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If you pull the axle shafts, I suspect you will have a little harder time finding those inner axle shaft seals. I used to be able to buy them back in the early 90s, but they don't seem to be around anymore. I use the inner axle seal and retainer from the M35 (MLVW). You have to turn down the outer diamter of the retainer, but after that you will be able to buy off the shelf seals.
Bob: afraid to get your hands messy with fresh grease? Personally, I find the fresh grease cleans my hands to a better condition than before I start repacking. |
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And with power of the internet I managed to get new outer seals, front and rear wheel cylinders and some new brake hose lines ordered.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#4
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...similar to Bruce I had to get an adapter made by a local machine shop to adapt a stock seal that had the right ID but was too small on the OD....once pinned in place by a center punch they should last for years.
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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I picked up a parts washing station from Princess Auto the other week. Using the bucket of gasoline in the driveway worked but it wasn’t the best nor could I fit larger parts....unless I got a bigger bucket.
Anyway I modified the basic unit by moving the pump to the bucket below the tank. I also added a quarter turn shut off valve on the drain. This lets me either drain the main tank or fill it up for parts soaking. I also added a piece of filler metal to the original pump switch hole on the side of the unit. To this I mounted the movable nozzle using two brass fittings. This made the nozzle much more secure then originally mounted to the plastic outlet directly on the pump. Weather stripping was added to the inside edge of the top. It does a good job of sealing the unit when the lid is down. Lastly I made up a wooden dolly so it can be easily moved about the shop. So far it’s worked great and I’ve been using it to clean up my brake drums and backing plates. The only downside to it is.......the constant running liquid from the nozzle is making me have to pee. ![]()
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
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Nice idea to relocate the pump.... the longer the cleaning fluid gets to sit in your 5 gallon bucket the more the dirt while settle and give you clean fluid the next time you use it as long as your sucker pipe is not too low in the bottom of the bucket.
If you ever intend to use the sheet metal shelf with the provided brackets....make sure you tack weld some 3/4 in. angle on the underside of the shelf otherwise it will bend and sag first time you use it. On the minus side, at -25 C the cleaning liquid really really gets cold on your hands.....and cold fluid does not clean good....... on certain pieces, i.e. drums, a rinse in gasoline will leave a drier surface. I collect the old gasoline fluid and let it settle in windshield containers..... pour off the top 80% for re use. All and I mean all combustible fluid, engine oil, tranny oil, parts cleaning fluid, skunky old gasoline, paint thinner, axle oil, gets saved in Lucifer,s bladder and the goo gets recycle in Lucifer for added heat. Stay warm Jordan!!!!
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#7
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Jordan,
Have you balanced the inflow through the nozzle with the outflow to the holding bucket, or are you just pumping from the holding bucket until it is empty? Can't see from the image. If you have created a complete circuit where inflow = outflow, then you can use a two bucket system to settle the used liquid before re-using it. Outflow into bucket 1 where the larger sediment settles out to the bottom. Bucket 1 connects to bucket 2 via an overflow pipe near the top edge, with a baffle around the overflow pipe inlet. Pump to the nozzle draws liquid from bucket 2. It means you also have twice as much cleaning liquid in the system. Just a thought. Mike |
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