How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

Thanks all for the discussion and comments. I’m using the nickel copper line so it’s pretty flexible. I did pickup one of those brake flaring tools as pictured by Grant. I also picked up the straightening tool Eastwood sells. I have to say that it does a great job of taking the coiled line and making it very straight. The tool pictured, although pricey, to me it was worth it. It is very easy to use and does great flares with little effort.

As for my fuel line, I’m going to try and do a single piece for going to the back. I feel that the nickel copper line will be flexible enough to get it all in place.

[Jordan Baker]

Is this the correct route for the long line to the rear? Would the large holes in the cross members have the felt washers in them? Lastly would there be mounting clips along the way at a few of the bolt holes in the frame?

[rob love]

I won't speak as to what ir original for the chev CMP, but common practice for brake lines (and fuel lines) is that they are clamped along the frame rails so there is no vibration of the line. There should be no need for grommets of any kind on the holes through the crossmembers, as a properly clamped tube should not be moving. It should be bent so it is not touching the edge of the hole of the crossmember.



Princess auto sells the wiring clamps with the rubber cushioning in them. In the military supply system they are called clamp loops, and come in a large variety of mounting hole sizes as well as the clamp size. They will be on sale starting on the 4th of March at Princess. They are prefect for securing the brake lines.

[Grant Bowker]

The route looks OK.
Yes, there would have been grommets (talk with Brian Asbury - he used to have them in felt, early ones may have been rubber).
Securing clips were used along the lines (and even if they hadn't been used originally I would put them on to ensure against vibration wearing through the line at any contact points you don't notice). Most surviving clips I've seen have been plain metal similar in shape to the photo.

[Jordan Baker]

Thanks guys for the comments. Headed back out to the shop

[Jordan Baker]

The long line to the rear went in just fine. I then got the ends marked up with a sharpiand then pulled the line out for putting the double flare. Thanks to the fact that the nickel copper line is very flexible things went well. Today I finished making up the rear lines. Everything went rather well and I’m quite pleased.

[Grant Bowker]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

Thanks to the fact that the nickel copper line is very flexible things went well.

Looks good, sounds like you didn't find it too bad.
It sounds like you may have partly unbent the line to remove for flaring and then re-bent on re-install? If so, be careful of how many times you bend in the same place. Two factors to consider: work-hardening may make your life harder by making the line more difficult to bend where it has already been bent a couple of times and excessive bend cycles will weaken almost any material. That said, 3 bends (2 in, 1 out) probably won't have large effects.

[Jordan Baker]

Grant, I did think about the work hardening but they were fine.

Today I greased up the new front out wheel bearings. I ordered a pair of Timken 399a’s. They pressed in just fine. I also installed new hub seals.

Lastly I removed the front left steering knuckle for rebuilding. I’ll need to work out the inner axle seal and the felt for the seal.

One question on the rebuild of the knuckle. I’m planning on sandblasting the outer part but what should I do about the polished surface where there is some rust? I don’t feel that sandblasting is the best