2017 F15A Starting over

[sth65pac]

Slow work yesterday, after some grit in my eye. No injuries with PPE on any vehicle except this truck.. My eye is slowly getting beeting better. Some hatch patches. tacked in first then fill the popped holes (rust) Dress with a flap disk.

[sth65pac]

A little more cut and fill, tack in slowly. These hatches are oh so old and frail.

I could re-skin the whole lot but to me, its making a new axe. Preserving what I have is harder but better.

Cheers,

Ian

[sth65pac]

Hi Folks,
After last week's eye injury (grinding grit in my eye- and I was wearing safety glasses) Managed to finish off the drip rails with a re-made piece of the correct dimensions. The box section was too small so a new drawing and off to the sheet metal man again.
This is markedly better than the rusted ones of 70+ years.
Its very satisfying to see parts how they should look, not old and damaged.

I dressed all of the repairs to the roof again, not satisfied with the first pass. About 6 hours work now but the result is great.

Ahh and you can see I have to repair the hatch area (Ford) when has a lot of water damage over the years. Again, my measurements were a little short so I will have a rail made at the sheet metal shop.

Cheers,

Ian

[sth65pac]

Today I also ordered some parts, two twin row water pumps $400, A fuel pump $80 and the five engine mounts $150 for the cab and engine.
Its only money they say.... that was a $650+ dent.

Our dollar is falling in value (again) against the green-back so price of parts is 25% more per USD. A lot different form some years back when it was parity.

I also have had a new rear crossmember folded up $41!! locally. I have etch primed it just for rust preventing, and I'll measure and drill all of the support and rivet holes in the near future ready for re-riveting.

Does anyone know if there is a MACs supplier in the UK? Postage from the USA is stupidly expensive.

Cheers,
Ian

[Ganmain Tony]

TCR Carponents Bayswater in Melbourne are MACs agents Ian.

Ph no. is 03 97616706

[sth65pac]

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

TCR Carponents Bayswater in Melbourne are MACs agents Ian.

Ph no. is 03 97616706

Yes Tony,
TCR helped free many moths from my wallet yesterday , They dont carry the specific parts I need so I guess MACs and USPS are going to be making a killing.

I might give them a ring and see if they can do me a one-off import again, we get copped GST!!

Cheers,

Ian

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by sth65pac

Does anyone know if there is a MACs supplier in the UK? Postage from the USA is stupidly expensive.

Thedinga is located in the Netherlands - see http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=25575

Maybe you could give him a try?

HTH,
Hanno

[sth65pac]

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

Thedinga is located in the Netherlands - see http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=25575

Maybe you could give him a try?

HTH,
Hanno

Thanks Hanno,

Problem for me....an English speaker... is that the webpage doesnt recognise Part numbers and I can't read the directions and I am too old to want to learn another language.

I'll probably use TCR or MACs Directly.

Cheers,

Ian

[T Creighton]

Hi Ian,
Ajays may be of some help to you.
The Aussie dollar is worth more than ours as well.
Their web site : http://www.fordv8parts.com/
Disclaimer : I have no connection with Ajays.
Cheers, Terry

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by sth65pac

Problem for me....an English speaker... is that the webpage doesnt recognise Part numbers and I can't read the directions and I am too old to want to learn another language.

I'll probably use TCR or MACs Directly.

Ian,

Mr. Thedinga is old school: send him an email with your wants list and see if he can help (or even surprise) you?

Regards,
Hanno

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

How did you form those drip rails?

Originally Posted by sth65pac

Hi Folks,
After last week's eye injury (grinding grit in my eye- and I was wearing safety glasses) Managed to finish off the drip rails with a re-made piece of the correct dimensions. The box section was too small so a new drawing and off to the sheet metal man again.
This is markedly better than the rusted ones of 70+ years.
Its very satisfying to see parts how they should look, not old and damaged.

I dressed all of the repairs to the roof again, not satisfied with the first pass. About 6 hours work now but the result is great.

Ahh and you can see I have to repair the hatch area (Ford) when has a lot of water damage over the years. Again, my measurements were a little short so I will have a rail made at the sheet metal shop.

Cheers,

Ian

[sth65pac]

Originally Posted by Bruce Parker

How did you form those drip rails?

I measured all I had and got them folded up (two pieces per side) at the sheet metal shop near me. They taper in width on the lower (attached to old steel) I have the measurements if people are interested.

cheers,

Ian

[sth65pac]

A bit of digression while I make a set and dolly for the rivet tasking. Have the materials but I have to grind a drill bit to the correct taper for the rivet head.

Repainting the cowl and some hardware & the GS toolbox. Now the doors have been re-repaired and the rust sandblasted away (again). I managed to find the RH door bolts too so they will be re-installed.

Some brass hinge bushes purchased nine short years ago are not suitable as replacements so I'll source some new ones through Macs I think.

Sadly the paint shop ran out of flattener for the paint so one day next weekend will be hardware paint day I guess. I found two mirror brackets in the pile.

Nine years in between had caused me to forget what I had wrapped in newspaper

Cheers

Ian

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by sth65pac

A bit of digression while I make a set and dolly for the rivet tasking. Have the materials but I have to grind a drill bit to the correct taper for the rivet head.

Hi Ian,

Just re read this and thought I would offer this suggestion.

A blacksmithing mate of mine said a good way to make a rivet dolly is to heat a grade 8 bolt red hot of the appropriate size and drive a ball bearing of the desired size into it forming a rounded cup.

Drill steel, though hard, is very brittle so may fracture with disastrous results upon heavy impact as would occur in riveting.
It may be worth considering anyway.

Cheers,

[Mike K]

.................................

Originally Posted by sth65pac

Have the materials but I have to grind a drill bit to the correct taper for the rivet head.

Maybe a ball nosed end mill would do it or a form tool in a lathe


Sadly the paint shop ran out of flattener for the paint so one day next weekend will be hardware paint day I guess.

I read a painting article in the ARMY MOTORS club magazine years ago , a US restorer used silicon powder as a flattening agent , you buy it from hobby potting suppliers i.e. people who make clay pots and fire them in a kiln
Cheers

Ian