fuel problems

[BSHEVLIN]

i am currently having fuel problems with my Australian 2 Pdr carrier.
i still haven,t managed to work out what is wrong ?
fuel isn;t even making it to the pump it is the mechanical type.

1.fuel lines are clean
2.filter is clean
3.pump has good diafram and not blocked
4.engine starts when fuel in carby.
5.and many other ideas from ford v8 side valve owners.


anybody in the world wide brain trust have any ideas ?

and is their anybody out their who knows where i could source a 6vlt pump if all else fails in Victoria.
also seeking 6vlt fans for radiator


PS i located 4 fox/rhino armoured car chassis in rual victoria this week.

and on a Seperate propertys- many blitz,s not yet discovered by collectors ect the owners said all runners. undecided if he will sell them.

[Mike K]

hi Brenton

Sometimes , the push rod that pushes the diaphram arm is not long enough ... I've heard about this problem from Fraud V8 owners .... Take the pump off and watch the push rod come up as you turn the motor over .. is it high enough ? Just a suggestion.. I may be wrong .

Or, it may be a leaky or weak valve in the pump itself .

A 6 volt auto pulse is what you need ... it was fitted on Ford Blitz's in Hot climates

Mike

[Lynn Eades]

Is it sucking air at your change over tap (or anywhere else on the suction side of the pump.)(flexible hose etc) When you say the diaphragm is good, is it O.K. with modern fuel? Wet the valves in your pump and then put a vacuum gauge on it. It should suck about 15" to 18" of mercury. The delivery should be about 2-2 1/2 psi (which is controlled by the spring) If it does that, and holds it, then work back down your lines, as per my first comments.
That should give you something to think about.

[BSHEVLIN]

It Had A New Diaphram Fitted From A Modern Vehicle A Week Or 2 Ago. Hoped That Would Solve My Problem As The One Originally Fitted Was Okay But Seen Better Days .

[Bob McNeill]

6 volt pumps available from Midel in sydney check out www.sumidel.com they make and repair su fuel pumps and carby,s

[Mike K]

Found this on WIKI refering to Ford S.V. V8 motors

The fuel pump was mounted centrally atop the rear of the engine, driven by a reciprocating pushrod from a lobe on the camshaft. High milage engines were subject to pushrod wear that affected fuel delivery, corrected by the addtion of a simple aftermarket cap to the pushrod.Mike

[JackM]

If you can't find the problem after checking the possibilities already given by Mike and Lynn, have a look at the pick up pipe in the fuel tank - it may well have been broken or become dislodged.


Jack

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Mike Kelly

Found this on WIKI refering to Ford S.V. V8 motors

The fuel pump was mounted centrally atop the rear of the engine, driven by a reciprocating pushrod from a lobe on the camshaft. High milage engines were subject to pushrod wear that affected fuel delivery, corrected by the addtion of a simple aftermarket cap to the pushrod.Mike

This was a common problem with the old flat heads..I used to braze a layer of brass on top of the push rod..it dosen't take much..an extra 35 to 40 thousands of brass on the push rod will make all the difference in the world..a air leak on the suction side of the pump is another possibility..as previously mentioned.

[BSHEVLIN]

Originally Posted by Jack M

If you can't find the problem after checking the possibilities already given by Mike and Lynn, have a look at the pick up pipe in the fuel tank - it may well have been broken or become dislodged.


Jack

THE FUEL TANK IS CURRENTLY DISCONNECTED AS GETTING A SMALL CRACK WELDED UP. I CANT FEEL ANYTHING SUCKING UP THE HOSE IF ANYBODY IS GOING TO BE IN THE PUCKA AREA TOMORROW CALL IN TO THE MUSEUM AND AS I WILL BE WORKING ON THE BEAST TRYING TO FIX THIS MYSTERY PROB THAT HAS ELUDED ME FOR SEVERAL WEEKS.

[Mike K]

Some background and ideas here for 'hotting up' your Ford

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Flathead_engine

Mike

[colin jones]

Hi Brenton, Here's the answer. Get one of those tank mechanics to look at it for you.
Colin.

[BSHEVLIN]

Originally Posted by Colin Jones

Hi Brenton, Here's the answer. Get one of those tank mechanics to look at it for you.
Colin.

they are all civilian contractors, they all work for Tenix.

