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#1
17-12-10, 19:34
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For what you want, take a Chev CMP 13 cab (more interior room and easier to get in and out of) and put in a 261 Pontiac engine. (150 hp) Adapt a T5 overdrive 5 speed or the like onto the Chev bellhousing and you could drive it at 65 mph or so. Put some soft modern non military 16" tires on it and remove a few spring leaves from each corner (the shorter ones make the most difference) and the ride will be greatly improved. Rebuild the stock brakes and you won't have any trouble stopping. If driving in the mountains use the gears for engine braking like truckers do so you're not totally relying on the brakes. Restore the body and nobody will know the difference. It'll be kind of noisy and the cab will be kind of cramped and it'll ride a bit harsh and you won't win many races but you'll be able to go on those back mountain roads without much trouble.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 
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#2
17-12-10, 23:29
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Quote:
Quote:
Also, added my name up there-I didn't really notice that this is one of those forums more oriented towards using real names when I registered. Quote:
And, again, not trying to rod it, just to make it a bit more practical. Quote:
Tires would be replaced, at least for long-distance travel, by some modern all-terrains (I'm a big fan of BFG TA K/Os, myself)-I'd keep a set of military tires for show and fun, though. I'm not all that picky on the ride. I've owned nothing but Jeep Wranglers and CJs all my life, and driven almost nothing but them and service vehicles.
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#3
19-12-10, 04:03
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Restoring a CMP Truck
MP,
A couple of years ago (and many dollars as well!) I completed the restoration of an F8, Cab 11. I can honestly say that a project like this is not for the faint of heart! This site is the best for getting advice and feedback. The members of it were most helpful in aiding me with suggestions and answers to my questions. I strongly recommend that you maintain the integirity of the vehicle as a whole as you are restoring a part of history, something that nobody likes to have rewritten.  Now, having said that, I did install a '46 Mercury flathead (15 more horsepower) and did install an automatic transmission. BUT, I pinned the clutch pedal to the brake shaft so that the pedal set-up looks just like the original. One can press on either pedal for braking. And, I installed a Locar shifter which comes up into the cab in the exact same location as the original shift arm. Both of these do make driving the vehicle much safer due to the very limited foot space for the pedals.  I might add that neither "adjustments" affect the authentic look of the interior.  As for driving at speeds over 60, I wouldn't recommend it. Mine drives fine up to that speed with the hard tires but at 45-55 MPH one does feel much more secure!Best of luck in your search for a vehicle! Regards, Jim PS I did remove those "crab eyes" turn signal indicator fixtures and installed a pair in holes on either end of the bumper. 
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#4
19-12-10, 04:16
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Ugly orphan....
Jim..... Congratulations......
...... you took an ugly orphan that no one would touch in Canada and you turned it into a jewel that a lot of us would love to own..... you are a tribute to the CMP hobby and a tribute to what MLU stands for...... .... a lot of us followed attentively as you progressed in your restoration and learned from your experience....... that's what it is all about !!!!!! Bob C.
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#6
20-12-10, 22:35
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Pete,
It's definitely an interesting discussion, and nobody is really wrong, no matter their opinions on it. I personally believe there's room for both showroom/garage queens with immaculate paintjobs and matching serial numbers all around, and for kitbashed restorations with new engines and modern tires and such. I'm not all that concerned about the monetary value here. I'm looking at taking some relatively cheap CMPs that are already missing several parts sitting in a field and trying to breathe some life back into them. Here's what I may be working with, if everything falls into place for the new year:   The thing is, while I'm definitely not bad with a ratchet set and an airbrush, I'm not a professional. Not even close. I don't even work with cars for a living, I fix computers. I'm doing this for the experience and the shot at getting a piece of history rolling again. I couldn't build a museum-quality replica even if I wanted, especially not with a pair of CMPs with no beds and engines of questionable quality. But there are already plenty that HAVE been preserved-and I'm doing these a lot more justice getting them back on the road with different engines and modern tires and such then letting them rust into scrap or letting them get carted off to the scrapyard where they'll be crush and sent to China and melted down to make Buicks.  I'm not doing this for the show aspect so much-the closest one to me would be the Edmonton or Vancouver shows, and I don't own a vehicle that could tow one down there anyways. Plus, I have a natural disinterest in 'trailer queens'-these things were meant to run. Since I'm looking at picking up two that are, at least mechanically, intact, I may try out both routes-take the one in worst shape, put in a slighty newer engine and whatnot and try it at modern speeds, and try and keep the better one closer to factory specs.
