2015 at the Hammond Barn

[Bob Carriere]

OK Time for a break....maybe even a beer........

Will try again later when my nerves are less frazzelled.....


Let try again a picture of the tranny with the cover removed showing the grimmy but complete gear cluster.

...needed resizing.....arghhh!!
So far so good....not so good the limit of 5 pictures still applies no matter where they are inserted or they all become invalid.

Next the whole top shaft has to be removed using a 9 in, brass drift tap the front of the shaft where the input gear came out and the rear bearing should come off the rear of the tranny..... the whole gears assembly will slide off the shaft and can be lifted out of the tranny case.

IMG_0233resozed.jpg

IMG_0235crop.jpg



Next we need to remove the reverse gear to access the countershaft.


The hardest part is working up the nerve to hammer out the countershaft.

Again with a sturdy brass drift pin you need to hammer out towards the front of the case the whole assembly taking care to hit on the centre of the shaft and not on the bearing.

Here is the complete counter shaft.


You can see the counter shaft OD measurements of 43.99 calls for a bearing at 44.0mm showing a bit of wear or accuracy of the caliper. The overall OD size is 72mm for the 1207 bearing.

Hyatt no longer exists as a brand but sourced NTN 207 which SHOULD fit.... will know later this week when the new bearing come in.

The problem child is the front bearing. Now replaced by NTN #NJ206. Now this bearing comes with a center race which is removed by hand and should result in a perfect fit on the front of the shaft.




The outside OD is 62MM, which is correct, the inside has to be measured from the OD of the insert which read as per the photo.

When you measure the OD of the shaft .. calls for 38mm new.



and the OD of the insert.....





you are short approx 0.45 mm.....whcih results in a very loose bearing.

I am now awaiting a NTN #NJ 206E which mayve a getter fit will know later this week.

Meanwhile who can contribute to solving this problem......

Is there a better fitting bearing that you may have used in your past tranny rebuild....????

It is nice to be able to insert pictures at the right place in the text BUT it takes a lot of twealing around from croppng to resizing to adding text than managing the individual attachments AND taking care to DELETE the ones previously inserted.....

...but I think I did it. What else can you do on a cold day!!!

Cheers

PS.... what happened this time......??? I am going back to the stone tablets....

[Bob Carriere]

.... my patience with the box is hitting bottommmmmmm

[chris vickery]

Looking good Bob.
Your pics bring back memories of restoring my 12 cab...
I like how you made the bottom framework for the cab.
I made my pieces from flatstock cut out on the bandsaw to the correct radius and pieced into place by cutting out the bottom part of the angle and then wrapping the angle to match the flat radiused piece.
No fancy bending required and just a bit of welding. Of course I had made a template on a sheet of plywood just to be sure using the old frame.
At the end of the day whatever works.
Just wait until you have to re skin the back of the cab.
My windshield frame was custom built from 2 M37 window frames, cut and welded on a jig to original specs using the old refurbished hardware.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

First we are talking Chevy CMP?

Assuming yes then, as to which way you drive out the lower counter shaft I'm not sure which way it likes to be driven, put it is definitely one way. I believe the end toward the bell-housing is tapered so that it goes in from the rear and is driven out toward the rear.

Someone please confirm, because memory says that someone on MLU has BROKEN a case by driving the shaft the wrong way. (15 minutes later checked the manual and the lower idler shaft goes in from the rear and out toward the rear, my problem was what the different shafts are called.)

Strange you should be looking for transmission parts it is the Second Transmission Rebuild Question This Month I've read. Herman, in Belgium was in touch last week looking for help with getting parts to rebuild the lower cluster shaft bearings for his CMP. His problem was his e-mail would not work to get in touch with Obsolete Chevy in Georgia little e-mail relaying e-mails between the gal who knows what parts they have stashed away, and Herman and his parts are now on the way.

Obsolete Chevy http://www.obschevy.com/Pages/OurCatalogs.html parts is where I've been getting transmission parts for years. They are the ones who had a NOS transmission when I needed on two years ago. You can check on line to see if they have the part you need. But if they don't have it listed give them a call because they have a lot of parts not listed in online catalog because they have only one or two.



Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Chris

Yes we discussed cutting and doing a curve piece as you mentioned but in the end did the pie cuts and welding.

We have now finished replacing the bottom angle iron. A jig is really needed when you start cutting out parts as the remainder becomes very floppy.

See photos of the semi finished back wall. It has to go back in the jig to finish the reinforcement ribs and tack weld them in the proper spot.

Cheers

[Bob Carriere]

...and it originated froman enquiry from Herman.

It seems that the front bearing.... Hyatt 1206 is no longer available but NTN as a substitute that does not fit.

The counter shaft is 38.mm the ID of the new substitute is 38.44 and loose/

I have ordered both the 1207 and the offending 1206 and await there arrival..... will go into town with the countershaft and try them there for size.

The reverse gear shaft MUST BE driven from the front towards the back or the case will crack for sure. the front end of the shaft is cut semicircle and fits into a beefed up section that effectively keeps the shaft from spinning. The reverse gear rotates on that shaft supported on two brass sleeves/bushings.

To remove the countershaft from the bottom of the case you need to hammer the visible end of the shaft at the rear towards the front..... that will push out the sheet metal cap that sit tight over the front 1206 bearing.

The 1206 from bearing has an insert or bearing race that needs to be removed to fit over the shaft. The shaft measures just under the original 38mm and the OD of the insert is 38.44mm making for a loose fit.

[Bob Carriere]

.....is not very helpful. One would need to call them for specifics on these two bearings.

Still determine to see if there IS a modern substitute that fits properly or start building up a reserve of these odd sizes.

Bob C