![]() |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Phil, what I always did whenever I bought an old rifle was to dismount the stock(s), [in your case then sand off the mold/mildew], then strip off the old varnish/lacquer/whatever and sand, sand, sand. To strip use a good quality wood stripper, and what works well is a straight razor blade - just make sure you get it all off. After you're satisfied with the final finish (using successively lighter grades of sandpaper), it's time to pour on the linseed oil and rub it in by hand. You'll want to do a number of applications, rubbing it until you can feel the heat - this way the oil will soak well into the wood. You'll be amazed at the final finish! Do enough of it and it will keep out the nasties as well.
I've done quite a number of old rifles this way and it works... gives the old girls some dignity! ![]() BTW, I'd also invest in a dessicant for your gun cabinet - you obviously have moisture in there.
__________________
SUNRAY SENDS AND ENDS :remember :support |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
The quickest way to devalue a firearm is to remove the original finish.. The desiccant I agree with..Rubbing G-96 on it will remove the moisture..the mildew and restore the original patina..end of problem.. GADS!!! Sand paper..!! Those were the gloves they issued officers when they signed up..trying to keep them from abusing and amusing them selves..!! LOL..Gottcha..!! See you and Sally at Bobbee's.. Here is some thoughts on refinishing firearms.. removing any patine from the firearm defiantly reduces value. however a tear down to clean all the old oil and any build up from years of sitting wont drop value.i too have an old valuable rifle and had it cleaned but did not remove patina and it retained its value. i cant stress enough how important it is to leave things alone till you take it to a professional who knows what he/she is doing and take their advice. removing any patine from the firearm defiantly reduces value. however a tear down to clean all the old oil and any build up from years of sitting wont drop value.i too have an old valuable rifle and had it cleaned but did not remove patina and it retained its value. I cant stress enough how important it is to leave things alone till you take it to a professional who knows what he/she is doing and take their advice. Check this out.. One thing to remember that if these guns are old enough or have any original collector value at all, is not to try to strip them down and refinish them. You might end up with a nice looking gun, but it's value would be way down. You could ruin a valuable collector gun.
__________________
Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk: |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
WD-40 has always worked for me....have to agree with the statements about the lefty pinko's...we have a very strong STALINIST goverment here......regards malcolm
![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________
mally B |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
The best thing to get rid of mould or mildew is a bleach solution. I use that treatment on my house window ledges every few years. It won't affect the wood or metal finish. After everything's dry rub the gun down with oil.
__________________
1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Guys, as an armourer for more than 25 years I agree with the g-96, even WD-40 is useable, but I am not 100% sure about that one in extreme cold.
The issue is the woodwork. Personaly I agree with Geoff. Linseed oil, rubbed in by hand is the only way I would do it. And yes, the finish it leaves is amazing. Only difference though is the method of cleaning the woodwork. I don't think I would sand it, however I would scrape it back with the REVERSE side of a hacksaw blade. It cleans off the grime without the sanding or razor blade effect. The majority of stampings & markings remain. Just don't get over zelous with the pressure when scraping it. My two cents worth...
__________________
What I state is my opinion & my opinion only It's not what you know It's not who you know It's what you know about who.. |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Only two ways to deal with this problem;
1. strip them down, smelt the metal and burn the wood, or 2. sell them to me at a major discount off their value. Whichever you choose you will not have to deal with unsightly mildew issues again. ![]() ![]()
__________________
Those who live by the sword will be shot by those of us who have progressed. - M38A1, 67-07800, ex LETE |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I think the G96 guys are on the right track. Linseed oil can be a disaster -use the gun oil (of whatever brand you choose on the woodwork). Linseed is organic and particularly in warmer climates and I presume even Canadian collections are in a warm house it will start turning to black spotted staining mould all over the weapon. Anyone putting linseed oil on house outdoor decking or outdoor wood furniture will know it finishes up a black mess in very short time.
The residual moisture in the wood will leave the white furry mould like in photo above but can be cleaned off with damp cloth then reoiled with G96. My little used gun collection requires the damp cloth fur removal about once a year no matter how much oil is soaked into the wood. Jiff don't sand it back unless you are going to sporterise or hotrod your weapon, I too also suspect it will devalue an original piece. lang |
![]() |
|
|