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  #1  
Old 08-06-10, 20:39
Don Dingwall's Avatar
Don Dingwall Don Dingwall is offline
Chev44
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wilds of West Carleton, ON
Posts: 150
Default This is why Clive needs an engine.......

-Main bearing set (@ 30 thou under)

-cam bearing

-camshaft and lifters

-timing gear set

-4 x intake valves

-4 x intake guides

-4 x intake valve springs

-overhaul gasket set

-4 x pistons (@ 60 thou over

-full set of rings (@ 60 thou over)

-4 x rod bearings (30 thou under)

-4 x exhaust valves

-4 x exhaust guides

-4 x exhaust valve springs

-water pump (new or rebuilt)

Labour for doing this work would be $1474 + tax.


This doesn't include any machining that needs to be done etc.

About all that's left is the carb, head, dist and block.

Maybe Geoff can fix it up for you Clive? Can you have him deliver it t me in 2 weeks as well?


Don
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'Strange women lying in ponds distributing swords is no basis for a system of government.'
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  #2  
Old 08-06-10, 21:15
Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP)'s Avatar
Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP) Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP) is offline
former OC MLU, AKA 'Jif' - sadly no longer with us
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,400
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Dingwall View Post
-Main bearing set (@ 30 thou under)

-cam bearing

-camshaft and lifters

-timing gear set

-4 x intake valves

-4 x intake guides

-4 x intake valve springs

-overhaul gasket set

-4 x pistons (@ 60 thou over

-full set of rings (@ 60 thou over)

-4 x rod bearings (30 thou under)

-4 x exhaust valves

-4 x exhaust guides

-4 x exhaust valve springs

-water pump (new or rebuilt)

Labour for doing this work would be $1474 + tax.


This doesn't include any machining that needs to be done etc.

About all that's left is the carb, head, dist and block.

Maybe Geoff can fix it up for you Clive? Can you have him deliver it t me in 2 weeks as well?


Don
Ouch. Sorry, but yeah, that engine's toast, comparatively speaking. My old 1953 F-head wasn't nearly that bad, and it was already 30 years old when I got it (and I thought it was buggered then!). I guess time has a way of distorting perspective...
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  #3  
Old 08-06-10, 21:27
peter simundson peter simundson is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: mississauga, Canada
Posts: 1,182
Default Rebuilds are $2000.

Had them done. My MB rebuild was $2000. Not a lot when the jeep is done, and your mind rests easy.
Rebuild the fuel pump and carb while you are at it. Not a big job. And replace all fuel and brake lines,
My babbitted Chev engine was $2600 for the rebuild and the "rebuilder" called back to advise it was babbitted and raised it to that price.

Peter S
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  #4  
Old 08-06-10, 21:56
Alex Blair (RIP) Alex Blair (RIP) is offline
"Mr. Manual", sadly no longer with us
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ottawa ,Canada
Posts: 2,916
Default Hop 'er up..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Dingwall View Post
-Main bearing set (@ 30 thou under)

-cam bearing

-camshaft and lifters

-timing gear set

-4 x intake valves

-4 x intake guides

-4 x intake valve springs

-overhaul gasket set

-4 x pistons (@ 60 thou over

-full set of rings (@ 60 thou over)

-4 x rod bearings (30 thou under)

-4 x exhaust valves

-4 x exhaust guides

-4 x exhaust valve springs

-water pump (new or rebuilt)

Labour for doing this work would be $1474 + tax.


This doesn't include any machining that needs to be done etc.

About all that's left is the carb, head, dist and block.

Maybe Geoff can fix it up for you Clive? Can you have him deliver it t me in 2 weeks as well?


Don
Don ..\
Stick a blown 350 Chevy in it, Don..Clive wouldn't know the friggin' difference anyway..until he stepped on it..Tell him .."It's the new rings..man.."..lots of power now..
Clive would buy that..
As long as you leave it so it leaks a little oil on his driveway,he'll like it..
He is used to driving those old Triumphs..
You and Little Don heading out to BBB..??
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  #5  
Old 09-06-10, 01:25
Wpns 421's Avatar
Wpns 421 Wpns 421 is offline
Gilles Chartrand
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Merrickville, Ontario
Posts: 368
Default

This post is too close to home, I just bought a M38A1 (Ford) and the motor does not turn over. Will know in a couple of weeks if she turns. Does anyone have a good engine they would be will to sell. Also I have a parts M38 (1970) with a complete engine condition unknown. If I can find a rebuild kit I have a good engine rebuild shop that is reasonable and would like to rebuild the original engine. Gilles
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  #6  
Old 09-06-10, 04:56
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
Terry Warner
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Shouting at clouds
Posts: 3,135
Default M38A1 engine woes

Well, I might as well join the parade. 70-08876 has low compression and is a sonuvagun to start. It runs when going, but that is the tough part. The compression is low and very low.

My simple knowledge of engines says: sleeve the cylinders; change the cam to keep the valves closed longer; taller pistons; or mill the head or block to reduce the cylinder volume. No matter what, as Rob describes there are only so many modern wear elements on these engines. And we are stuck.

