Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Lynn Eades]

Tony, go to Vanpelt sales. There is a lot of info on their site.
Yes you can use an 8BA block crank and rods, and dress it with the earlier bits.
Yes water pumps bolt on.
You could go on the Ford Barn forum as well. Good info on distributors, carbs etc, along with the mechanicals.

Hi Terry.

[Private_collector]

Hi Guys, and thanks for the responses.

David, I did manage to get a couple of bags of washing soda, a couple of weeks ago. Well, to be entirely honest, my wife actually looked and bought it for me, from the local IGA supermarket. From memory, I believe it is Lectric brand. There's a little coincidence. It'll have a 'lectric' current through it some time soon, I hope.

Terry, the new phase you speak of will certainly be interesting, that's for sure. At least for me, as I stumble my way through all the pitfalls and rewards of engine rebuilding. One of the percularities (or however its spelt!) of the French blocks is that it doesnt have the seperate, bolt-on, bell housing. It retains the housing attached to the block, like the earlier engines. I believe the oil pan will require minor modification to clear the extra meaty main bearing caps & studs. It's a real hybrid of improvements on earlier blocks while retaining some of the earlier characteristics and ability to accept external add-ons. Every source I have been looking at holds these in high esteem. All going well, I will be able to evaluate this for myself, as I hope to get to inspect the block in person in next couple of weeks.

Lynn, I have looked at Vanpelt since your post, and am happy that this will suit my needs very well. At a whopping $3500, this block will eliminate a lot of the uncertainty associated with having work done on my old lump. The price is actually no dearer than the initial cost of these blocks if purchased in USA. Then the shipping costs would make the deal almost ridiculous, so the same price at my own doorstep is quite good. Price also includes a set of pistons & piston pins, so that is a little bonus the seller is providing without cost. I'm planning to take a number of the external parts with me when I go to look in person, and check the ability to attach them. Will also take the 'mike' and measure clearances for parts not yet purchased.

All in all, it's going to be a fun project. Even if I don't have any money left in the kitty for other immediate buys. Kitty will be a little constipated for a while.

Here's a number of pics of the item in question.
79223f9_20.jpg 64554ej_20.jpg 4772kgl_20.jpg 6367ie5_20.jpg 90027l5_20.jpg

[Private_collector]

Went to see the previously mentioned new flathead block today. Mmmmm, Boy! It's a beautiful thing to behold. Much better in person, than in photos. Still coated with cosmoline & stinks accordingly. Never seen one of these new blocks personally. Don't know if I would ever get to see another one. So I bought it! Well, put a holding deposit. I'll get back there (5hr round trip) within the next fortnight, to finalise the transaction. Actual price less expensive, following negotiation. Seller is quite a decent chap, and certainly knows his stuff. Bit bewildering, some of the information, really.

I had taken certain items with me, for purpose of being sure everything fits as needed. Which they do. An interesting discovery was made while there. My crankshaft has a visible crack eminating from one of the connecting rod bearing lube holes. May not be disasterous. Only the rebuilding engineers would know for sure, and it may only be known after a magnaflux test. I'm looking at possibility of having one of the original cranks imported. It would be one made especially for these blocks, so it would mate perfectly with the French made con rods I have. I may need to fake my own disappearance, in order to affford this, but I really want this engine to be perfect. I'm not intending to need it out of the chassis once it goes in!

So ultimately, apart from the heads, distributor plate, crank & cam gears, and very little else, I will be recycling approximately DICK from the engine I bought ages ago. Such is life.

[Lynn Eades]

Tony. If you going to buy a crank Check the french crank against a merc crank.
A ford crank is 3 3/4" stroke. the Merc crank has a 4.0" stroke. The rods are the same, but each crank would need different pistons. It is the "piston height" that changes (measurement from gudgeon centre to top of piston changes) Rods are 7.0" centre to centre.
I dont know what spec the french crank is. the ford is 239 cu.in., while the merc is 255cu.in.
If you haven't found it yet, have a look at "Rumbleseat's flathead visions"
Lots of info there.

[Richard Farrant]

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

I dont know what spec the french crank is. the ford is 239 cu.in., while the merc is 255cu.in.

My copy of the French SUMB truck handbook puts it at 4.2 litres which is 256cu in. Best check the stroke as it is not stated.

Tony, have you seen this website? ; http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/french.htm

[David Dunlop]

So let's just summarize now, Tony.

Several long trips out of town.
The appearance of a mysterious, large tank of bubbly, liquid in the back 40.
Sudden disappearance of said property owner.

Hmmm!

Have you remembered the new insurance policy on yourself, payable to the Estate?

Do keep us posted!


