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Old 02-08-17, 13:44
David Nicholson David Nicholson is offline
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And with 20 x 1200 Tyres fitted to the front which I found. Looking for more.....

Engine is out, trying to free some valves, and remove split valve guides. Ready for it's acid bath.....then off to the specialist for rebuild evaluation.....

The truck came with good radiator, lights(Minus the lenses!!!), and a whole lot of bits and pieces! Engine was complete but seized.

Engine may not be original as stated before. Bore's measure 3 3/16 (3.1875).

I purchased another engine, but it was worse than original, so will re-build this one if nothing too bad is found...

I bought some excellent engine covers which are complete and rust free...

It looks like the transfer case intermediate gear has failed at some point, so will need that looking at.

Gearbox looks in excellent condition. I have removed the side cover and drained the oil(sludge) and inspected the gears which all seem ok, and without pitting!!!(Need a win sometime!).

BTW, does anyone know if you can directly replace the older style split valve guides, for the latter model guides and valves in the older blocks?
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Old 02-08-17, 14:45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Nicholson View Post
BTW, does anyone know if you can directly replace the older style split valve guides, for the latter model guides and valves in the older blocks?
Yes, you can. A little info on Valvetrain in THIS THREAD
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Old 02-08-17, 22:57
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Keith Webb Keith Webb is offline
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Default Engine colour

Looking at the front on shot it has a 'Divers Helmet' distributor as fitted to the 1941 vehicles. You mentioned the engine number is different to the one on the data plate, what is the number of the engine that was in it?
I have some NOS transfer case gears, might have the one you need, but will have to dig them out of storage.
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Old 02-08-17, 23:58
Mike Cecil Mike Cecil is offline
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What did you do with the boom crane? It looks to be the original crane as fitted to the F60L. Both the RAAF and the Army (mainly engineer units) used that crane type.

The original engine number, as Keith said, was also used as the chassis number of Aust assembled/built Fords, so that would be helpful in finding out its original identity/military registration number.

Nice project. Best of luck. The thread Tony pointed you to re valves just about provides everything you need to know or the options you have before you. As for pistons and crank shaft bearings, I used a later model crank shaft with two oil holes per journal, and fixed shell bearings rather than the original full-float type. Four ring pistons and 8BA con rods with fixed shell bearings. Also a crab-type distributor rather than the helmet type you already have. Balanced, it went like a train.

Mike
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Old 03-08-17, 01:59
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What did you do with the boom crane? It looks to be the original crane as fitted to the F60L. Both the RAAF and the Army (mainly engineer units) used that crane type.

Mike
And discussed in THIS THREAD. (It is also a cautionary tale about using photo hosting sites, as some really good pics of the cranes have now disappeared from that thread! )
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Old 03-08-17, 14:17
David Nicholson David Nicholson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Cecil View Post
What did you do with the boom crane? It looks to be the original crane as fitted to the F60L. Both the RAAF and the Army (mainly engineer units) used that crane type.

Hey Mike, I still have the original crane and winch driven by the PTO. Not sure what I will do with it yet? I was thinking of leaving it off, as it weighs a lot.
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Old 03-08-17, 18:42
Mike Cecil Mike Cecil is offline
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Default Truck, 3 ton, Derrick

You have a 'Truck, 3 ton, Derrick', Army Registration Number 161942.

It was written off by Board of Survey from 2 Base Ordnance Depot on 5 January 1961, and would have been sold at auction shortly afterwards.

The engine number was the key.

Interestingly, the previous serial number (146477) was an RAAF GS vehicle, while several around that, for example, serial 146474, were the RAAF version of the Derrick, called a 'Crane GP', so it would seem your truck and several RAAF 'Crane GP' were all assembled by Ford at about the same time, and farmed out to both the RAAF and Army.

Regards

Mike

Last edited by Mike Cecil; 03-08-17 at 18:48.
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Old 04-08-17, 01:48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Nicholson View Post
Hey Mike, I still have the original crane and winch driven by the PTO. Not sure what I will do with it yet? I was thinking of leaving it off, as it weighs a lot.
Hello David,

I found this photograph at the Australian War Memorial website. It shows a crane like yours being operated in Queensland.

The caption reads:

Wongabel, Queensland. 13th of March 1945. A 3 ton derrick mounted on a truck unloads a car engine at 2/3 Infantry Troops Field Park. Corporal G.R. Moyle (1), handles the engine at the foreground.

Photograph accessed August, 4 2017 from https://www.awm.gov.au/collection/C66242?search

A couple of differences between your truck and the one in the photograph taken back in 1945: your truck has dual rear wheels and the truck taken in 1945 has single rear wheels. The 1945 truck has a tool box mounted across the rear of the tray. Unless the toolbox was installed as an outrigger arrangement it does not look like it would fit on your truck?

Kind Regards
Lionel
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Last edited by Lionelgee; 04-08-17 at 02:54.
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  #9  
Old 04-08-17, 04:22
David Nicholson David Nicholson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lionelgee View Post
Hello David,

I found this photograph at the Australian War Memorial website. It shows a crane like yours being operated in Queensland.

Kind Regards
Lionel
Hey thanks Lionel!

My truck when found, was converted into a vehicle recovery truck, and worked it's civilian life as a tow truck in Walcha, NSW, Australia.

It had extensive steel plate added to the rear for towing cars by the front axel, it has the extensions added to widen front wheelbase.

I assumed that the duel wheels and extensions to the front would have been added when the tow truck conversion took place? Or did they have these wheels in military service?

