All assistance appreciated,

[Lynn Eades]

1ml. is a gram, is a cc., when it comes to water (sg =1.0). so....
100mm x 100mm x 100mm is equal to 1 litre.......
which leads on to;
1 metre x 1 metre x 1 metre is equal to 1000 litres which is equal to 1 ton of water. Example 8700 litres is 8.7 metric tons...... Don't you just love metrics!..(sometimes anyway)
Or theres......
1 gallon of water equals 10 lb, and there are 6 1/4 gallons to the cubic foot...... etc.

Why cant you use a small solar panel?. More panel = more voltage = more hydrogen = bigger bang! I guess you would want a switch well away from the tank.
Just set it up at the other end of the paddock, from the house. (or shed at least) Be careful!!
I am still enjoying your thread (as it seems, are many others) keep it going.

You should be able to check out solar panels on the net. This country is full of them.

[Tim Lovelock]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

This afternoon I completed a 4 hour round trip to retrieve a large square plastic container, which I intend to use for stripping rust and other contaminants off ferous metal parts, in conjunction with caustic soda. The plastic 'cube' container is one of those which are often seen on heavy haulage vehicles. It sits in a metal cage framework designed to allow stackability and a degree of strength. I believe the approximate volume, when full, would be somewhere in the vicinity of 1000L........ish. While I certainly won't be filling the entire container, I want to have sufficient volume to immerse something the size of a gearbox case.
Some time ago, I was very impressed with what I could achieve when using a bath of caustic soda and electrolosis (or is it electrolysis?). I want to incorporate an electric charge in the use of the newly acquired tank, but have "LMF" when it comes to having a battery charger running when I am not able to closely monitor it myself. In fact, as we run almost solely off a stand-alone solar electric system, I wouldn't be comfortable with that scenario at all.

So here's my query; I have been giving thought to a somewhat unusual idea. We run the house on a solar collection system, so why not power the cleaning tank with a similar principal? Now, I don't know very much about solar panels, so I can't even be sure if the amperage would be sufficient. A supply of 2.5 to 3 amps should do, at least that was the current I used when playing with the battery charger all those months ago. Any higher amperage and the charger would cycle off & on, falsely detecting a high current return to the unit.

Does anyone have sufficient knowledge to offer some guidance as to whether this idea has legs or should be forgotten about?

All assistance appreciated,

Hi Tony, I love the method of electrolysis to remove rust etc. I guess as you may have discovered it is a very quick method with some items. I've cleaned up tools in as little as 1/2 an hour.
The way I did it was to connect a car battery to the item and water +/- etc. then connect the charger to the battery.
So would connecting a solar panel to a battery do the same as the charger in keeping power up to the battery.
But I'm not an electrician or auto elec, I discovered electrolysis on the Internet. I'm sure there are wiser heads out there that could answer your enquiry.
Cheers Tim