2015 at the Hammond Barn

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob, etal

Was looking at your work forming the angle for the back of the cab with interest, then was looking at the MetalMeet forum that lead to a YouTube video. That got me to this video take a look https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=01RnS6G6t30

Wouldn't you love to have one of these?

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

The things you can do with money.

Cheers

[Bob Carriere]

Caution

We would like to share our experience in finishing the curved angle iron.

Having made a carefull copy of the curve on a thick Oak plank and carefully cut out segments which were tacked welded using a Mig welder we continually compared our new angle iron against a salvaged angle iron to insure exactly the curve and fit. The original angle iron had been confirmed accurate by comparing it to the floor of my cab 11.

So completely assured that we had the correct curve I proceeded with the permanent welding of the 12 cuts. We staggered the welds to prevent distortion and finished by carefull grinding on both side. We set the heat to fairly high to insure proper penetration of the weld and to keep the rise of the weld bead to a minimum.

When we stacked up the new angle against the old one we were off by at least 12mm or 1/2 inch. THE SUCCESSION OF HIGH HEAT WELD ACTUALLY SHRANK THE CURVE 12MM OR 1/2 IN. TIGHTER

Not to despair. We carefully hammered the inside flat of the angle iron, to stretch the metal this time, until we had a perfect copy of the old original piece. It does take a fair amount of heavy hammering but eventually, we compared the gradual changes repeatedly against the wooden form and the original piece.

We are also fortunate that our work table, which was salvaged from a Lumonix Laser research centre is built with a 5/8 thick Stainless Steel top mounted on massive square tubing legs with casters. It weight about 1600 pounds and is a beautiful anvil and very flat set up table/welding table.

If we had to do another one we would hammer our welds after each one is done while still semi hot and also to reduce the grinding and keep the shrinkage in check.

Next weekend we will be removing/cutting out the rusted angle now bolted in the jig and bolt the new angle on place for welding the left and right hand section together. The jig weights more than the back wall itself but will insure an accurate alignment of the new angle iron base plate for the wall.

Amazing what you can do with some patience.

Cheers

[Bob Carriere]

The issue here is finding the right bearings for the "transmission counter shaft"

I will try to insert my pictures as I go along within the text.... never tried it before must see if I can do it as per Hanno's instructions.

First thing to do is to find a spare tranny to play with. Had one with a missing PTO cover so it was dry as a popcorn fart and a lot easier to take apart.

First thing to remove was the back cover..... the top four bolts had already been removed due to a catastrophic failure.... the bolts from the flange on the output flange had worked loose and broke the casing and decapitated the four bolts..... that is why the tranny was a spare or parts donor.

The flange was removed first then the cover came off after removing the remaining 3 bottom bolts..... remember to save the spacer on the inside of the cover. The photo shows the rear side of the tranny. The bottom shaft is the countershaft we need to get to.

Now to insert the picture.
IMG_0231.jpg

I think it is working.

So the tranny has to be taken apart to get to the countershaft at the vary bottom. First remove the shift cover.
IMG_0234.jpg
No surprises.... the gears are dirty, surface grime and rust but truns freely and no missing or chewed up teeth.


The front cover of the input shaft was removed...saving the 7/17 bolts and the special retainer washers. A bit of tapping on the rear fo the output shaft with a brass hammer moves the entire shaft and will pushout the front bearing and the front of the input shaft..... pull out the input shaft and bearing.... the rear part of the shaft will remain in the tranny
IMG_0237.jpg

....careful because inside the shaft is a small bearing shaped like a squirrel cage.... wrap up with a paper towel and put a side.

Will continue on the next posting...... obviously having an Australian problem.
( seems all my cell phone pictures are upside down)
Cheers

[Bob Carriere]

Let first try a picture of the trany with the cover removed showing the grimy but complete gear cluster.

NOTE.... Hanno when I click on the paper clip the
ATTACHMENT WINDOW does not open.....?

so back to the old way...

Ooops....something is wrong... tried the regular attachment and it does not work...for me at least...

will return when the technical difficulties have been resolved.

Boob

[RHClarke]

Hi Bob, How is the wood pile holding out? By the way, is that an Australian contract tranny?

[Bob Carriere]

OK Time for a break....maybe even a beer........

Will try again later when my nerves are less frazzelled.....


Let try again a picture of the tranny with the cover removed showing the grimmy but complete gear cluster.

...needed resizing.....arghhh!!
So far so good....not so good the limit of 5 pictures still applies no matter where they are inserted or they all become invalid.

Next the whole top shaft has to be removed using a 9 in, brass drift tap the front of the shaft where the input gear came out and the rear bearing should come off the rear of the tranny..... the whole gears assembly will slide off the shaft and can be lifted out of the tranny case.

IMG_0233resozed.jpg

IMG_0235crop.jpg



Next we need to remove the reverse gear to access the countershaft.


The hardest part is working up the nerve to hammer out the countershaft.

Again with a sturdy brass drift pin you need to hammer out towards the front of the case the whole assembly taking care to hit on the centre of the shaft and not on the bearing.

Here is the complete counter shaft.


You can see the counter shaft OD measurements of 43.99 calls for a bearing at 44.0mm showing a bit of wear or accuracy of the caliper. The overall OD size is 72mm for the 1207 bearing.

Hyatt no longer exists as a brand but sourced NTN 207 which SHOULD fit.... will know later this week when the new bearing come in.

The problem child is the front bearing. Now replaced by NTN #NJ206. Now this bearing comes with a center race which is removed by hand and should result in a perfect fit on the front of the shaft.




The outside OD is 62MM, which is correct, the inside has to be measured from the OD of the insert which read as per the photo.

When you measure the OD of the shaft .. calls for 38mm new.



and the OD of the insert.....





you are short approx 0.45 mm.....whcih results in a very loose bearing.

I am now awaiting a NTN #NJ 206E which mayve a getter fit will know later this week.

Meanwhile who can contribute to solving this problem......

Is there a better fitting bearing that you may have used in your past tranny rebuild....????

It is nice to be able to insert pictures at the right place in the text BUT it takes a lot of twealing around from croppng to resizing to adding text than managing the individual attachments AND taking care to DELETE the ones previously inserted.....

...but I think I did it. What else can you do on a cold day!!!

Cheers

PS.... what happened this time......??? I am going back to the stone tablets....

[Bob Carriere]

.... my patience with the box is hitting bottommmmmmm

[Stuart Fedak]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

That got me to this video take a look https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=01RnS6G6t30

Wouldn't you love to have one of these?

Cheers Phil

Bob, may I suggest that we all cash in all our empty beer bottles, and see if we have enough to buy one of these machines..... If we are short, perhaps we can try out the anvil, hammer and oxy/acetylene torch methods?

Lots to learn.......

Cheers!
Stuart