New Member from the UK

RichardT10829 · #1 12-02-09, 20:15

some more pics.
tank needs a few holes plugged up

top engine cover, are the oval loops an after mod or something ?

RichardT10829 · #2 12-02-09, 20:16

Ledsel · #3 12-02-09, 22:13

You have a start. That muffler doesn't belong but the air filter is proper. Just give the carrier a good clean out when you get it and (DO NOT)

throw any thing out until you are finished with the restoration. Good luck.

P.S. What you should do when you get it is tow it around a field or somewhere for a bit, just to loosen up the track somewhat. It makes it a hell of a lot easier to work on and to replace them when they are a bit pliable. This is an Ontario carrier so I have a lot of experience when it comes to anything rusty.

Alex Blair (RIP) · #4 13-02-09, 15:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ledsel

You have a start. That muffler doesn't belong but the air filter is proper. Just give the carrier a good clean out when you get it and (DO NOT)

throw any thing out until you are finished with the restoration. Good luck.

P.S. What you should do when you get it is tow it around a field or somewhere for a bit, just to loosen up the track somewhat. It makes it a hell of a lot easier to work on and to replace them when they are a bit pliable. This is an Ontario carrier so I have a lot of experience when it comes to anything rusty.

Ledsel..
That canister with the three outlets that can be seen in the photo should have a fourth outlet..It is a heat exchanger for the arctic kit on a CMP .It was installed in the exhaust system just below the floor and hot air was piped up by the fan and blower to the windshield for defrost..a rare item ...
While not a 100% positive it looks familiar..

Ledsel · #5 13-02-09, 22:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex Blair

Ledsel..
That canister with the three outlets that can be seen in the photo should have a fourth outlet..It is a heat exchanger for the arctic kit on a CMP .It was installed in the exhaust system just below the floor and hot air was piped up by the fan and blower to the windshield for defrost..a rare item ...
While not a 100% positive it looks familiar..

Hey, that's good to know, That's what I mean when I say don't throw anything out. Even if you don't need it someone else mite.

RichardT10829 · #6 14-02-09, 10:01

bidding starts at £2000....hehehehe just kidding!

will need to drum up some help once the pickup date is finnaly aranged, to help Rob load it for me.

if flights were not so damned expensive i would do it myself.

ron · #7 12-02-09, 22:17

Morning Richard,
Thanks for posting your carrier pics, very interesting, feel free to ask any questions the boys in here are only to willing to help out in any way that they can,Jordon and Lyn and all of the other carrier men have a wealth of experence and little tips that will make your project much easier,When you get it home clean it out and get it sand blasted and a quick primer coat.that will lift your spirits, the dog can then see the rabbit,and you can see what you have,on a lighter note, dont worry about the holes in the petrol tank,as with the price of petrol in the U K, you wont want to fill them up anyway just fill them to the holes, just kidding, Richard enjoy your carrier and I admire the reason for your wanting to do it, My dad was at Mote Casino ,now that was a hell hole
Well done Regards Ron

RichardT10829 · #8 12-02-09, 22:47

cheers guys, she is all paid for now, Ledsel i have fallen into that trap when restoring 1960's Mk1 minis (the bits canbe hard to get) throwing what seems to be junk out only to find it wasnt !

everything will be catalogued photgraphed in situ prior to the tear down, center bulkhead removed, glacis removed basically a bare tub which i will media blast and red oxide prime to seal it. The guy selling it said one side is locked up and the track does not turn, i reckon it may be easier to pull the tracks rather than risk breaking something off trying to crack it free.... but i am open to suggestions. Kevin mentioned removing the drive shaft.

lots of plans for it, but need to know colour schemes etc all the trinkets will be cleaned primed and then pre coated.

ron · #9 13-02-09, 00:27

Hi Richard,
If it was me I would drop the track off when you get it. its far easier to move it around on wheels than tracks, if they are as bad as you say dont bother too much with them, you say that you have another set lined up so why bother with the old stuff just put it away for a rainy day,anyway putting it back on its tracks is one of the last things that you will have to contend with,we all do things in different ways but thats how I would approach it I have done a few over the years and its works for me,
Anyway good luck and congratulations I for one will watch your progress with much interest, Regards Ron

charlie fitton · #10 13-02-09, 14:44

Definately tow it around with the tracks ON. Otherwise you will just have a pile of siezed track and nothing to do with it.
Pull the axles first to avoid damage to the innards that are left.
If you don't want the track, don't ship it to the UK, I'll take it off yor hands, someday I'll make a gate guard with one of the last projects. Besides, it will be easier to load in a container.

Ledsel · #11 18-02-09, 04:10

that muffler that I siad didn't look like it belonged, dosen't. I found this on a snowmobile site.

RichardT10829 · #12 18-02-09, 17:41

cool. cheer ledsel

Ledsel · #13 13-02-09, 00:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardT10829

cheers guys, she is all paid for now, Ledsel i have fallen into that trap when restoring 1960's Mk1 minis (the bits canbe hard to get) throwing what seems to be junk out only to find it wasnt !

everything will be catalogued photgraphed in situ prior to the tear down, center bulkhead removed, glacis removed basically a bare tub which i will media blast and red oxide prime to seal it. The guy selling it said one side is locked up and the track does not turn, i reckon it may be easier to pull the tracks rather than risk breaking something off trying to crack it free.... but i am open to suggestions. Kevin mentioned removing the drive shaft.

lots of plans for it, but need to know colour schemes etc all the trinkets will be cleaned primed and then pre coated.

I have never seen the track itself break or even the pins from towing, Sometimes you have to give them a little bit of a whack here and there with a hammer to get them started. Heat works on something really stubborn but you have to be very careful as that makes it easy to twist a pin when it's hot. Your problem with one track is most likely rusted brake shoes, (stuck to the drum). Some proper pounding here is usually all it'll take. The steering linkage may have been pulled and the rocker shaft at the wheel mite need to be tapped to release it alittle. Anyway once you get it you'll be as happy as a p---- in s----.

Jordan Baker · #14 13-02-09, 01:15

Not sure if any of you noticed or not but the last picture posted has a cover on the steering cam plate.

Ive heard rumours of this but never actualy seen a preserved example. On a wrecked carrier we found bits of canvas and a bunch of lift the dot fastners but that was it.

When you get this carrier please take some pictures of this canvas part and make up some plans.

Ledsel · #15 13-02-09, 01:19

Yes Jordan, I had a canvas one on my MKII. I guess the MKI must have been leather. Would be nice to get a copy made off of that one as it looks to be all there.

tankbarrell · #16 13-02-09, 10:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ledsel

I have never seen the track itself break or even the pins from towing,

I have. In my limited carrier experience, I had a Windsor which I recovered from a playground. It had sat for many years and when the guy I sold it to came to collect it, the only way we could load it was to tow it on to his trailer. Despite it rolling ok when I unloaded it a few weeks earlier, several pins broke from twisting as we put in on the trailer.

It was only the pins though as they had rusted in to the links. The track itself was fine.