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Best regards, Hanno
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Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
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Wow....
Thank you for all of the replies. The response is nothing short of incredible. After a 15 year hiatus from MV's, its nice to come back and see so many people supporting it. Where I do I submit a donation to keep the server from going offline ![]() The collection of pictures is a massive help. From what I have seen so far in a couple of dozen photos, is that almost no two are exactly the same when it comes to paint, markings etc. I'd imagine at the Unit level there was some standard, but outside of that, its a mixed bag. With regards to Mikes A2, the source for my resto, i'm going to go ahead with my plan for 22 Fd Sqn marking. If I can find anything under the paint relating to CFE, I may go that route. At the end of the Day, a Sapper is going drive a Sappers Vehicle ![]() Mike and I discussed at length the number of these that were painted in the 2 Color, Black and Green Cam Pattern. My goal is to project this little rig in the most likely state it would have been in, so this may be the route i'll go. Rob, much appreciated the info on paint. Wasn't sure about the CARC, I started in the early 90s, so I wasn't entirely sure when it came into existence. Your right about the issues with handling it, no change there even today. When I first joined we wondered what it meant and why it was stenciled on everything. Hanno, I may approach you for assistance on getting the CFR once I have more info. My goal is to ensure that everything that goes back into this unit originally came throught the CF supply system where at all possible. So if your sitting on A2 parts, I may be dropping you a line ![]() Whats the best route for getting this back to bare metal? Would it be too risky to sandblast it? Thanks again Scotty B
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Gone but never forgotten: Sgt Shane Stachnik, Killed in Action on 3 Sept 2006, Panjwaii Afghanistan |
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Sandblasting has it's advantages and disadvantages. It will certainly find the weaknesses in the body: ie rust. Thats a good thing. Once sandblasted, the metal is ready to patch. But don't leave the metal bare for more than a day or two or it will start to rust.
The biggest problem with sandblasting it that you will strip bare areas where you can't get the paint back into. Underneath the vehicle, you will also remove what little Zeibart remains. Regarding the "unit level" standards, the standards were actually dictated both in the FMC standing orders, and later in the Brigade standing orders. Units were supposed to follow these guidlelines, but of course, with the long chains of commands, they could get distorted on the way down. I know in the last unit I was in, I ordered a few hundred of the red Canada Flags to install on our vehicles as per the Brigade orders. The installation was nixed by slightly higher up (MWO) who felt the red was not a desirable colour on the cammed vehicles. I would strongly recommend using the cam pattern as shown and attempting to get the 3 colours as close as possible. Any "2 colour" cam jobs were simply a failure in the chain at either getting the proper information or paint to the users level. I have also seen a few pieces in museums where the restorer's just painted away, without researching the proper paint schemes. It does the history of the vehicles a dis-service IMHO. |
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Regards, Hanno http://www.geocities.com/fordm151/
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Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
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As can be seen by some of the numbers I gave Hanno to use on his site, while the CFRs are sequential (09151, 09152, 09153) their serial numbers (43882, 43728, 43839) are nowhere near sequential. |
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I know where your coming from regarding the paint. I just find it interesting though, how few actually got painted correctly. Its not surprising considering we used to make our own Tac Sign and C/S Stencils right in our lines. It was often done as part of "Extra Duties"
![]() I'm still exploring the options for stripping the body. I have battled rust on every Jeep i've ever owned. I really want to make sure that there is no trace left on the Tub prior to paint, and also identify any "hidden" repairs that may need to be done to the skin. Aside from Sandblasting, I can't think of any other economic way. I used Wire Wheels with a 5" Grinder on my last project, and it was extremely time consuming and dirty. The thought of dropping it off to a pro who is setup for it, is kind of appealing. I'm trying to find a local shop who does the odd classic car and understands the end state for the Body. I will try and expose some markings in the key areas, prior to blasting it mind you. Any of the cold working Dolly and Hammer repairs I can do to the body would be prior to Sandblasting eg, pounding out small dents and minor straightening. Anything requiring heat, cutting and welding would be done at the shop right after Sandblasting. That would be followed by Red Oxide Priming and an OD Base Coat. Whats the opinion on Crown Spraying? That was my plan for protecting it in the hard to reach areas after the Ziebart is blown away. As for a CFR, hopefully I can find something somewhere on either of the 2, and i'll go from there. I don't want to end up duplicating someone thats all.
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Gone but never forgotten: Sgt Shane Stachnik, Killed in Action on 3 Sept 2006, Panjwaii Afghanistan |
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Gone but never forgotten: Sgt Shane Stachnik, Killed in Action on 3 Sept 2006, Panjwaii Afghanistan |
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![]() As Rob pointed out, this must be an example of the 3-colour camouflage pattern being distorted in the chain of command to a 2-colour cam job. Anyway, it gives you a good idea of the M151A2 in Canadian service and is copied here form Verlinden's book as a soure of inspiration. I have looked high and low, but I could not find other pics of M151A2's in Canadian service than those shown here (or in the links). Regards, Hanno Quote:
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Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
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I know in my case paint is probably a long time off yet as I don't have the facilities here to start this, but as they say, "The Devil is in the details", which is why i'm trying to hoard info and research now so everything goes fairly smooth later on.
