Cmp c15a gs

[Mike K]

Joel

I had a look at your web page. That is a very nice unmolested truck to begin with.

What is wrong with the fuel tank selector ? If you give it a good clean it will probably work fine . If it leaks try lapping in the barrel with some fine valve grinding paste .

The chassis would normally be the same colour as the rest of the truck.

Mike

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Joel

I love the suggestion from Alex.... have the kids write in their questions...

You will get a whole bunch of responses for all of us.....

Most parts can still be found but not at your Canadian tire.

There are some specialized OMVA flea markets events that will cater to our CMP needs..... otherwise some members may have spare parts to share or sell. I have a familiar saying that you cannot restore a CMP without have at least another one for parts.... you are fortunate that yours is in very good condition.

Your fuel valve seems to be missing the bottom washer/spring/nut assembly...
that assembly tends to be hard to replace or find parts for...... memebrs at large may have spare parts available.

On your rims..... most of us old guys have given up trying to remove old tires that have been rust welded to the rim for 60 years and refer to rural tractor/truck tire shops who usually will do the job....safely.... for $15 to $20 each....... I have stood the front end of a farm 4 ton tractor on the edge of old CMP tires without breaking the bead. with due consideration for safety $100 for the 5 wheels is cheap.

On the rims..... hang them from a rope and wack with a hammer.... make sure they rign like a bell..... if dull sound is heard it is cracked. After sandlasting make sure that teh rust pitting is not too deep as to render the whel unsafe..... at the very least half of the steel should be left in deep piths...... some time i the rust is all in the same bottom section.... better replace than risk injury... that would really kill your project.

At 50n pounds of pressure these tires can kill you if the separate..... make sure the studs and nuts are in good shape or ask for replacements.... and you will only find them on MLU not at a tire store..... thread are British Wentworth odd arrangement.

So fire away with the questions and include photos as some of us can't read !!!!!

Bob C.

[Bob Carriere]

Brakes....... master cylinder is almost impossible to find......

John Stuart in Stoney Creek rebuilds them with a SS sleeve good for life.... has him to give you a deal for the school...

Each wheel cylinder should be checked and rechecked.... possibly rebuilt again Stuart can be a source of parts and rubber boots......

Check the oil seals on the axles ... if they are leaking modern replacements are available.... the best brake job is useless if the lining get oiled up. Brake lining can be salvaged by soaking them in naphta gas.... but a fire hazzard.... linings buried in cheap cat litter and heated with a heat lamp is a good alternative..... the dusty cat litter and heat will migrate oil out of the lining and your cat will not rust.

The above are critical safety components.......

Nice to see the old girl still has an original 216 engine.... do you have the right spark plugs for it.... AC 43 or 44 or 45 or an acceptable equivalent.....

The new gas filter pictured is intended for installation on a farm tractor gas tank.... your inline plastic filter is a better bet......

Make sure your radiator is in good shape..... they normally do not run underpressure but wasting expensive antifreeze and risking overheating the engine is not worth being cheap.

I assume you will be draining all axles and tranny and T case and refilling with fresh oil..... monitor the levels regularly... they are known to leak but we affectionetely refer to that as "marking there territory".

If the engine has not started for along while you may want to consider removing the plugs and squirting light engine oil in each cylinder... a table spoon.... and spin the engine with the starter while the plugs are still out.

If the valve cover is removed during that initial spin you may be able to check if oil is actually being pushed to the rocker arm/valve train.

Enjoy.

Bob C.

[Joel Culliford]

Well it was decided to remove the tires so the rims can be sand blasted and three days later only 2 tires are off....determined little tires

One of our soon to be challanges is what to do about the roof hatch. There was a square one but the hatch was removed and a metal plate (bigger then the original hole was welded over top. We need to figure out how to reomve the plate and replace the hatch.

Oh and the welding continues, fillin' in all the extra holes. On a completely side note, our welding teacher is now taking one of his students to Skills Nationals for welding.

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Joel

Removing old tires can be a headache....... be thankful you were not removing original 1940 tires that had become rsut welded to the rims..... so of mine had to be cleaned with a "needle gun" to remove the stuck bead casings off the rims before we could do sandblasting.

The celaner the inside portion of th erim is and the smoother the glossy paint job.... the easier it willbe to instal the new tires...... make sure you borrow a couple of cups of tire lubricant.... the snooty stuff from a truck tire shop.... it really facilitates the job greatly.

If the kids get really good at this maybe you can take in contracts for CMP restorations.

On the hatch..... they are hard to find..... and when you do they are expensive...... if you are not a purist and not looking for absolute accuracy you may be able to reproduce one in your school metal shop ... you just will need access to a real one to measure, photo and fabricate a copy.


Good luck

Bob C.

[Joel Culliford]

That would be great I just don't know where I can access a hatch to get all that info so that the metal shop can do it

[Bob Carriere]

Did a quick search of the MLU forum for "hatch"..... found a number of postings that contain pictures...... it's a start.

Best bets would be Museum.... if they will let you climb on the truck to measure and photo the thing..... museum in Oshawa may be a good spot...

There are a number of CMP collectors in the Toronto area that may be able to help....

Strangely I do nto remember anyone ever posting detailed information on size, construction layout, close up of restored hatches..... or anyone attempting to reproduce one.....

Maybe you need to start a new posting/thread on the restoration section just for "Hatches"...... focusing on the earlier rectangular ones....

Bob C.