Cheers,


David

[Private_collector]

Hello Gents,

The cranks for the Froggy Flatheads are either 3.75 or 4.00 stroke. I want the 3.75 version, to match up with my rods, which are 7". The "btc" site is the one that had first put some of my fears to rest prior to arranging to look at the block. Just over a week ago I knew absolutely nothing about these engines, now after searching and reading information everywhere, I still know almost nothing! Once I get the block back home, I will make an attachment to bolt onto one lf the exhaust stud sets, so I can rotate it 360 degrees while working on it. In no haste to assemble, and have a couple more books on order, to read before I try anything. Slowly, slowly, catchy monkey!

[Private_collector]

Last week, with the new block expected this weekend, I had sent the heads for machining. Got em back on Friday. One was already straight, the other needed attention. Now both are spot-on!
Heads machined.jpg
Went to get the block Saturday. Another 450km round trip, but WELL WORTH IT! First thing to do this morning was to remove the preservative layer. I will give it a second, and possibly third, go in the future. Some of the original metal debris from machining was evident, trapped in time beneath the cosmoline (or whatever the French had used). Mmmmmm, clean!!!
Clean bores 1.jpg
Did a test fitment of a number of external parts, with interesting results.
The intake manifold was a 100% perfect fit, as was the distributor backing plate (in later photo).
Intake test fit 2.jpg
Oil pump idler and cam gear cover plate was too.
Cam gear & oil pump idler housing.jpg
The heads are a perfect fit as well, BUT I will need to locate a longer stud bolt for the top centre of each head. I was aware of this need before I bought it, so it's not a shock, or a problem.
Head test fit 1.jpg

Cont'd...

[Private_collector]

Here's what I mean about the longer head stud needed. It goes in here. The threaded part is lower in the block. Between the machined surface and the thread, there is a water jacket passage. This must be one of the refinements to improve water flow. Without any krud in the block, it's easy to see (and feel with finger) how much space is allocated for water transfer and cooling.
Home of the longer head stud.jpg Home of the longer head stud 2.jpg
The water pumps do fit, but will require an additional hole in the block to be eliminated. The hole is a cooling hole that must work with the 8BA pumps. I'll tap it and insert a threaded plug. The distributor plate is perfect fit. In my photo it looks like it's held on with the washers around pump bolts, but it's not. I just needed to take up some of the thread length of the old water pump bolts, because they were crappy thread further up near the head. I have a new full set of external hardware bolts. Don't want to open the packets this early though!
Water pumps & distributor cover test fit 1.jpg
It took me over an hour to insert all of the new head studs (less 2 still needed). I'm glad I bought these. They are all either new, or NOS. The nuts are from MacsAuto.
Head studs & nuts.jpg
This is where the govenor goes. Never seen one. Tempted to just make block-off plates for the openings not needed, but if I can actually get the original piece of machinery, that would be better. I assume one of the holes is for oil pressure sender, and two others are for oil in/out to filter???
Govenor location.jpg

[Keith Webb]

Such a work of art it almost seems a shame to spoil it by putting it together!

[Private_collector]

Topped off the day by finishing the exhaust manifolds.
Exhaust manifolds painted 1.jpg
They are now ready to install, but I won't yet. Am planning to make a metal piece off one side manifold bolts, so I can pivot the engine on it's stand. Not the trolley I currently move it around on, one yet to be bought. Many things are yet to be bought but I won't have the $$$ for much now, until I get tax done. Even then I may need to sell a kidney. Fairly low mileage one, in case anyone's interested.

[Private_collector]

Yeah, I know what you mean, Keith!

This engine will be more French than Canadian, when it's finished.
Hope it doesn't surrender at the first hill.
Still need the following parts:

French crank chaft.
French piston pins (different size to the ones I had bought several weeks ago )
French con rod bearings.
New cam shaft. Any country!

I ordered a new set of lifters last week. They are non-adjustable type. Can't go out of adjustment if there aint any!!!

[Private_collector]

At long last, the front end is finished (or very, very nearly). I have to order another brake cylinder bolt from Macs, THEN it's finished. Well, the wheel nuts were painted this morning, so they are only finger tight. Once torqued up, THEN it's finished. Oh, hold a minute, I have brushed one coat of paint on the bolts, so they will need another 2 before they're right, so..............THEN it's......well you get the idea!
Front axle reassembled 1.jpg Driver side steering knuckle 1.jpg Front diff & brake line.jpg

Finally got the NOS lifters.
NOS lifter set 2.jpg

Can someone please tell me which of these emergency brake brackets is correct for Ford CMP? Neither came with the vehicle, both acquired since, so I have no idea which one to clean up.
Emergency Brake Bracket.jpg