Info needed: Engine Pre-Lube after storage

[rob love]

Originally Posted by David Herbert

Les,
If you crank the engine with an air wrench (I assume you mean an air IMPACT wrench) you will do up the crankshaft pulley bolt way tighter than it is designed for. This is not a good idea.

David

Never drive anything like a crank or even an alternator with an impact wrench. You can break off the shaft from the overtorquing. Don't ask me how I know this.

[Les Kovacs]

Thanks for the input Rob, David and Charlie....as per your combined suggestion(s) I will pull the plugs, lube each cylinder and crank with starter while watching PSI gauge....when PSI is up to 40-50 I will put the plugs back in and try for a first start.

Rob.....thanks for the warning!

Regards,

lesk

[rob love]

Are you talking about trying to get the oil pressure up to 40-50 by cranking? Not sure you will reach that and certainly not necessary. In fact, I don't think any of that is necessary but rather overkill for an engine that has been parked for less than 6 months.

[Mike Cecil]

Standard starting procedure for Leopard AS1 was to hold back the accelerator pedal and crank the engine until the oil pressure started to rise, then let go the pedal so the engine started.

But I agree with Rob about a jeep engine having been sitting for under 6 months. Nothing oily should have 'dried out' in that time, with oil retained in bearings and on journals. The long cranking time should be more than enough to raise a little oil pressure before starting anyway.

I'd think the more likely problem after 6 months would be the gunk from modern fuel left within the carbie after evaporation while in storage. That stuff sticks the needle and seat together and clogs inlets jets. It is why I have a notice in the workshop to 'start engines monthly', and that includes mowers, generator, jeeps, tractor.

Mike

[rob love]

Batter yet, and I have said it more than a few times on this forum, don't use the craptastic ethanol blended fuel in anything with a carburator. Stick to premium fuel and sitting over the winter won't be an issue.

Don't fall victim to the corn lobby, or politicians that want to pass this off as some kind of a green initiative, which it most certainly is not.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

During winter time when I don't drive the Ford, I regularly crank over the engine using the hand crank.

H.

[Lynn Eades]

As Hanno has mentioned his Ford, I think the time is right to bring up this aspect. I would suggest the first thing that could be a problem in an older type engine is that an exhaust valve MIGHT stick, due to rust forming on the dry stem. Not uncommon in flathead Fords and Jeeps.
If things like oil pumps are "in tolerance" then enough oil will usually hang up in there to form a good "seal". the effect being that oil pressure will come up immediately.
More damage (wear) will come from how that engine is warmed up to operating temperature, by which time the clearances in that engine will be correct and minimal wear takes place. Hence the need for a good functioning thermostat for a quick warm up. This also applies in every day use.
Crank journals (main and big ends) will hold oil for ages however gudgeon (crank)pins are more inclined to dry out by comparison. The advice here is a fast idle after start up to get the oil thrown up there.
I hope this helps.