Cleaning steel brake pipes or tubes inside... how??

Keith Webb · #1 23-01-09, 12:53

Euan has made new pipes for Chris' F15 brake as well as fuel. They even have the correct covering where necessary and are all double flared using all new material.

We worked using the old ones as patterns, then double checking bends through test-fitting.

Modern bundy tube is quite malleable.

I've heard because brake fluid absorbs moisture it can rust from the inside.

Grant Bowker · #2 23-01-09, 14:23

Almost everyone agrees that brakes need to be taken seriously. In that vein, if the pipes have begun to deteriorate they will continue. You need to decide if the fact that they haven't burst in the 60 years since the truck was built means that they won't fail while you are driving.
For replacement lines you have several choices. Standard lines of coated steel are cheaper, fairly easy to form but if the coating is damaged may be prone to rust. Stainless line is very rust resistant but usually is more difficult to form curves and flares. I've never seen the cunifer alloy lines but they have a reputation for for easy forming and very good rust resistance.
My thoughts are influenced by living in the road salt capital of Canada. I know I intend to replace the lines on my trucks as I get to the brake system because I don't trust myself to be able to clean the lines to 100% or trust the old lines not to fail when I need them most.
If you are confident of the strength of the line, consider plugging one end of the line and pouring in your choice of solvent (new brake fluid, brake cleaner, meths, etc) and letting it sit to soften the gunge. It might take more than one try but once there's even a small passage through the line time is your friend for the solvent action.

cletrac (RIP) · #3 23-01-09, 15:54

I'd try that aerosol brake cleaner then compressed air. If you do that a few times then use some brake fluid then compressed air it should get rid of the gunk.

Bob McNeill · #4 24-01-09, 11:16

Try cleaning the pipe using bowden cable, old pushbike brake cable, feed it in spin it in the drill, use it like a rifle pull thru. New pipe is safest.

Howard · #5 24-01-09, 11:41

Although I am not in a rust prone area, I intend to replace all brake pipe.
I just bought 2x 7 metre rolls of 1/4 'bundy' pipe & a couple of handfulls of flare nuts for around $190. This way I know it will be right!

Bob Moseley (RIP) · #6 24-01-09, 13:34

Hi Ian - don't waste time and effort trying to restore those. Go new with either a brake shop or get Howard to make you a set.

Bob

sth65pac · #7 25-01-09, 06:44

Well:

Here are the pipes and as you can all now see the rear main and front chassis rail/ frame tubes are cactus.

Petrol cleans all the grease off them, but you have to be careful not to get it inside the tubes as it reacts with brake fluid... mind you the score is 1-3 with one pipe salvageable.

As you can see the rear main pipe was extremely pitted, and I managed to snap it on removal. It was good experience, as I was unsure if the pipes were pre-bent. It appears that by & large they are not except for a few tight radius's.

Having a 7/16 flare nut spanner will allow me to get the remaining unions undone. I feel like I am going backwards in destruct-a-tation, not forwards in restoration.

Howard; Fancy a weekend at the beach??? Bring your pipe, swaging tools, tube & family..

.

Ian