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If I was doing this up, I would probably look at sandblasting everything bare even before attempting welding her back up. Another key thing about a reweld job like this is to also take into account the gap or amount of material that was torch cut out or that needs to be removed to facilitate decent welding and to allow for this when welding the frame back as well.
What I am getting at is that you need to keep the mounting holes aligned between frame vs body as it would be quite easy to stretch or shrink the overall dimensions on one or the other. I would be inclined to make the body fit together really nicely and then the frame can be adjusted to match and be unseen. Should the weld gap end up being too large to effectively weld in a couple passes, the welder can always affix a backer plate on the inside which can be cut off afterwards. A large gap like this can be filled by "weaving" the weld or layering in multiple passes. Considering the fact that they left the escape hatch uncut, it provides a great reference for how close the two halfs of the hull should be for welding.
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3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV 1957 Triumph TRW 500cc RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers Last edited by chris vickery; 03-04-14 at 03:49. Reason: sp |
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