Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Hello one and all! As majority will know, the past month has seen me mostly absent, with bugger-all motivation. While things will never be the same for me, the lions share of the turmoil and acute heartache is subsiding.....slowly. I simply haven't had the time or ability to get much done until very recently. My Mother was up here last weekend, and she encouraged me to do a couple of the smaller jobs. So here goes...

A few weeks ago, I had come across a supplier who had brand new aluminium double pulley water pumps. They are heat treated to 'T-6', whatever that means exactly (I know it means they are stronger), and they have modern double sealed bearings inside. They also have a curved impellor, as opposed to the original straight type, meaning better water circulation and more efficient cooling. These water pumps are a direct replacement for the original ones. Although my block is a bastardised hybrid of 59A & 8BA, these new pumps are a perfect fit. There is an additional water hole coming out of the block, which will sit slightly above earlier style pumps, but it is of no consequence, as the other end of the channel lies under a portion of the head gaskets that does not have a water jacket hole. I will be sealing this channel with a suitable threaded plug or 'mouldable steel' material. This may not be required, because in theory the water cannot exit past the gasket, BUT theory doesn't always equate to practice, does it? Moving on.... The pair of water pumps are now painted and ready for installation. I have chosen NOT to paint the double pulleys. They were polished by me instead. The reason for this will become clear as you continue to read.
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Since my tax return, I have been able to purchase/order some of the major parts I was still needing to assemble the new engine. "New" is by far the best description. I have come to the conclusion that I will be happier with using as many new (or modern) components as I can locate, for reasons of functionality as well longevity. At times, the hot rodder in me has come out as well. Best example of that would be the chucking of the old 97 carburetor, and substituting a 4 barrel Holley 4160 series in it's place!
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On a more subtle note. The distributor has been disassembled, cleaned, rebushed, lubed, and treated to an electronic ignition system. It is still a 6v positive earth system, and apart from the two wires exiting the distributor body where the coil was, you can't see any external evidence of the change. I am assured that a better, stronger spark, will be the result of this change. Time will tell if that's correct, but the lack of ANY moving parts of the electronic module itself, and being an entirely sealed unit without breakers, is a very attractive proposition. A new 6v coil from Macsauto, and original looking but modern specs HT plug wires will complete the assembly.
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So that's circulation and ignition taken care of.

The old generator won't be going back on. It has been replaced by a one wire 6v alternator (also positive ground).
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There is a slight hitch with fit of the original twin belt pulley that also attaches the fan, but I have a fix in mind that will resolve the issue of fouling the fan blades of the alternator itself when the original pulley is spun on the alt. shaft. Ten seconds on a metal lathe will fix that!

Over the past 3 months, I have been scanning internet sites, doing searches on ebay, and generally taking notes on which companies offer the best value for money, so I could order the remaining components for the engine. Since mid July I have managed to dispose of over $3500, in exchange for new parts. As far as I am aware, everything has now been purchased.
Many items are yet to arrive, but the following items have been bought, in addition to the parts mentioned above.

* Eagle Cast Steel crankshaft, 4" stroke
* Egge piston set, Cast, STD bore, 4" stroke.
* Egge piston pins 3/4" OD.
* 3 & 3/16 bore, wide 4 ring piston ring set - Grant.
* '35-'48 crankshaft gear.
* Front crankshaft seal, modern, one piece (this replaces the old type 'rope' seal in 2 pieces)
* 1 set, complete engine gasket set, '39-'48. With copper head gaskets.
* 1 set, STD, main bearings '39-'48. Current Production.
* 1 set, STD, piston rod bearings '48-'53, locked type.
* 16x Johnston solid valve lifters, adjustable clearance.
* Pair, Adjuster wrenches, Johnston valve lifters.
* 1x oil pump idler gear, with bushing.
* 16x '37-'53, Autolite Spark Plugs.
* Ring gear set, flywheel. (This has already been installed by local engine shop.
* Distributor cap, '42-'48, Crab type.
* Distributor rotor arm, '42-'48 Crab type cap.

There may be other bits, but I don't recall them right now. Have realised that I also still need a new pressure plate and clutch, and a set of radiator tubes and hoses.

[motto]

Good to see you back Tony.

David

[Lynn Eades]

Hi Tony, Good to see you back.
No doubt this stuff will be giving you a certain amount of relief.
I see your wallet has been relieved as well.
The rumour mill suggests you might want to put a spare coil in your truck to back up the Macs coil. Another suggestion from the Fordbarn, is a New (not NOS) condensor from Napa rather than Macs. No personal experience or bitch, just my perception of the general feeling, on those two items.

[Little Jo]

Hi Tony

Good to see you back on deck again. I have missed following you posts. Keeping busy is the bust therapy and I am sure that is what your family would want you to do. Welcome back.

Cheers

Tony

[Richard Farrant]

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

Another suggestion from the Fordbarn, is a New (not NOS) condensor from Napa rather than Macs. No personal experience or bitch, just my perception of the general feeling, on those two items.

Lynn,
Tony will not need a condenser with electronic ignition

Tony,
Good to see you back. I enjoy reading your restoration progress.

regards, Richard

[Lynn Eades]

Richard, Thankyou. Some of us have kept up, and some of us have been left behind.

[Private_collector]

Hello gentlemen. Good to be back. My late Brother always had an afinity for the muscle cars of the 60s and 70s. He had, amongst other cars, a Monaro of the first body shape, a HQ Monaro LS, and a Valiant Hemi Pacer. Those vehicles are now worth tens of thousands of $$$, even in average condition. When my Brother had em, they were just your average second hand cars. Why am I telling you this? Simple. The truck I am building in Dads honour, the engine is gonna get a little bit of a tweak, just like Darryl would have done.

The information supplied with the electronic ingition identifies that the module is compatable with "resisted style coils", and says that 8 cylinder engines require a minimum of 0.6 ohms of resistance. Using an ohmmeter, you attach the leads to both pos. and neg. terminals to test if reading is over 0.6 ohms. If so, thats fine. If not, then I need another coil..........apparently. There is a recommendation for a specific coil, if it comes to that point, but a ballast resistor would work also. It would be a lot bloody cheaper too! I will do that test tomorrow morning.

All that technology stuff goes over my head mostly, but I look forward to working it out. With help.

I had an unexpected visit this afternoon, from a member of the Gympie historic vehicle club. He arrived in his 1930 Ford. He is coming back tomorrow to take some photos to show the other club members. I have been encouraged to join. He also gave me contact details for a guy he knows that has six or seven Flathead crankshafts for sale. That info is about 4 weeks too late unfortunately! Mine must be just about here by now. Difference being, mine will be in better condition, I guarantee. Damn site dearer I expect too.

[hrpearce]

4 barrel holley, Tony you sound like my collage mates from WA. They would spend all morning adjusting the carbys then drive into Orange and put their cars on a dyno to see who had tweaked theirs the best