CMP fluids question ..........

Bob Carriere · #1 02-05-09, 15:13

Oil being the life line of your engine jokes would not be appropriate,

A lot has been written in the past 18 months in USA car club publications to that effect.

It seems that modern oil is really meant for modern engine and the chemical formulationhas changed. A number of car/truck nuts have noticed that particualrly with old engines being totally rebuilt they had trouble with burning lifters, rings not seating properly, etc ... to the point of accelerated wear or total breakdown.

The solution it seems is to use either diesel engine oil or high mileage oil sold for worn engines. These two oils seem to have retained some of the old formulation and include a higher zinc content and other elements that will soften some of the pounding.

Phil Waterman has some very interesting articles on the subject.

I currently have synthetic gas engine oil in my 261 Chev and will be changing for SHell Rotella 15 w / 40 diesel engine oil....... and it will actually save me money on the purchase.

In your case, if you switch to higly fluid synthetic engine oil in your Ford, you may want to check for leaks.

BooBee

Phil Waterman · #2 02-05-09, 16:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Oil being the life line of your engine jokes would not be appropriate,
.....
The solution it seems is to use either diesel engine oil or high mileage oil sold for worn engines. These two oils seem to have retained some of the old formulation and include a higher zinc content and other elements that will soften some of the pounding.

Phil Waterman has some very interesting articles on the subject.

...

BooBee

Hi Bob

I'll try and collect up the articles and post them week. When I do I'll post the links here.

Also got some information on temperature readings in various CMP components after hammering the truck around up hill and down and on the interstate. Which I will post.

Cheers Phil

Bob Carriere · #3 05-05-09, 03:06

Hi Phil

Just changed the oil on my truck....... filled with Rotella Diesel 15W 40.....

Glad I did..... the oil that was in had turned black like a diesel engine from over rich mixture...... now after 3 carburator ti si idling very well at low RPM with out the constant use of the choke... I have no idea what went wrong with the other carbs...... guest I will tear them down and reassemble carefully with new kits.....

Can you tell me.... where is the original drain plug on an original 216 oil pan..... ??

Mine on the 261 is directly above the front axle gear cluster..... I had to hold a funnel in one hand the whole time while draining the pan....

Note to anyone installing a 261 or 235 make sure you install a new drain plug on bottom left hand side when facing the front.... under the passenger side..

My crank case holds 8.5 liters with the two PH 8 screw on filters.....

With the vertical filter mount it is very convenient to prefill the filters before installing.

Could not get the temp to go over 150 on a new mechanical temp guage even after driving for 30 minutes across the back field.......

I now drive with the steam valve open all the time..... maybe that keeps it cooler....... if I drive for a while with the valve closed..... when you open it a whole bunch of air/bubbles can be seen in the clear vinyl tubing currently and temporarily in place.....

Cheers

Bob

.....and the rear wheels fling mud quite decoratively in 2 wheel drive....

hrpearce · #4 05-05-09, 06:48

Bob the drain plug is centre rear of sump

See Fig. 1 Section K of MB-C1

Bob Carriere · #5 05-05-09, 15:55

Thanks Robert

That explains why I had so much trouble with the 261 typically meant for a 2 wheel drive truck.

Phil Waterman · #6 05-05-09, 20:48

Hi Bob

Well as you know from Rob the original 216 CMP drain pan has the plug on the bottom center rear. Now for the fun 235-261 truck drain pans plugs on the US engines I have have the drain also at the rear center of the pan. My 261 though has a special heavy truck 4x4 pan that I found NOS which has the plug located at front center on the bottom of the sump. The sump is different shaped from the standard US truck. So I guess the answer is there are a number of variations.

Your over rich problem with the carb may be a float adjustment problem or a fuel pressure problem. (over pressure) Look at the fuel preasure spec first page of http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...e%20Manual.htm

I just got a full rebuild kit for my 261 carb and discovered that the float was set to wrong. Engine has even more power now than when you last saw it.

Did loose one important feature in going to the 261 I lost my cruise control. With the 216 you could get on the highway and just put your foot on the floor and forget it. Now with the power of the 261 you actually have to control the speed of the truck.

Cheers Phil

Bob Carriere · #7 06-05-09, 02:37

HI Phil

The first carb I used was a NOS 261....never opened..... would not run without part choke.... which resulted in black exhaust coloring the winch drum.

The second was one of those NOS mid 60 carb that was sold on EBay.... got a pair of the early postings for $15 each..... when they ran out they were going for $100.......

First carb worked fine until it crapped out in the back field..... never would run smooth again.....

The third carb was the second NOS $15..... runs perfectly.... rioght out of the box.....

The first two did not seem to respond to adjustment form the idle valave screw... the 3rd one runs real smooth...... idles around 400 rpm.... need to get a proper low range tach......

Now get this..... it idles very low and steady at around -10 inch vacuum.....38 pounds oil never above 150 Degree F....... revs up real fast to about -22 inches vacuum.... Dizzy travels well with the vacuum advance..... at speed it reaches 42/44 on the oil.....

Should the vacuum be that low.....??

Old hot rod guy down the road has the old dwell meter gauge which I hope to coach him on showing me how to optimize the settings...

Any suggestions...?

I will need to install a massive spring on the throttle...... driving it on the back field gets very jumpy and my heavy boot keeps punching the accelarator.... that little sucker will spin all 4 wheels on wet grass/mud like crazy....... way too much torque and pep......

Bob