When it comes to the paint scheme its tricky. I understand where Rob is coming from with what is correct, but from everything i've seen so far, more often than not, they were not correct. My goal is to produce a "While in Service" rather than an "As Issued" resto, so its a tough call for me. At the end of the day, I don't want someone who spent a significant part of their career in one of these coming up to me asking why its painted the way it is. My decision is no where close to being final. |
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And at the end of the day, it´s your truck, so you can paint and mark it up in the way you feel is most appropriate. Judging by what you have written here alone, no-one can claim you did not do you homework and slapped on the first tin of army green paint you came across. H.
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Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
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Last time I checked I was!
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My Militia unit (Sherbrooke Hussars) was issued two M151 Jeeps. We called from "Seventy-Four Pattern Jeeps", to differentiate from the "Sixty-Seven Pattern Jeeps" we had in abundance. Where the name Mutt came from is beyond me. Probably some ad copy writer's nickname that appeared on a pamphlet another writer kept and repeated. So in your case, you don't have an M151A2 or a Mutt. Your Jeep is a 74-Pattern.
Your CFR may be repeated with decals under the paint on the dash. The 74-Pattern was a soft ride compared to the 67-Pattern and easier to get up on two wheels. We never rolled any of our while I was in, but there were more accidents with the 67-Patterns. We all thought the big roll cage was an abomination when we saw it for the first time. The front seat is adjustable which is a good thing. The hood flat for sitting a two-burner stove on or sleeping or giving orders, but not for copying map traces. Too many ridges in the sheet metal. The four-wheel independant suspension meant they were easier to bottom out cross country. The glove box and tool kit weren't very handy as I remember. There isn't a lip around the rear cargo area, so stuff could slide out more easily. Having the tarp and side curtains on was good thing to not lose stuff. Thanks Rob for posting the cam' painting diagram and paint codes. They will come in handy for my 67-Pattern.
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Terry Warner - 74-????? M151A2 - 70-08876 M38A1 - 53-71233 M100CDN trailer Beware! The Green Disease walks among us! |
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Hello,
I have some photos of the M15 in Moose Jaw sitting in front of the armoury. |
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Hi- having restored 3or 4 ex army vehicles in my time in my opinion it is not necessary to sandblast -I would prefer a good wire brushing -what is left will probably be as good as anything you will put over it -also these were not Cadillacs so a prefect finish is probably out of place -I would suggest you use a two part primer and put the finish coat on within a couple of days or you should sand the primer - for the floor inside I used the truck box liner stuff with the paint so it is not noticeable but it stands up -I made a rotissery for my mutt which hooks to my hoist so I was able to roll it anound by myself -saved a lot of trouble -for a finish underneath I used Can Tire black tarry spray cans -I store the mutt in a shed so I hope it will tast forever-we are blessed here with back roads to drive these things -a necessity for full enjoyment - Greg
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I see three colors in the cam job shown in your illustration. The olive drab is on the front cowl as it should be, and the forest green is at the rear half of the driver's opening. Text book cam job (on the side anyway). |
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Here is an image of an M151A2 leading the division roll-past during Exercise RV81.
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Thanks again Ed.. Much appreciated. Any relation to Ralph?
Rob, I was reading some of your older posts about the paint colors. Were you able to find a source in Canada at a reasonable price? I see Willys Acres sells paint, and is willing to bring in other codes other than the WWII stuff. Anyone ever bought those paint codes from him?
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Gone but never forgotten: Sgt Shane Stachnik, Killed in Action on 3 Sept 2006, Panjwaii Afghanistan |
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Thanks for pointing this out! Shows how easy it is to mistake a 3-colour for a 2-colour camouflage job. Had a close look at the cam pattern for the Cdn 1/4 ton vehicles. From this I deduct left and right sides were supposed to have the same pattern, right? Thanks, Hanno
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Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
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Any input on the Crown Spray? I suppose I could have Ziebart Re-applied after the resto. |
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This Jeep has had the typical light armoured recce modifications to it. These include the wire cutter bar on the front bumper, and the GPMG mount on the right side. It also has the IKEE (Installation kit, electrical equipment) for the 524 set). The "support our troops cadpat magnet on the left corner is not an official marking. The bent fenders, while not an official light recce modification, were pretty much standard on all the recce jeeps after 15 years of hard service. Anyway, this is the textbook 3 colour "by the book" Cdn cam job. ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by rob love; 14-08-08 at 15:09. |
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