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  #1  
Old 29-12-08, 23:39
sth65pac's Avatar
sth65pac sth65pac is offline
Ian Williams
 
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Default Alternative to pliers removing Instrument pointers

Bob & everyonne else,

You can also make up a 'needle fork'. Get a conventional fork cut the two outer tynes off, and bend the two inner tynes very close together, allowing a small slot of about 1-2mm to exist between the two tynes.

Use a cheap, pressed sheet, flat tyned fork, is the best bet as it provides the most pressure on the inside of the needle on the shaft. Not Granny's heirloom silver forks with the rounded points.

Make these tynes so close, that you can only slide them around a shaft, then the circular part of the needle (mounting bit where the shaft goes through) can be used as a purchase point behind the needle.

When removing the needle, slide the fork behind the needle rest the tynes against the circular part in the centre, and pull vertically. It will save you twisting shafts..

Ian.
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  #2  
Old 30-12-08, 00:46
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Default Pliers Usage

Hi Ian - Ada is out today so I'll hunt around for a fork. Re. pliers usage, I only use them to grasp the shaft, usually between the face plate mounting bracket and the magnetic drive. This way there is no pressure exerted on the needle shaft drive train and the needle callibration spring.

Bob
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Old 30-12-08, 03:02
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sth65pac View Post
Use a cheap, pressed sheet, flat tyned fork, is the best bet as it provides the most pressure on the inside of the needle on the shaft. Not Granny's heirloom silver forks with the rounded points.
I wish you'd warned me earlier! I've gone and buggered Nan's best cutlery!

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  #4  
Old 30-12-08, 03:58
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Default Faaawwwk!!

Hi all - I am having trouble getting the prongs close enough together.

Bob
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  #5  
Old 30-12-08, 05:45
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Keith Webb Keith Webb is offline
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Default Lance

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Moseley View Post
Hi all - I am having trouble getting the prongs close enough together.

Bob
Bob, isn't that your best crow-lance?
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  #6  
Old 30-12-08, 11:11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Moseley View Post
Hi all - I am having trouble getting the prongs close enough together.

Bob
Hi Bob,
What kind of guages you restoring with that one
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  #7  
Old 30-12-08, 13:45
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South Australia (and Vic) have 5'3" Broad Gauge.
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  #8  
Old 30-12-08, 17:32
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Terry Warner
 
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Default instrument gauges; not forks or track gauges

Oh brother!

There are classic car restorers who have worked on this problem before. Maybe their forums will be more serious!
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  #9  
Old 31-12-08, 00:33
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Default speedos

I've pulled apart various speedos .. series 1 Land rover, Jeep, Morris Commercial ... to remove the needle .. I use a pair of scissors .. I carefully place the tips beneath the needle , at its hub , apply upward levering pressure

The needle flies off with some force , and I've lost a couple of them as it flew off somewhere .

That's interesting about Stewart Warner ... the contemporary Jeep gauges look similar, but are different apparently. SW was a GM owned company I think ? A Jeep ammeter would suffice as it's a generic instrument . Fuel gauge would be tricky ... has to be matched to the Chevy sender unit .
Mike
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