My Blitz's

[Mike K]

It's the same as a WW2 Jeep petrol filter . You might source a new element from one of the myriad Jeeps parts suppliers . But you might also get away with a good clean up , the element has lots of brass shim like things that you can dissassemble and clean .

MIKE

[Little Jo]

Scott

Your Fuel Filter is the same as on my 1942 MB Jeep. When I stripped it down I also had a lot of gunk in the bottom and it cleaned up really well and I spent a bit of time on cleaning the filter and all came up OK and I have not had any problems so far.

Cheers

Tony

[sth65pac]

Scott,

I have not used them but they would be of sufficient rating to handle all the electrical tasks as replacements for the originals.

Ian

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Wondering if anyone has used these ball toggle switches for their dash restorations?

They are made in the US by Leviton are SPST and have a rating of 3A @ 125v for the switch with leads and 6A @ 125v for the heavy duty switch.

Can be found on ebay.

[Mike K]

I think that steam pipe is there mainly for off road use. If the vehicle is pointing downhill for a time, the steam will accumulate at the rear of the head .

Not sure about that . Somebody else will know more

[aj.lec]

You need the original cast brackets that bolt on to chassis end

[Bob Carriere]

I am runnign a Chev 261 in a cab 11...... I have connected the stream line and a turn off valve.

Now everyone one knows that 261 have extra steam relief holes in the head/block.

I ran my engine using a clear vinyl line....... you run the engine to full operating temp.... about 160 degrees..... not hot enough for steam.

You run the engine for a while and when you open the valve..... the line filled with green antifreeze turn white with froth moving to the radiator...... after a while the line goes full of green fluid again. My conclusion is the engine can used it even if it is a modern 1959 chev 261. When I redid the line with the proper steel line and rubber connector... I removed the valve and am now running with the line fully open.

what did they know in 1940 that we don't know now....?

Bob

[Keith Webb]

I think I have some of those electrical filters new old stock. Will check for you.

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

As I mentioned in my last post the condition of the seats not too bad.

The seats out of the C15 are very good with only minor repairs to the seats and seat runners.

The seats out of the C60 are a completely different matter. Although the seats themselves are restorable the seat rails are completely stuffed. I may be able to salvage some components from them but I will have to do a complete rebuild.

I am in the process of buying parts for the future restoration and I was wondering about the electrical system on the Blitz's. There are two filter / supressors fitted to the electrical system connected to the voltage regulator.

I was wondering if anyone has found a source for replacement filter / supressors or are they re-using the original ones or are they leaving them out of the electrical system altogether?

[Mike K]

The fuel sender units normally just need a clean up. You test them with a multimeter ..if you havent got one, they are a basic electrical test instrument .A cheap one will be OK for automotive use.

You place the multimeter leads on the wire resistor inside the sender and move the arm up and down and watch the resistance on the meter. Usually, you want it from around 1 to 50 ohms but it varies with different senders.

read this http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/

The toggle switches look nice !

Mike

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Is there a way of testing without opening the unit? and where would I need to place the test leads of the multimeter?

Hi Scott

I'm sorry if i mislead you... I'm used to the LUCAS senders , you can remove the lid on them and get to the innards

OK the GM delco remy ? units . Yes you can test it without pulling it apart.

Put one lead on the HOT 6V connection and the other lead anywhere on the sender body , make sure the connections are clean . Thats it ..simple.

Sometimes the wire resistor and the wiper inside becomes oxidised and intermittent ..you may have to drill rivets to pull it to bits and clean it if it needs it.

One important thing to remember is: the sender and gauge rely on the truck body for a earth return ..It's far better to provide a seperate earth return wire for the sender to gauge unit in the dash ... just use one of the sender mount screws and run the earth wire alongside the HOT wire to the gauge where it is screwed onto the gauge earth mount

Mike

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi Scott - looking at your images of the switch plates I am not sure whether they are correct. You need to remove them to see if my attached image fits.

The switches you are asking about, I am on my second box of fifty. Again look at my switch image where you can see five out of the six are Off/On switches whereas the Gas Switch is an On/On switch that took me over a year to source. There are plenty of On/On Bat Handle toggle switches but not Ball Handle. I have also replicated the small switch plates. I have a couple of complete sets left but then I am out of the On/On switch until I can find some more. On the other hand if you require the large switch plates, I have provisions for those as well. The only difference with the old and new switches is that the On/Off toggle does not stop in the centre. It rests above and below centre respectively.

Bob

[Mike K]

A common problem with sender units is: the rotating shaft has to make a earth connection to the sender units body .. Sometimes that shaft doesn't touch the body cleanly ..it's a intermittent connection as it rotates . Make sure you are touching the actual body of the sender with the probe , not just the shaft itself . If you are touching just the shaft, then your getting misleading results

AC= Albert Champion , the modern spark plug inverntor .... I think I am correct.

[hrpearce]

Scott when I got my C15A the plate was black.

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi Robert - well here is something new to me. I have never seen this configuration of switch plate. I would love to get my hands on one of these to see if I can replicate it.

Bob