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#1
04-02-11, 01:55
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#2
04-02-11, 02:07
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Thanks for the great info guys!
I must admit, I have run the gammut in mvs and always figured I would never go with the modern stuff (40 years modern). How things change... Great to have a couple knowledgeable fellows here who have dealt with this in the recent past. Rob, what did you use for paint on your 3 colour camo? Also, do you have details of both the corner mount and spare tire mounted antenna mounts?
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3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV 1957 Triumph TRW 500cc RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers
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#3
04-02-11, 02:33
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I use tremclad flat black for the black. I still had some of the flat green, and I kind of mixed some Gillespie paints to make the olive drab. I believe it was a combination of 34080 with some 34087 mixed in. I will be replicating the paint again this spring, so I'll get a better description of the formula. I always liked the tremclad black. It was tough, and you could buy it anywhere. Unfortunately, they have changed their formulas this past summer to a water based paint, which does not lend itself well to spraying. Essentially any flat black will do. The military stuff turned gray after a couple of years. It has been suggested to me that 34094 would be a suitable replacement for the flat green. If you check some of my old for sale ads, there were photos of both the corner mount and the spare tire antenna mount. I seem to have exhausted my source for the corner mounts, but I do have some of the spare tire mounted brackets available if there are none in your area. On the photos of my jeep you can just see the rear corner antenna mount.
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#4
04-02-11, 03:40
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In my case I went/going with the following for the 3 Color Cam Pattern:
503-322 "Field/Pea Green" = Tempo 34094 "383" Green 503-321 "Flat Olive Drab" = Gillespie 34087 "Khaki" Olive Drab 512-301 "Flat Black" = Tremclad Flat Black (in Spray Bombs) I also used Gillespie 24087 Semi-Gloss Olive Drab for my Engine Compartment etc, as this was the original base coat that the M38A1 and M151A2 were delivered with. My M38A1 CDN2 was still Semi-Gloss OD in the Interior and the Engine Compartment, with the 3 Color Cam Pattern painted over the Semi-Gloss OD on the Exterior surfaces. All 3 of the M151A2s that i've had were base coated over the Semi-Gloss Olive Drab with either the 503-322 Field Green or 503-321 Flat OD inside and out, and then had the Black and the other Green/OD added to make the Cam Pattern. Only the Engine Compartments were still Semi-Gloss OD. One was sprayed with Red Primer over the Semi-Gloss OD prior to the Cam being added. The other two were brushed right over the Semi-Gloss OD... (horrible). Paint is a major source of frustration when dealing with the 3 Color Cam Pattern. It gets beat around on here quite often. In my case, I gave up looking for the holy grail of perfection and went with the 90% solution. I have collected literally hundreds of color photos of the pattern, have a parking lot full of vehicles at work that still have it, as well as have a can of each of the original paints. The problem is as stated in other posts was the manufacturers subtle differences, condition of the paint itself (old, frozen at some point etc), how it was applied (brushed, rolled, sprayed, cut with gasoline, thinner, varsol) and how the vehicle was stored. There was clearly two (slightly different) versions of the 503-322 Field Green floating around at some point. It seems out east it was more "Pea Green" than out west where it was a bit darker Green, closer to the Flat OD. In my case, the 383 Green was darned close to the "East Pea Green" 503-322 Field Green, so I went with it. Honestly, in the right light, you'd be splitting hairs to tell the difference. Again, that is the Tempo version of 383. With Gillespie, Sherwin Williams or PPG it could very well turn out different. EDIT: Picture added. I like this one as its the only photo I have that really captures the "true color" of the 383 Green. Thee rest of the pics I have don't look right with artificial light. If you look really hard at the scrap MUTT on the right, there is some original 503-322 Field Green showing on the Inner-Fender above the rear Wheel. Its a long shot, but believe me when I say its damn close:  One of these days when its slow at work, i'm going to take a few recently procured vehicles (LUVW, MSVS, Milcot, LAV III and a Refurbished Bison) and park them all side by side and take a photo. Although they are all "CARC Green", none of them are exactly the same. If we can't get it right now, I sleep well knowing that it was imperfect back then as well  Thats my Nickle on Paint
Last edited by Scott Bentley; 04-02-11 at 03:55.
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#5
04-02-11, 20:02
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Rob, I noticed that your jeep has rectangular mirror heads, are these milspec?
My jeep as purchased also has them, I figured they were aftermarket add ons as I know the original round ones have limited viz....
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3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV 1957 Triumph TRW 500cc RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers
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#6
04-02-11, 21:06
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All we got were rectangular mirrors in the 80s. I guess it was an upgrade in the military over the small round ones. Most of the ones I remembered getting were in Chrysler marked boxes. The problem with these was that there was only a rubber outer that held the mirror glass onto the metal back. The glass would fall out if the jeep was run through light bush, or even hitting a decent pothole. We used to glue the glass to the metal with contact cement. I am pretty sure we helped Chrysler on to it's first bankruptcy, because without the glue we would have gone through a lot more mirrors.
There was a mod towards the latter life of the jeeps (both the M38A1s and the M151A2s) to relocate the mirrors to the front fenders, with a second mirror arm added for stability. We would add a third arm to this to make it more stable, especially on the M151A2s, otherwise the mirror shook so bad on idle you couldn't see out of it. As well, both fleets of vehicle's fenders were prone to cracking with only the pair of arms. Most collectors relocate them back to the windshield hinges where they were originally. We can get away with this because most collectors do not drive theirs daily with the tarp and doors, which led to the visibility problem.
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#7
04-02-11, 21:43
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License Plate location
Rob, My jeep has the license plate mounting holes in the same location as the Manitoba jeep high on the grill. The CFP camo shows the plate on the bumper. CV 32 does not show any plates in the photos nor does the CDN 2 users manual.Which is the proper location? I have seen a few different ideas. My jerry can brackets both have a poorly welded bracket for the rear plate. Any ideas. I have attached a photo from Pet showing the base museum jeep.
Dave
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#8
04-02-11, 02:27
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Hybrid Mode
