1940 Chev C15, Cab 11 restoration in Holland

[jaap de wit]

Thanks guy's for all the helpfull info, before I show some more pictures I wondering how did they fill up that oil filter after replaceing the filter element?
oke back to my own project I placed the gearbox in it's place and installed the small compressor on the left side. I also started on the fueltank brackeds witch needs new straps to hold the tank. I strated on the tank to and under all the dirt and old paint I found the original number Z4200302 I did not see a C so ... I want to make it british anyway (because of the british radiobody).
see the next reply to for more...
cheers jaap

[jaap de wit]

the fuel tank was very clean inside so it needed not much work. I cleaned the brass plate with the valve and sender holl and it looks fine. the sender I am not sure about I cleaned it and try to test it with the gauge and it was not working good, is there a easy way to test the sender ?
I used a mall to paint the number back on the tank and then putt it on it's brackeds, I used rubber strips between the tank and the brackeds.
Dos'nt it looks great, to bad I have only one tank. I am looking for the lefthand side tank with the small filling pipe and the brass plate with the valve and sender unit, so if anybody nows one.
cheers jaap

[Phil Waterman]

"Thanks guy's for all the helpfull info, before I show some more pictures I wondering how did they fill up that oil filter after replacing the filter element?"

If you are speaking of the horizontally mounted oil filter the simple answer they didn't. The vertically mounted filter of course you pour in 1-2 quarts slowly after you put in the filter then put the top on.

It really is not much of a problem with the Chevy splash/spray lubrication system as there are nearly two quarts of oil trapped in the troughs, which any of us who have flipped over a 216 Chev without first removing the oil pan discovered as the oil ran out onto the floor. This oil trapped in the troughs will lubricate the lower end of the engine until the oil pressure comes up and the spray jets take over. I’ve done some test and the Chevy oil system though low pressure moves a lot of oil. See http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...Page%20Two.htm for some pictures

But you raise a very important point do not just dump in 6 quarts of oil in a freshly assembled engine and try to start it. You really need to prime the oil system, use a electric drill down through the mounting for the distributor. Dumping in the oil does not insure that the troughs are filled.

Cheers Phil

[Ausmick]

Hi Phil,

I was wondering about the same thing, priming the oil system, when my current project gets that far. Could you simply just use the crank handed to get the oil thrown about a bit? Or would this not work.

Mick

[Grant Bowker]

The reason Phil suggested using the drill down the distributor mount hole is that by doing this you drive the oil pump directly without turning any other part of the engine so that if you have any dry bearing surfaces they will be lubricated before they are moved.

[cletrac (RIP)]

Any of those older motors were bypass oil filters so filling the filter isn't important since the filtered oil just returns to the oil pan.
If you use assembly lube when putting an engine together you can just spin it over on the starter with no spark until you get oil pressure then give it spark to fire up. You can even do this before you put the spark plugs in and then there's no compression to load the bearings before the oil hits.
The old drill on the pump drive works on motors with the drive gear on the distributor shaft but that's it.

[Bob Carriere]

<<<"The old drill on the pump drive works on motors with the drive gear on the distributor shaft but that's it. ">>>>

Hi Dave

I have never fully realized the differences on priming a 235/261 vs the original 216. As pointed out by Phil...... without the oil trough filled with oil the initial start up is much more critical.

So my question Dave is.... concerning the quote above.... would it not be beneficial to prime a 216 with a drill in the dizzy hole to make sure the oil passages are at least well filled similar to the practice used for a 235/261..?

I can vouch for the amount of pressure you can build up with a HD 3/8 inch electric drill.... the temporary mechanical gauge showed 40+ psi...just before the oil hoses to the external filter were blown off the fittings as I did not think I would need hose clamps just for a check up. With the 1/2 inch lines to the filter I lost over two quarts of oil on the floor.

