How to restor Gauges?

[sth65pac]

Eric,

Being a late model CMP, Common Spares were employed, (EG Chev, Ford, Dodge, Jeep, GMC, Diamond etc) and these these instruments are Stewart Warner http://stewartwarner.com/ Note Impedence and/or resisitance must be known for each circuit, and its respective detector, as they vary from each truck circuit variety, BUT can be corrected. (Bob..... I am Keeping it simple) It mentions this on the S.W. website, with respect to fuel systems.

You are fortunate as you can get replacement parts from them OR New Old Stock which share commonality with many trucks. If they have a NSN you might trace that to New Old Stock or a Surplus set.

If the mechanism is ok behind the dial you have the task of repainting (or getting a repaint) done. The dial may be available from S.W.

If the mechanism is totally destroyed then S.W. may have that too, otherwise New Old Stock parts, again, may help.

(That is the Very Short version of a rather long winded answer).

Ian

[NORTH-SHORE(CANADA)]

Hi,
Most of the gauges is in a good condition but I have to test it to confirm and on the back of the gauges some said GM

[sth65pac]

Hmm,

well Bob & I have had a long discussion about this, there is a machine that can do the job, But they are few and far between.

Basically the stainless (or steel) ring around the instrument is rolled on (or, in some cases squeezed on) in the manufacture. The machine that undoes this process is owned by a select few.

If you need to get an instrument apart, you MAY find an aircraft instrument repairer, or a motorcycle instrument repairer, has the tool. I would enquire first, so that the instruments do not suffer any damage by someone trying to please your request to get the items apart.

When I was in the Navy, we used to use the tool to fix aircraft instruments, but someone threw the tool away as they were not used enough... (No comment on that).

The removal tool looks a bit like an old fashioned can-opener with a peg, instead of a cutter, which you prise under the edge of the clamp and then turn the handle, the ring around the outside is relieved from the edge of the instrument. A tricky machine, I have thought about trying to make one..

If I could get my hands on one, I would be a very busy fellow, they are a godsend as far as repairs go.

I have never done this, but if you were to carefully slice the retaining ring in half, you would be able to get teh instrument apart, but then you would have an obvious cut on the ring!

Ian

[NORTH-SHORE(CANADA)]

Hi,
How to remove the arrow

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi Ian - all good advice. Until I can get my hands on one of these "can openers" a small screwdriver will suffice. Fortunately the "steel ring" as you describe it, I call it a bezel, is thin gauge metal and is easily bent. Just work with the screwdriver around the bezel where it contacts onto the housing and pry the metal away in small increments. Eventually that area will be straight enough to remove the bezel and glass. To replace simply use pliers to bent the metal back around the instrument.
Bob

[NORTH-SHORE(CANADA)]

Hi Bob,
That what i use a small screwdriver and it work well but now how to remouve the arrow

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi Eric - just be careful and don't exert too much pressure on anything. To remove the needles (arrows) I grasp the needle shaft with a pair of pointed nosed pliers and then twist the needle backwards and forwards until it comes off the shaft. This is very delicate and I have twisted of several shafts as the needle was frozen onto it. When replacing, again grasp the shaft with the pliers, position the needle onto the shaft and gently tap it back on. You need to hold the shaft as the tapping may damage the shaft seat. I have replicated the speedometer face through another decal so that is available. Looking at your bravery has inspired me to re-visit the gauges.

Bob

[sth65pac]

Bob & everyonne else,

You can also make up a 'needle fork'. Get a conventional fork cut the two outer tynes off, and bend the two inner tynes very close together, allowing a small slot of about 1-2mm to exist between the two tynes.

Use a cheap, pressed sheet, flat tyned fork, is the best bet as it provides the most pressure on the inside of the needle on the shaft. Not Granny's heirloom silver forks with the rounded points.

Make these tynes so close, that you can only slide them around a shaft, then the circular part of the needle (mounting bit where the shaft goes through) can be used as a purchase point behind the needle.

When removing the needle, slide the fork behind the needle rest the tynes against the circular part in the centre, and pull vertically. It will save you twisting shafts..

Ian.

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi Ian - Ada is out today so I'll hunt around for a fork. Re. pliers usage, I only use them to grasp the shaft, usually between the face plate mounting bracket and the magnetic drive. This way there is no pressure exerted on the needle shaft drive train and the needle callibration spring.

Bob

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by sth65pac

Use a cheap, pressed sheet, flat tyned fork, is the best bet as it provides the most pressure on the inside of the needle on the shaft. Not Granny's heirloom silver forks with the rounded points.

I wish you'd warned me earlier! I've gone and buggered Nan's best cutlery!