Really appreciate the photo!
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  #10  
Old 03-08-17, 14:13
David Nicholson David Nicholson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Webb View Post
Looking at the front on shot it has a 'Divers Helmet' distributor as fitted to the 1941 vehicles. You mentioned the engine number is different to the one on the data plate, what is the number of the engine that was in it?
I have some NOS transfer case gears, might have the one you need, but will have to dig them out of storage.
Thanks Keith, I'd appreciate if you had some gears, and wanted to sell them. Keep me in mind as I'll be looking at the TX case soon.....

4G6532F is the number given on the data plate....see pic. The number on the casting on the bell housing is D363:1 K. Engine does have the divers helmet fitted. Mmmmmm need to find more numbers on the engine. I'm beginning to think it was a quick fix by putting another motor in it?
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  #11  
Old 04-08-17, 00:12
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Nicholson View Post
The number on the casting on the bell housing is D363:1 K. Engine does have the divers helmet fitted. Mmmmmm need to find more numbers on the engine. I'm beginning to think it was a quick fix by putting another motor in it?
Hi David,

After zooming in on your photo of the engine I would say it probably was a engine swap with an earlier passenger car engine based on the single row water pump pulleys and what appears to be an alloy intake manifold. Neither would have been used on a 1944 built truck engine.

That number has me intrigued though. Is it raised lettering and cast into the block or stamped into the block? If raised lettering it does not conform to any block ID I could find. Still, there are a few strange ones out there which may not have been documented. If stamped into the block then some administration may have done it for their own ID purposes.

Cheers,
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Old 12-08-17, 14:28
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And with 20 x 1200 Tyres fitted to the front which I found. Looking for more.....
When it was fitted with duals, there was a spacer fitted to the front hub to allow correct steering geometry with the offset "Dual" rim. If you're going back to 12.00-20's on single rims, you will need to remove the spacer to get correct steering again. The spacers were made by the Aust Army for fitment to to 3 ton tippers.
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Old 13-08-17, 07:51
David Nicholson David Nicholson is offline
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Originally Posted by Tony Smith View Post
When it was fitted with duals, there was a spacer fitted to the front hub to allow correct steering geometry with the offset "Dual" rim. If you're going back to 12.00-20's on single rims, you will need to remove the spacer to get correct steering again. The spacers were made by the Aust Army for fitment to to 3 ton tippers.
Thanks Tony! Appreciate the information........

I've also got 3 out of 4 Shockabsorbers apparently seized? Has anybody had any experience in un-seizing these? I imagine you can't get new ones .... But I'd like to get them moving at least. Not sure if I'll ever need them to work as designed......With those springs I dont think I'll really notice the difference crawling through the bush....
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Old 16-08-17, 04:07
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Houdaille shock absorbers

Hi David,

Wish I could tell you how to un-seize them but I can't. Years ago I tried everything from filling with Penetrene, acetone, and even soaking in kero for a month. Nothing moved. I didn't try brake fluid and acetone together as has been mentioned before as a great penetrant for seized nuts and studs. Perhaps that might work?

I wound up getting them restored by Frank Curcio in Melbourne who specialized in reconditioning those type of shock absorber as used on A Model Fords but are a bit smaller. He took a couple extra ones apart for me so I could have a look. I don't think he is still in business though. To do it again I would do it myself as all he did was heat up the arm at the pivot shaft while using a puller that he fabricated for the job. Once the arm is off, the hardest part, the rest comes apart easily for cleaning.

As per the photos Houdaille shock absorbers are beautifully machined and that is the problem. Once the fluid congeals or goes hard in those tight clearances it effectively locks everything up.

Beware too that they have a clockwise and anti-clockwise operation so you cannot swap left to right and vice versa should you find some that move.

There are a few websites that explain Houdaille shock absorbers which makes for interesting reading.

Hopefully I got the ball rolling and someone will be able to add to this.

Cheers,
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File Type: jpg 000_0163.JPG (160.4 KB, 1 views)
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  #15  
Old 17-08-17, 00:19
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Hi David,

Beware too that they have a clockwise and anti-clockwise operation so you cannot swap left to right and vice versa should you find some that move.

Cheers,
Further to previous post:

The attachment lugs are stamped either "AC" for anti-clockwise or "CW" for clockwise. See attached photo.

The filling plug should always be on the top too, so if it is at the bottom it probably has been mounted on the wrong side.

Cheers,
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  #16  
Old 02-09-17, 13:33
David Nicholson David Nicholson is offline
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Does anyone know if the old style valves (tapered bottom) are sodium filled? I'm having a great deal of trouble removing the old valve guides. I want to cut the bottom off the valve, remove the valve, then drift the guide out from the cam side.....
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  #17  
Old 02-09-17, 20:33
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It's not an uncommon problem, and "back in the day" there were 2 styles of tools designed to attack the problem. Funnily enough, both were recently for sale on Ebay AU (I wasn't the buyer or seller, although I might have placed a bid). Keep an eye out on Ebay US, they do appear there quite frequently.

First, the bridge type. Remove the horseshoe clip holding the valve guide. Lift the valve enough to slip the centre threaded casting over the opened valve. The outer tube is placed over it and spans the valve seat area. Wind the nut, and keep winding, nothing will resist and the whole valve, guide and spring assembly will be drawn out of the block. Flatattack Racing did reproduce this tool for some time, and with his trademark excellent machining, but they have not been available for some years.

And secondly, the punch type. Again with the valve open, slip this under the valve and around the valve stem, and find the biggest hammer you've got and take one last look at your knuckles before you drive the guide into the lifter valley.
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File Type: jpg valve 2.jpg (387.5 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg flatattack tools.jpg (8.5 KB, 528 views)
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Last edited by Tony Smith; 02-09-17 at 20:42.
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