BooB

Japp..... very nice job..... following your postings with interest in view of the similarity to my C15a cab 11

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by jaap de wit

the fuel tank was very clean inside so it needed not much work. I cleaned the brass plate with the valve and sender holl and it looks fine. the sender I am not sure about I cleaned it and try to test it with the gauge and it was not working good, is there a easy way to test the sender ?
I used a mall to paint the number back on the tank and then putt it on it's brackeds, I used rubber strips between the tank and the brackeds.
Dos'nt it looks great, to bad I have only one tank. I am looking for the lefthand side tank with the small filling pipe and the brass plate with the valve and sender unit, so if anybody nows one.
cheers jaap

Jaap..
Putting the rubber gaskets under the tank straps may effect the grounding of the tank itself..with out witch your gas gage may not work..I'm going from memory here but I believe that the tank sending unit is a one wire sending unit and depends on the tank being grounded to have the guage read properly..other wise it may read all over the place or not work at all..
Don't know but makes sense to me..Check it out.

But beautiful work on your vehicle..

[Bob Carriere]

Alex..... the original tanks were mounted on a braided canvass ribbon impreganted with some coal tar substance of some sort and would ALSO have acted as an electrical isolator...also reduced squeaks and friction between metals... BUT the fuel line is steel and properly grounds everywhere on the frame with hold down clips.

These same canvas strips eventually (40 + years) became dry and absorbed water which usually rotted the underside of the fuel tanks..

Boob

[Lynn Eades]

This is for those us that don't know, but don't want to ask.
These filters are bypass filters, and as such, would have little effect on the oil pressure to the rest of the engine. They are connected on the inlet side to a main pressure gallery. The flow through the filter housing is by way of a restrictor hole or holes, at the inlet to the filter housing (often a small pair of holes in the tube in the centre of the housing)The oil exits these holes,as a minimal flow, passes through the element, and returns to the sump. The bypass filter typically uses a finer media than a full flow system,and has no alternative route when the filter blocks up. (the flow just stops)
Basically you can change the filter. Re-assemble it dry, with the new filter. Run up the engine,(checking for leaks) and then top up your sump.
None of this has anything to do with priming, and starting a rebuilt engine, or full flow filters.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi All

Well I found my handy dandy Chevy Oil System priming tool. Which is a 7 3/4inch long bit of 3/8ths rod stock heated and flatted at one end to match the thickness of the distributor end. Chucked up in a hand drill plug in type if you want to run it for any length of time. Produces 30psi in a 216 Chevy engine and produces 40psi in a 235 or 261 engine.

(note first one of these I made I used a piece of steel tubing flattened at one end nice fit but the tip quickly broke off, luckily I was able to fish it out with a magnet, pain if it drops into the pan. While your at it be sure your drill bit is really nice and tight on the shaft I dropped the drive bit once and it almost slid into the oil pan.)

When I'm building up and engine on the test stand I have a block heater which brings the engine up 140 F then I run the primer once the block is warm it is surprising how fast the oil starts to warm up then with no plugs in the engine I spin the engine over while running the drill.

Lynn in talking about bypass filters mentions a very important point the original by pass filters had a small orifice fitting or tube to control the amount of oil that would go back directly to the sump. If you are installing a newer filter system you may need to add a restricted fitting to not have two much oil flow through the filter. Watch the oil pressure as you go through the first engine test and get the oil up to engine temperature.

Cheers Phil

[Phil Waterman]

In response to your question yes, easier to test the tank senders than it is to check the fuel gauge. I use a ohms meter just raise and lower the float arm and the ohms meter should change. I've got a couple of senders out I'll try and remember to check them and see what they read for resistance at the full and empty positions.

About the tank straps originally my 1945 HUP had a tar coated cloth band between the tank and the strap. While my 1942 C60S had rubber strips between the tank and the steel strap. Both had the woven ground straps that have been mentioned, though the all steel fuel line provides a pretty good ground back to the fuel tank selector and filter if you don't mind the idea of gas line being a electrical ground.

Cheers Phil