[BSHEVLIN]

Originally Posted by Bob McNeil

6 volt pumps available from Midel in Sydney check out WWW.sumidel.com they make and repair so fuel pumps and carby

Cheers for that Bob i might get one of those if all else fails

[BSHEVLIN]

Originally Posted by JackM

If you can't find the problem after checking the possibilities already given by Mike and Lynn, have a look at the pick up pipe in the fuel tank - it may well have been broken or become dislodged.Jack

fuel tank is good and is currently not hooked up due to maintenance in that area .

[David DeWeese]

Hello,
I had a very similar problem with a 1934 Ford car I restored last year in that the replacement fuel pump would not suck a drop of fuel out of the tank. Clean tank and fuel lines. Drove me crazy until I found the culprit.
The reproduction pump had a cork gasket installed that allowed just enough vacuum to slip by to keep the pump from working properly. Replaced the cork gasket with a rubber one and problem solved!
May be not your problem, but might be something to look for.
Thanks, David

[BSHEVLIN]

i have discovered that the push rod for pump is not working properly how do i go about fixing this ?

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by BSHEVLIN

i have discovered that the push rod for pump is not working properly how do i go about fixing this ?

I already explained the push rod fix in this thread..
here it is again..You do not say what the problem with the push rod is but I can guess that it is worn...like most flat head Ford fuel pump rods..


This was a common problem with the old flat heads..I used to braze a layer of brass on top of the push rod..it dosen't take much..an extra 35 to 40 thousands of brass on the push rod will make all the difference in the world..a air leak on the suction side of the pump is another possibility..as previously mentioned.

[Phil Waterman]

Alex is correct about the fuel push rod wearing and not making a full stroke. This was a very common problem with FORD V8s as a kid playing with hot rods we found that it was more often a problem then not. It would often result in fuel starvation at full throttle. It was very common to find push rods had already had the treatment before. We would generally fix the problem by brazing as Alex suggests. However we also generally added an electric fuel pump back by the tank on a separate switch but hooked to the ignition so that the fuel system could be primed without having to crank the engine to get fuel to the carb. Makes a big difference on starting, also helps cure vapor lock as well because the pump down by the tank can push the vapor bubbles through when the mechanical pump is not able to clear them. The reason for the separate switch was because it was hard then (then as now)to find an electric fuel pump with the lower pressure range 3-4 psi instead of the 6-8 psi of most electric pumps. The higher pressure is great from priming or clearing vapor lock but can cause flooding.

[Lynn Eades]

Phil, I have read somewhere recently, that the Ford V8 range of carbs should be delivered a maximum of 2 1/2 psi. there are fuel pressure regulators available. Alfa Romeo use one called a "Fisba' or something like that. I have no personal experience with them. A point to be remembered is that the pump delivery pressure is dictated wholely and soley by the spring in the pump.

[Grant Bowker]

I have just searched Macs Auto Parts web site for "fuel pump push rod" - they list 4 lengths:
60 HP Aluminum intake 5-3/8"
60 HP Iron intake 6-3/8"
All other V8 Aluminum intake 7.87"
All other V8 Iron intake 8.87"
Since the 60HP are measured in fractional inches, I wonder if the others are a truncated measurement since 7/8"=.875".
This should give something to compare your pushrod to to see if it is worn.

[jim sewell]

To check for air leaks in pick up lines and taps , check the vacuum with the engine running at the inlet of the pump and check it again at the outlet from the tanks .
Readings should similar . To carry out the test run the engine off a gravity can.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Is it sucking air at your change over tap (or anywhere else on the suction side of the pump.)(flexible hose etc) When you say the diaphragm is good, is it O.K. with modern fuel? Wet the valves in your pump and then put a vacuum gauge on it. It should suck about 15" to 18" of mercury. The delivery should be about 2-2 1/2 psi (which is controlled by the spring) If it does that, and holds it, then work back down your lines, as per my first

Regards
Jim S.

[Howard]

I had all sorts of trouble with my fuel pump, I put a full kit through it & it still would'nt suck up from the tank. The problem? The pump housing was cracked. Almost invisible... I replaced housing and away she went. I hope this helps rather than hinders...!

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Howard

I had all sorts of trouble with my fuel pump, I put a full kit through it & still would suck up from the tank. The problem? The pump housing was cracked. Almost invisible... I replaced housing and away she went. I hope this helps rather than hinders...!

Yes, it wouldn't even run the 5 cylinders then available. I have some footage of Tony working on it.

[BSHEVLIN]

i finally worked out hat the seal was leaking air and is now fixed and running well. should have the carrier to a running / driving state again buy the end of the week

thank for the help - credit to you all -