Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Weather quite overcast today. Poor light under the truck where I would be working on emergency brake, so I went on to other things.
Pressure plate apart.jpg Pressure plate springs cleaned.jpg Pressure plate cleaned 1.jpg Pressure plate cleaned 2.jpg
Pulled the pressure plate assembly apart to inspect for any damage. Nothing broken or bent, but I did pull another assembly apart, to use the plate that was best of the two. After a lot of cleaning and a little light sanding of the face, everything came up quite well.
Pressure plate parts 1.jpg
Freshened all the bits, and they are now ready to go back together when I get the chance. Won't need to purchase anything. Not a single bolt.

[Private_collector]

On Wednesday I removed the rear drive shaft from the other truck.
Suspect rear shaft.jpg
I was immediately aware that the rear uni joint was different to those I have already installed on front axle prop shaft and shaft from gearbox to transfer case. The locking of the uni joint ends are on the inside of the cups, nearer to the uni spider. All the others lock on the outside of each cup. Is this even for a Ford? Doesn't look like anything in the manual. Is the rear shaft same diameter tube as front? This one is, but I would have expected thicker than front! If this thing is NOT Ford, then I am in trouble again. I have a badly butchered piece of thicker shaft, which had been cut to about 3'. It has a uni (larger than front ones) on one end, but I don't believe I have the other section. Just another example of getting incomplete parts from the guy I bought the truck from.
Different uni spindle.jpg
This is the different type of uni that was on one end of the narrower shaft. That one was complete, but too long (expected that) and will not attach to the coupling part on rear diff.

On another topic.
Radiator test fit.jpg
The radiator is temporarily in place. It's only there because that is probably th safest place for it to be. If I put it back into storage, it would be likely to become damaged.

[Private_collector]

Some weeks ago I bought a new clutch plate from MacsAuto.
New clutch plate, thinner profile.jpg
It's a nice piece, but I notice the new one has a slightly thinner profile than the original.
There would be approx 3/8" difference.
Will that cause any issues???

[Private_collector]

With the day nearly over, I got out the boroscope and investigated the oil passages from the pump.
Oil holes rear L block external.jpg
There are two plates which need to be made, to block off where French blocks had a governer (very top of photo, with 2 studs seen), and what has been described as a 'rev counter' (the opening facing camera, with two threaded holes diagonally set). That should not be a problem. The lower threaded hole on vertical surface is where the oil sender goes. The one above it, on horazontal surface is for oil line to/from filter..........at least I THINK it is. The other oil line hole is just visable on right side of where I will block off the diagonal holes. I have no idea which one goes to oil filter, and which one is from the filter, but it should dawn on me at some point.........I hope! No idea what the plugged hole was for, nor do I know why there is another plugged hole further down the side of the block. You can just see it, bottom left of the photo.
Oil pump housing showing outlets etc.jpg
This is the shaft where oil pump would sit. The hole on left side goes to the oil pressure sender. The hole on right looks to lead to the rear main bearing. I will confirm that by passing a thin piece of welding wire through, and look for it to appear where I took this photo from.
Oil feed hole rear main bearing.jpg
This is the oil hole coming to rear main bearing. I gather this also feeds oil along the crank?

Thats it. No more.........I promise!

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

I have no idea which one goes to oil filter, and which one is from the filter, but it should dawn on me at some point.

See pic below Tony. Looks like the filtered oil lubricates the governor drive gear before draining into the sump. On the CMP it's plumbed directly into the sump.

Something to be aware of with bypass filtration is that there needs to some restriction of flow, otherwise all the oil will go through the filter and none through the motor, esp. if there's no cartridge fitted. Presumably there's a restrictor in the filter inlet, ie. on the side of the filter housing. I'm not familiar with the fittings myself but it's something to confirm before assembly. Hopefully someone here can advise.

The two plugged passages are interesting, they could just be access holes for machining, or perhaps they're for flushing the system. I really don't have a clue to be honest.

Re crankshaft, it's only the rear main bearing that's fed directly from the oil pump, and from there to No.4 crankpin through a diagonal passage in the crankshaft itself. The rest of the crankshaft is fed from the main oil passage which runs along the top of the camshaft. There's a good diagram in Section C. Lubrication in the manual, the only difference being the full flow configuration.

Oil holes rear L block external.jpg

tonyblitz 110 - Copy.jpg

[Private_collector]

Thanks Tony.

Now I understand it.

[Ryan]

It may be that I'm still in bed and it's early, but how is that flathead sitting there in the chassis rails without the gearbox connected? Isn't it only connected by the water pumps?

[Ganmain Tony]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

On another topic.
Attachment 65778
The radiator is temporarily in place. It's only there because that is probably th safest place for it to be. If I put it back into storage, it would be likely to become damaged.

You may have already said something about the radiator on here Tony but I'll ask anyway...

Was there much work needed? How much did it cost? Who did it?

[Private_collector]

Hi G.T,

I have only cleaned and repainted the radiator myself. It is leak free unpressurised. It was rebuilt by a company in Maryborough (now defunct) many, many years ago. Chap I bought it from told me it was put into a truck, but the truck itself was then not used again. Hence the radiator is pretty good. I did spend about 30 minutes straightening a number of slightly bent copper fins. Couldn't help myself, but they could have easily been left as was!

Don't choke when I tell you this, it cost me $60. My mate (now Late, Paddy) only wanted scrap value for it. I did double check I had heard him right. He said he knew it was worth more, but just wanted to see it used and saved from a death worse than fate.

Last week I ordered a pair of steel upper hoses from USA. There is a chance they may fit as is, but could also require some work to get the angles right. Won't know until I get them and measure. Thought long and hard about just using rubber for entire upper hoses, but considered that to be too much of a compromise.

[Keith Webb]

I can hear choking sounds coming from Ganmain!

[Private_collector]

I don't know, Keith. Can't hear anything from Ganmain now.

Tony may have arrested! Call the Code.

[Shane]

Im a little sad about Tony, however first call on his truck. He will turn over in his grave when i put SA plates on her.

[Ganmain Tony]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

I don't know, Keith. Can't hear anything from Ganmain now.

Tony may have arrested! Call the Code.

Bloody computer packed it in.

Have only just read this, but yes gents, I may be offline for another week.

Your kidding Tony! Sixty Dollars!


Code blue! Code blue!