![]() |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Here in the States they have been using 5-10 and even 20 ethanol for a number of years. When they first introduced it, there was a bout of engine failures. I suspect that many of these could be traced back to failure of the fuel pump diaphragm causing oil dilution. Also during the first couple of years a number of our MV Club members had problems with failures of fuel pumps, fuel lines, fuel gage and carb floats (plastic and cork) all caused by softening caused by the ethanol on rubber materials. I’ve also had one report of the old style yellow gas tank sealer being dissolved or softened to the point where it plugged the fuel filter.
I’ve got some photos of the problems that I can post if people are interested. Cheers Phil
__________________
Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com Last edited by Phil Waterman; 06-02-10 at 20:04. Reason: missing words |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
As I understand it, virtually all of our trucks will run on any of these fuel types without engine damage. In particular Dodge flatheads were based on a 1930's design that would run on fuel before they thought to start putting TEL in it, so no engine problems as such unless you are working it hard and revving it hard - not our thing really. Extra cost you will just have to put up with.
You will have problems with pump diaphragm, hose linings, tank sender gaskets, and so on, as the more aggressive fuel will just eat away at them. You should be able to source new reproduction hoses that will put up with it though. Don't forget the fuel filter top seals, as those have to work for the fuel to draw through. Most carb gaskets materials will be affected less as there was no 'rubber' in them to start with.
__________________
Gordon, in Scotland |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I was made aware of the potential rubber deterioration in fuel systems WRT ethanol fuel.
I just throw in some Lead Additive every second or third tankful and (hopefully) no worries.
__________________
PRONTO SENDS |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Jon, the lead additive is a good safety precaution but the ethanol is still in there. In the garage we only see problem vehicles of course but the number of older vehicles with fuel problems is increasing. Many vehicles we get to work on are almost impossible to find a carb or fuel pump kit for let alone find one with newer neoprene parts. Another alternative is to buy av gas.
Cheers, Barry
__________________
Every twenty minute job is one broken bolt away from a three day ordeal. |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
If you don't want to run E10, then don't.
Use premium. Costs a bit more but doesn't go off as quick! Is not as hygroscopic. Contains less deposits. (Remember when you had a choice of "Super" or "Standard"? Nobody used "Standard", only "Super" will do!! Why has this changed? Why do we insist on using the cheapest shite?) Tony, as for your bio-diesel, you have to be VERY careful with modern diesel systems, especially common-rail technology. The local Nissan & Toyota dealers are doing a lot of diesel fuel system repairs, as are tractor workshops. Not a cheap repair.
__________________
Howard Holgate F15 #12 F15A #13 (stretched) F60S #13 C15A #13 Wireless (incomplete) |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
Our Mazda6 has a common rail system, and weren't able to be released here until Aust Diesel comformed to Euro4 standards (known as Ultra-Low Sulphur Diesel). The standard for Euro4 fuel (and US ASTM D975) allows up to B5 blends, and I will only run B5 as that is what Mazda will cover under warranty. I have inquired about the injector costs for the Mazda, they are are$1675ea ![]() |
![]() |
|
|