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#7
21-12-10, 05:59
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Hi Don,
If you are hell-bent on making a CMP run on modern components, then so be it. Factors to consider are width and compatability: The width of CMP trucks is narrow compared to trucks of today's standards. This translates from axle width down to spring mount width, which then becomes a real problem. Take a tape measure to a modern truck running gear and compare it to a CMP and tell us what you find and what you think will fit.... Compatability-wise, nothing will fit past the mid 1960's that I have found. Talking about GM products here only as I don't know squat about Fords... Here to help and not to hinder... Thanks, David Last edited by David DeWeese; 21-12-10 at 06:18. Reason: added BS
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#8
21-12-10, 17:37
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Redo..
Don..
You can basically do what you want and I have been around these things for 600 years and have always thought I would like to take the CMP distinctive cab and box and just strip the body off a modern pick up truck and plop it down on the new frame and running gear..That would work and you would have left hand drive and all the good stuff..sort out the dash and make it fit and you would have all the modern conveniences..like Heat and air ,good breaks and 200 MPH potential..with a super charger.. If you look at some of the CMP conversions in Thailand,you would soon realize that some camouflage tactics and you can do any thing you want and still have that CMP Look.. Go for it... But what ever you do take pictures and post them here and have fun.. Damned the torpedoes and full speed ahead.!!!
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk:
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#9
19-12-10, 14:44
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Quote:
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#10
20-12-10, 05:39
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"40 Ford Engione VS "46 Mercury Engine
Quote:
You're absolutely correct. I inadvertently used the stats from the Flathead Specification site and not my Ford Special Pattern Vehicles Instruction Book (Second Edition) which clearly shows that the original engine in my F8 did have a 3 3/16 bore and 95 hp. My bad!  Regards, Jim
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#11
20-12-10, 08:36
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To chop or not?
Hello Don
You raise an interesting question which taxes a number of restores and collectors as the differential in road speed between our trucks and modern traffic gets ever larger particularly here in the UK with our high population density. For example here in the UK motorway driving will as a norm produce a speed differential of 45mph assuming a CMP at 35mph and a modern vehicle travelling at 80mph, (yes I know the limit is 70mph but no one drives at this speed anymore). In recent years a small number of historic military vehicles have been involved in rear end collisions nearly all on motorways as a result I suspect of modern drivers misjudging the closing speed, they expect the MV to be doing 50 to 60 mph, no excuse for bad driving but it is an unwelcome fact. Given the facts your argument for modifying the drive train has validity. However, and this is the sticking point for me, I do think it brings into focus the reasons for restoring our vehicles are we preserving mechanical engineering history some of which is now at least 70 years old or are we trying to keep alive the spirit of the men who used our trucks? For me it’s both and ultimately it’s your truck and you can do as you want with it but I would suggest as others already have that the route to modern upgrading can never be straight forward or wholly satisfactory from the engineering stand point. The danger is that you will end up with a vehicle that is neither a historical example or one that is mechanically sound in terms of modern standards and in terms of its monetary value will seriously be reduced. I see you live in the Yukon so anywhere from you must be a seriously long way away, with that and the above points in mind would a better solution be to buy a more modern MV for shows, meets etc and if you are really keen on CMP’s get one and restore it to original spec and enjoy it locally. This raises another spectre in the shape of why restore something if it sits in the barn and no one sees it…….. probably a topic for a another discussion? Pete
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