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#1
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... if the thermostat issue does not seem to make a significant improvement...... have you considered using a remote oil filter such as a double spin on PH 8 arrangement..... the two filters will give you an extra 1.5 quart of oil and with the filters remotelly installed inside the frame they will be in the airstream adding some cooling features. The cast aluminium remote filter brackets are usually available at flea markets as left over of the old hot rod days for $10-$20....... and you could also include a engine oil cooler for greater heat dissipation.
Don't forget that you new engine will have more friction has parts slowly settlle in place.... Enjoyed your posting.....good luck. BooBee
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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#2
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Hi all - I think ditching thermostats is the old wives tale. Go back to the grass roots of engine design where a need was assessed to incorporate thermostats. Sixty three years on the engine is not as efficient through the water flow areas. Fix that and you should have no problems. Ditching thermostats is using the same rationale as to converting to 12v electrics. If you replicate the wiring correctly and not use modern wiring, no problems. Millions of vehicles utilised thermostats and 6v. Modern day restorers should recognise these facts.
Bob
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Chevrolet Blitz Half-Track Replica - Finished and Running Ford F15 - unrestored Ford F15A X 2 - unrestored Website owner - salesmanbob.com |
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#3
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Quote:
Even when flatties were relatively new they were always on the verge of heating and too hot a day or too heavy a load would put them over the top. It's just the nature of the beast. Under these conditions you have to use any trick available to help out and you'll still have to watch the temp gauge.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 |
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#4
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Jim,
What fan are you using,& did you fit a fan shroud ? |
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#5
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Anthony,
The fan is the standard 4-bladed one and no, I don't have a shroud. I have considered a shroud but don't want to contrict the possible air flow around the mainfolds. A 6-bladed fan might be a better addition. I've considered all that's been said and believe that one of the two thermostats is not working properly. I recalled that when I tested them on the stove in a pot of water awhile back that one of them was slower to open than the other. I'm replacing them both with a pair of 160 F ones that came with the Mercury engine and are new. I also am considering adding an oil cooler to the system. (I am using a mono number weight oil, by the way.) Thanks to all for your contributions to my thread; keep them coming! Regards, Jim |
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#6
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Hi Jim,
I had overheating issues with the M20 armored car as well as the C8. In both cases I removed the thermostat and haven't had any problems with overheating or cold weather starting since then. I don't know about which is ultimately better, I just know that it worked for me. Chuck |
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#7
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Im not familiar with your vehicle, but the lack of a fan shroud may be part of the problem.
without a shroud, the air may "wash" around the ends of the fan blades, instead of drawing the air through the radiator.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
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