Now, I have a total of three blocks including the runner in the Jeep, a supposedly unused from rebuild engine and a third block with the cam and bottom end off. This third one is available for experiments if someone has good ideas.
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- 74-????? M151A2
- 70-08876 M38A1
- 53-71233 M100CDN trailer

Beware! The Green Disease walks among us!
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  #7  
Old 09-06-10, 05:15
servicepub (RIP)'s Avatar
servicepub (RIP) servicepub (RIP) is offline
RIP
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 1,734
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by maple_leaf_eh View Post
Well, I might as well join the parade. 70-08876 has low compression and is a sonuvagun to start. It runs when going, but that is the tough part. The compression is low and very low.

My simple knowledge of engines says: sleeve the cylinders; change the cam to keep the valves closed longer; taller pistons; or mill the head or block to reduce the cylinder volume. No matter what, as Rob describes there are only so many modern wear elements on these engines. And we are stuck.

Now, I have a total of three blocks including the runner in the Jeep, a supposedly unused from rebuild engine and a third block with the cam and bottom end off. This third one is available for experiments if someone has good ideas.
Terry,
So, is one available for sale to a good home?
Clive
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  #8  
Old 09-06-10, 13:50
BCA BCA is offline
Brian Asbury
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Default engine rebuilds

Clive: As Peter said engine rebuilds are over $2000 unless you are very handy and do most of the work yourself and no serious encounters are met. Army rebuilt M38A1 engines are still available - either as field drop-ins with all the accessories or "short blocks" if you want to use you original carburator, distributor, fuel pump, spark plug leads, clutch etc. PM me for pricing or talk to me at the OMVA rally and swap meet on Saturday.
........ Brian
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  #9  
Old 10-06-10, 17:53
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammond, Ontario
Posts: 5,259
Default Engines for Jeeps....

As any one bothered to ask Jim Fraser what he has in his strorage sheds...?

Last time I was there we had to push complete jeep engine/tranny/Tcase aside to get to the stuff behind......

On the cost of a rebuild remember it is 2010...... rebuilding an engine for less than a $1000 is a pipe dream....... a total rebuild where you bore out and polish everything to new size means pistons, bearings, sometimes rods, valves and valves seats, valve springs..... you start with a confirmed good bare block that has been magnuflux and head and crank go from there....

4 years ago my 261 cost $3000 plus $600 for taxes and environmental fees I would suspect $4000 today.

Rebuilt Jeep engines are readily available across the border ($2500 to $3000)and will only cost you HST when you cross the border...... BUT.... beware..... some of those government contract rebuild engines were slapped together by various outfits that were more concerned with collecting the inflated government contracts then developing customer satisfaction...... apparently some of the Canadian rebuilt engines for the CDN army are crap also...... so do your home work and ask around about the rebuilder tag on the engine before you put out hard cash.

One more comment..... the environmental restrictions on the by-products of rebuilding engines is such that most machine shops have been driven out of the business my safety/environmental regulations..... to my knowledge there is or was only one shop in Ottawa....Engine Extra in the West end..... that does all its rebuilding in house.....ALL the others are sending the parts somewhere to be washed in an automated massive dishwasher that recirculates the waterbased solvents.... somewhere else to have the crank ground and polished......boring out is the same thing..... and guess who pays for all the shipping and transportation. Most of the dirty work is done either in Montreal or Toronto. Ottawa si clean !!!! Shortage of experienced machinists that can do the various jobs of balancing, grinding, etc. are also contributing to the higher costs....have to keep an expensive digital controlled machine idle in a corner of the shop is not a way to saty in business........ and local machine shops have to deal with the throw away mentality of the auto industry...... except for rebuilding commercial/industrial engines...and a few hot rods or restorations..... they do very little car engine rebuilding these days.....

Our CMP hobby and/or obsession with rebuilding everything sets us in a unique category.

....but what ride!!!!!! Talk to Jim.......

Boob
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C15a Cab 11
Hammond, Ontario
Canada
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  #10  
Old 09-06-10, 13:44
rob love rob love is offline
carrier mech
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
Posts: 7,587
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by maple_leaf_eh View Post
Well, I might as well join the parade. 70-08876 has low compression and is a sonuvagun to start. It runs when going, but that is the tough part. The compression is low and very low.

My simple knowledge of engines says: sleeve the cylinders; change the cam to keep the valves closed longer; taller pistons; or mill the head or block to reduce the cylinder volume. No matter what, as Rob describes there are only so many modern wear elements on these engines. And we are stuck.

Now, I have a total of three blocks including the runner in the Jeep, a supposedly unused from rebuild engine and a third block with the cam and bottom end off. This third one is available for experiments if someone has good ideas.
The tell tell signs back in the old days of low compression on these engines was that ether had to be used even on a cool fall day. These engines had what was known as an over square design; the pistons travel a very long stroke by today's standards, and were subject to wear.

Low compression on these engines was both common and not that bad to fix. If the oil pressure was still good, I used to do cheapy overhauls in the old days to fix the problem of worn cylinders/rings for a flat $400.

I would strip the crank and pistons from the engine, have the 4 cylinders bored over, and then re-assemble the engine with 4 new pistons and rings. Intake valves were never a problem, but occasionally there would be wear on the exhaust valve train which would also require attention.

I always found the engines to give about 15 to 20 thousand good miles, followed by about 15K tired miles, then require rebuild. Very low by today's standards.
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