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#1
22-07-09, 01:42
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Just curious, no motor to offer you
If you are willing to consider a replacement motor that either "ran when removed from the vehicle" or "runs but needs work", why not get your present one rebuilt? There seem to be 10 flathead specialist rebulders for every Chev rebuilder. I've even found a shop that will sell you a newly cast block set up for 289CID displacement. Is it that you want to keep the present motor in the carrier until the new one is ready to drop in? Rob Clarke may be able to help you with a motor (not much known about the condition), the problem is that it is mounted in a truck that he'd probably want to sell you as a package.
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#2
22-07-09, 01:52
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Probably...
Quote:
There are two of the local folk with an interest in the truck, but so far no offers...
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RHC Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?
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#3
22-07-09, 02:05
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Ive thought about rebuilding the engine that I currently have. However it is a pre-war flathead from the 1932-36 models. I'd like to get a proper wartime looking one of the kind used in the carriers.
I don't mind at all having it rebuilt. Ive already got the carb, generator and a few other specific carrier parts that I would take off of this engine.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer
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#4
22-07-09, 02:19
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Rebuild
Quote:
I suggest you stick with what you have and rebuild it..At least you have a good block and a new set of over sized piston and rings will give you that little extra..make sure you have the heads boiled and cleaned out well in the water passages.. At least you know the block is good.. and every thing will fit back in..
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk:
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#5
22-07-09, 05:14
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The 32 to 38 was a 21 stud 85 hp flattie and it's my understanding that that's what the carriers came out with. I know that a lot of the ones you see have the 39 to 48, 24 stud 100 hp version like the CMPs had but they were replacements. You see some with a 49 and up replacement motor with the top distributor too.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2
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#6
22-07-09, 06:02
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Well Alex, my problem is that I may not have a good block. I had both water pumps go on this weekend at an event. The seals failed and were allowing the pumps to suck in lots of air and this in turn overpressurized the rad and caused lots of fluid loss. So i rebuilt the waterpumps and installed them today. Filled up the rad again with deinonized water and Engine started fine but after about 5 min I noticed white smoke coming from the exhuast. Checked underneath and there was water pissing from the drainage holes in the mufflers. So i checked the oil and it was a lovely shade of light grey. Unless a head gasket has gone I may have a craked block.
I'd still like to get the proper wartime style of flat head with the water pumps down low at the front and the water outlet centered at the top of the heads. As you can see my flat head is the early, early style.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer
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#7
22-07-09, 06:06
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This is the kind I am after.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer
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