Identification of F15 2WD?

Ganmain Tony · #1 28-03-10, 08:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by cletrac

Tony, you asked about a body like my 2A1 for your F15. These two pics show an Aussie type wood box for a 1942 15 cwt so I'd say that's what you should go for. These boxes differ from mine in that they're wider so don't need the metal rear fenders and they don't have the drop sides. They look to be about the same size as a 2B1. In the pic with the two trucks the top is the Aussie body and the bottom is the 2B1. I'll take some measurements off my 2B1 and you'll be able to go from there.

Thanks David, really appreciate the help as I am a dead set novice when it comes to the trays/backs on these things. So this will be an awesome education I am looking forward to.

I was inspired by the fantastic timber back youve done on your Cab 11. It is a work of art with a really practical application.

Do any of the Aussie Blitz guys have the metal fabrication bits off an old timber body? Something I could copy???

Hanno Spoelstra · #2 28-03-10, 12:35

Tony,

Excellent find. May I suggest you try to recreate the Australian No 1 GS Body? That is the composite body (angle iron/wooden planks) as pictured by David.

Forum member Rod Diery has one you could take measurements from - see quote below.

Hanno

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rod Diery

Hello Keith and Co,

These are the details of yet another cab I have in my yard. The pic is of this cab as I found it in a salt lake near Kulin, WA.

Note that it is a WO1. I have anecdotal evidence that the wooden body the cab is in is the original one. Maybe this will fill in another WO gap.

Chassis Serial 2842100116M
Engine Serial SR3781572
Model WO1

ARN 60108

Regards
Rod

Ganmain Tony · #3 28-03-10, 12:40

Thanks Hanno - was hoping one of the senior forum members would give me a steer in the right direction.

Rod...... are you around? I'll send a PM.

Hanno Spoelstra · #4 29-08-18, 14:19

Looking good, Tony

Any thoughts about the cargo body? Meanwhile Robert Sexton has had Drawings for No1 Australian body made up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

May I suggest you try to recreate the Australian No 1 GS Body? That is the composite body (angle iron/wooden planks) as pictured by David

Aussy body.jpg

David Herbert · #5 29-08-18, 16:05

Is that a left hand drive C15 ? My first thought was that the photo is back to front but most cargo planes have the loading door on the left side as in the photo.

David

Phil Waterman · #6 29-08-18, 18:27

Hi David that is very good spotting on the hatch being on the wrong side, one thought is could the plane be a Civilian DC-3 some of which had doors on the other or right side of the aircraft.

Cheers Phil

David Herbert · #7 29-08-18, 19:58

As I understand it, most 13 cab C15s have the spare wheel on the left side as in the photo. I think that some Indian bodied ones have it on the right but that is an Australian body isn't it ? The one in the picture not only has the hatch on the right but I think it is possible to make out the steering wheel on the left. If anyone had a clearer version of the photo it should be possible to tell by the Chevrolet badge as this is not siametrical.

David

Paul Singleton · #8 29-08-18, 22:13

https://media.gm.com/

https://media.gm.com/media/us/en/gm/...02_bowtie.html

It would appear that the photo is reversed.

Ganmain Tony · #9 30-08-18, 14:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

Looking good, Tony

Any thoughts about the cargo body? Meanwhile Robert Sexton has had Drawings for No1 Australian body made up.

Attachment 101870

Apparently this particular truck according to the AWM records was a fully imported truck from Canada and came with a 2C1 body.

I have one, (again generously given to me from Keith) suffice to say it is a "restorers delight".

I really really like the look of the No1 body and the effort Robert went to is certainly not lost on me.

At this stage Ill be trying to fix the Canadian body.

Having said all that, I have an Australian toolbox & spare wheel carrier that will be going on it.

I would like to find the original Canadian version with the clam shell spare, but I wont hold my breath till one turns up.

Mike Cecil · #10 30-08-18, 17:39

Hi Tony,

Your truck has had a roof-swap, too, as you have an Australian Ford roof and roof hatch. So putting the CTB 2C1 body on it would be good and look great (but very heavy compared to the Australian all-steel body), but it will still mean you'll need to look out for a Canadian roof/roofhatch and a Canadian spare wheel carrier/tool box if you wish to bring it back to original/'as delivered' configuration.

Great job you are doing.

Mike

Ganmain Tony · #11 13-09-18, 07:41

Thanks Mike for the kind words and helpful suggestions.

Spot on with the roof. I had no other option as the original roof has been chopped to accomodate the modification of the windscreen.

This roof that we repaired and painted was in pretty good nick and the only one available to me.

If anyone has a Canadian Ford roof I would be very interested to hear from you.

Picture shows completed rear curtain arrangement.

Ganmain Tony · #12 16-09-18, 12:06

Been a bloody fiddly job. Got there in the end.

Boots are from Macs but I dont think they are the correct ones.

They will do the job required none the less.

hrpearce · #13 28-03-10, 13:02

Looks like a nice project Tony

I haven't seen rims like that on any truck I've come across.
They certainly went to a lot of trouble to set up the spreader drive, all the ones around here had a drive cog bolted to extension nuts on the rear wheel and an over centre dog clutch to engage the spreader.
I would like to see some photos from underneath to see all the drivetrain

Ganmain Tony · #14 28-03-10, 13:14

Will take some more photos tomorrow Robert.

Looks like that will be the last time I'll be able to. Because tomorrow, it'll all be coming off........

zemsi · #15 28-03-10, 18:01

Hi Tony

Wonderful find. Good to see another cute little F15 back on the road

Greetings
Chris

cletrac (RIP) · #16 29-03-10, 07:05

Here's the measurements off the 2B1. These measurements should be the same as you need since everything is in the same place.
-width to outside of box sides 83 1/2"
-length to outside of box ends 79 1/2"
-floor surface to top of box 22"
-height of wheel wells 12 1/2"
-front of box to front of wheel well 21 1/2"
-rear of box to rear of wheel well 21 1/2"
-length of wheel well 36 1/2"
-top of box to top of wheel well 12 1/2
-width between insides of wheel wells 45"
-distance between sills above frame 28 1/2"
-distance between outside of sills 36"
The side boards will be 6 1/2" by 1" so you'll have to start with 2x8s and plane them down to size. The floor planks are 1 1/2" thick so 2x6s will work. It'll likely use those 1/4" x 1" strips like my 2A1 uses. The panels will use those 1/8" x 1" flat irons for edging too.
This pic shows some of the construction techniques. You can see how they made the angle iron uprights.

Bob McNeill · #17 29-03-10, 11:08

the timber body that I made for the C15 used mostly old brackets, new timbers

Ganmain Tony · #18 29-03-10, 11:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob McNeill

the timber body that I made for the C15 used mostly old brackets, new timbers

It was great to have a look and a yarn about the back at Corowa as well Bob.

You woudnt have any more brackets lying around would you???