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  #1  
Old 30-12-09, 07:19
oztankboy oztankboy is offline
Phil
 
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Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia!
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Hi there!
Well in the past I have used the modern replacment for AC sheeting or what was known as "fibro"... now refered to a fibercement sheeting... well thats what its called down in Australia. No longer contains asbestos. It looks like much like the asbestos sheeting and is easy to cut to shape and does the much the same job and the asbestos sheeting did. Thickness is about 1/4" or 6mm and i have picked up off cuts from building sites to do small jobs.

Phil...
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Inc:- 58 "gun buggy", 60 FFW, 70 FFW, 71 10 seater Wgn, 69 GS.
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  #2  
Old 30-12-09, 15:58
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammond, Ontario
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Default Just remembered......

....last time I was at SAILS, just outside Montreal, I purchased surplus asbestos mitts.... probably intended for foundry use..... brand new for about $10.00 they are made out of course wooven asbestos in one bulky piece and the one stiched seam could be undone quite readily.... total surface area about a square foot. It might be just enough to place over whatever commercial blanket such as Duramat and extend the temp. range enough to work for critical areas such as near the exhaust manifold/engine cover.

I do have some 1/4 inch rigid asbestos board but would be useless for sound deadening.

Boob
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  #3  
Old 31-12-09, 05:53
Ganmain Tony's Avatar
Ganmain Tony Ganmain Tony is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ganmain NSW Australia
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Default Interesting

Any idea on cost Greame?

Bob & Phil,

Suggestions that sound very interesting, any pictures?

Ive still got the old staples in my cab 12 engine covers, will that fibro cement stuff be able to be attached using the staples ?
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  #4  
Old 31-12-09, 09:28
oztankboy oztankboy is offline
Phil
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia!
Posts: 297
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Hi Tony!

Well it can be a little brittle but if you pre drilled the holes 1st you should be right. In the Aust Chev CMPs the sheeting was held in place with fold over tabs. If I was doing it I would also use use a product like "Sikaflex" as a form of glue to help it keep inplace.

Oh just as a word of warning dont be tempted to use any realy old "fibro" say at least pre mid 80's as the older it gets the greater the chance it will contain asbestos and it will also be breaking down with age.

Phil...
__________________
collection includes:-
Chev "BLITZ's" (CMP's)
Inc:- No.8 FGT, C8A HUW, C15, No.9 GCT (sold)
Milt Land Rovers
Inc:- 58 "gun buggy", 60 FFW, 70 FFW, 71 10 seater Wgn, 69 GS.
M3 Stuart Light Tank "hybrid"
FV1600 Humber FFW/cargo
Mk1 Ferret scout car (waiting restoration)
Various trailers
Inc:- K38, "Ben Hur" 1 ton, 200 Gal "Humber" water tank Tlr, Aust jeep, Landrover recovery.
Milt Radios
etc etc...
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  #5  
Old 03-01-10, 05:57
Ganmain Tony's Avatar
Ganmain Tony Ganmain Tony is offline
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Location: Ganmain NSW Australia
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Default Great info Phil

Beauty Phil

Thanks heaps I'm just about to embark on a heat sheilding solution. Will let you know what I eventually do.

F60L recent pics thread in softskin forum is the one to check out.

GT
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  #6  
Old 04-01-10, 21:46
david moore david moore is offline
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Location: Kingston, Ontario
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Default Cab 12 solution

My solution has been to leave the original asbestos board in place and cover it completely with wide alumunium duct tape. It adheres very well and keeps the asbestos under wraps - even maybe adds some more (reflective) heat insulation. The adhesive seems to hold up to the engine/exhaust heat.

I figure this is safer than fiddling with the million little staples to get the old asbestos off and breathing in the debris meanwhile.
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  #7  
Old 04-01-10, 22:43
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cletrac (RIP) cletrac (RIP) is offline
David Pope
 
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Location: Eston, Sask, Canada
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I figure you should remove the asbestos outside when there's a cross wind so you won't breathe any of it in.
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