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#1
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IM not sure how different the steering setup is in Aussie Carriers vs Cnd ones. On mine I had brake problems and it was due to worn out brake pads. The pads were about 1/8" thick. When I took the drums off I found that someone had brazzed on about 3/8" onto the brake pistons/actuators to give the pads more life.
I ended up installing NOS pads with all the parts set backout to the maximum as this just allowed me to get the drums on. This made a huge difference. After I did that I figured I should rebuild the linkages so I pulled out each component and rebuilt them one at a time. Now my Carrier turns as its supposed to. I would recommend you check your pads and rebuilt them and then redo all the linkages and set them back to the specs in the manual. Those steps you listed were done for a reason.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#2
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ONe more thing. Check your track tension. If one or both tracks are loose then your steering is effected big time. Its way more noticable on grass then hard surfaces.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#3
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Gidday Jordan,
Thanks for the reply. I actually referred to one of your old posts in my searches. You were asking then about the length of the brake rods up near the bell cranks. This carrier was restored from the bottom up by the previous owner. I'd be surprised if he put in worn brake pads but I guess one can't be sure without having a look. The track tension seems okay. Can you answer the question about movement of the brake operating lever by hand? Thanks Darryl |
#4
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The problem is that I know nothing about Aust. Carriers other then they share the same basic vehicle concept.
Not too sure what you mean by "brake operating lever by hand" and its movement. Well if you think everything is in regards to the linkages then leave them. It could simply be track tension. On Cnd carriers a quick way to test tension is to clench your fist. Then where the track sags the most under the fender place your hand. if the gap is wider then your hand your track is too loose. If its a bit less then you track is fine. If its a lot less then your track is too tight. However that would then mean that your UC shoudl turn realy well. Perhaps also your brake pads got some oil/grease leaking onto them. That would easily cause poor brakeing. Does it do this all the time even from a "cold" sitting. You can loose your brakes (steering) somewhat if your drums heat up and expand. Still think the best way is for you to physically check out all of the specs and compare them to the manual. Take your hubs off and check the pads. if you have the tools or can borrow it should only take 1/2 a days work.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
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