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  #1  
Old 04-02-09, 01:57
Jim Price's Avatar
Jim Price Jim Price is offline
'40 Ford F8, 4 x 2
 
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Location: Chandler, Arizona U.S.A.
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Ross,
I went the 12 volt route on my F8 and am quite satisfied with the results. I am still using the 6 volt starter. If you don't turn it over for any length of time, it will work just fine.

As for the distributor, it should work just fine in the 12 volt mode. However, if you want an electronic system, Mallory has several different ones for early Ford/Mercury engines.
There's a booklet out on US eBay for 6 to 12 volt conversions. I bouth it and it was quite helpful.

Best of luck!

Regards,
Jim
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  #2  
Old 04-02-09, 07:14
rossbart rossbart is offline
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Default Ross Bartling

Actually, I am in Oklahoma USA. Just purchased this carrier. It was in Northern Illinois but I understand it had been in Wisconsin previously. I just picked it up over the weekend and was trying to size up what I had bought sight unseen. It would start 'okay' but not great but just didn't seem to have any power. I noted that it had a 12v battery and original 'looking' generator. Wasn't sure about regulator or coil. But, I noticed that after literally a minute of runtime that the coil was super hot. I checked the voltage at battery (which was around 12v) and at the coil which was, also, about 12 volts. I guessed that it was a 6v coil and wondered if it needed a resistor. Not finding one I just tried wiring one in and with the resistor the voltage at the coil dropped to 6 volts, the coil stopped being hot and the carrier runs totally different.

I think I may have fixed it. Replacing the coil would probably be a good idea still as I have no idea how old it is or how hot it's been. But, for right now it seems to be better.

Thanks everyone for the help.

Ross
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  #3  
Old 04-02-09, 12:42
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Default Tony

1. No. its not the british distributor, its the third type dizzy(latest)and
2. its the capacitance of the condenser, that dictates whether your points burn out. the condenser needs to match the coil (what ever voltage it happens to be) If the capacitance of the condenser is too high, or too low (measured in micro farads) metal transfers from one contact to the other.Have you noticed how 6 volt systems seem to have large condensers, and 12volt systems, have small ones?

the main purpose of a resistor coil(or ballast resistor coil) is for ease of starting. for example a car that runs a 12volt system, with a ballast coil feeds its primary ignition system though the ballast resistor, reducing the voltage to around nine volts (essentially a 9 volt coil) When the key is in the start(cranking) position, the coil is fed directly with the full 12 volts, giving the spark a boost. when the key returns to the run position, the coil is once again fed 9 volts, having been dropped from 12volts, by the resistor.
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  #4  
Old 04-02-09, 14:35
Tony Smith's Avatar
Tony Smith Tony Smith is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynn Eades View Post
1. No. its not the british distributor, its the third type dizzy(latest)I think you might be right, Lynn. Ross' pics weren't too clear.

the main purpose of a resistor coil.... When the key is in the start(cranking) position, the coil is fed directly with the full 12 volts, giving the spark a boost. when the key returns to the run position, the coil is once again fed 9 volts, having been dropped from 12volts, by the resistor.
Actually, when the key is in the cranking position, the Starter draws current and the Batt voltage drops well below 12v, down to around voltage the coil operates on. If this was run through the resistor, the coil would be getting insufficient voltage.
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  #5  
Old 06-02-09, 07:03
rossbart rossbart is offline
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Default Ross Bartling

One more quick question:

I am not familiar with a positive ground system - this is my first. I appear to have everything running 12 volt (except coil which is resisted down to 6 volts. I want to add some 12 volt electric guages in this interim time so I can monitor water temp, oil pressure, etc.. On a positive ground system do I need to wire everything in reverse of what I'm used to with automotive and 12 volt negative ground? In other words, on the guages, do I need to ground the positive wire to chassis and the black wire to the battery negative circuit with an inline fuse on the battery negative circuit?

I would assume so but am certain that there is a vast storehouse of knowledge here that I'd like the benefit. Thanks for any help to the new carrier owner.

ROss
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  #6  
Old 06-02-09, 07:11
Jim Price's Avatar
Jim Price Jim Price is offline
'40 Ford F8, 4 x 2
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chandler, Arizona U.S.A.
Posts: 373
Default 6 to 12 volt conversion

Ross,
I used and recommend the booklet, "The Official 12-Volt Conversion Guide" by Randy Rundle. I picked it up on eBay. It was a lot of help!

Regards,
Jim
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  #7  
Old 06-02-09, 15:42
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Default Another source for the conversion guide booklet

http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/
Available here any time for $US10.00 plus the usual shipping etc., no need to wait for an auction. I haven't dealt with them but they've been advertising in Hemmings for quite a few years.
They also sell alternator pulleys to fit a variety of belt sizes and brackets to mount alternators to either Chev of Ford engines of the vintage used on CMPs.
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