Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Graeme,

Have just read the link you provided. Thanks. I'm not sure about some of the terminology they used, but I undertsand that 'Pyrolysis' is bad, as is using flammable sealant. My piddly little butane torch wouldn't even get a color change to the nut when I tried it earlier. I would much rather use a good breaker or geared nut wrench. That was even before your posting, and more inclined to after seeing it. I am always nervous using gas torch, circular saw, etc. I saw my father lose the top of a finger from a moments lapse in concentration while using an electric planer. With his usual sense of humor (after a paragraph of expletives) he told me if I could find the finger piece, I could keep the 'tip'! True story.

Do you think I could use a nut splitter? I have been wanting to try using one just to see how good they are.

[Lynn Eades]

Pyrolysis is covered also in a U tube video clip under a title something like "wheels of fire", maybe Bridgestone. Every person that ever gets involved in these sort of projects should be aware. Pyrolysis is a sneaky but real killer.
There doesn't have to be a fire inside the tyre, it is just a reaction of heat and pressure. there is no visible evidence of it happening prior to the explosion.

Tony, new sheds look great dont they. They're only like it once. Clean walls, No sh*t hanging every where.

[Private_collector]

Tyres bought
P7080023.jpg P7080024.jpg

Wheels blasted & etch primed
P7080027.jpg

Lower engine hatch blasted & repaired
P7080028.jpg

Grille blasted, following previous reworking of mesh.
P7080029.jpg

[Private_collector]

Spent 60min masking my trailer, ready to paint insides of wheel halves.
P7240042.jpg
Wanted to do the insides first to test paint spraying technique and finish. Learnt many years ago, you always do the bits you don't see first when spraying in 'unfamiliar' territory.
P7240043.jpg
Lovelly shiny finish isn't it? Pity it's bloody well meant to be almost flat finish!!!
P7240044.jpg
I have had the same problem that Lloyd McCarthy had encountered with his Cab 12, Gun Tractor. Being that the flattening base for mixing with gloss paint does not provide much flattening when used at specified strength of 5%. Before I attempt the outside of the wheels, I will ring Lloyd for his final strength of base. His truck looked sooo good, and has the precise look I want. Lloyd is a perfectionist.

Fellow MLU'er, Andy Cusworth dropped by this afternoon, while in the area for a local historical Steam Rally. He helped me to get the final two wheel nuts loose and the wheels will be coming off in near future while axles are worked on. Rear first. I never had any hope of removing the stuck nuts before today, because only last night did I consider the possibility of studs being replaced with wrong thread direction. I checked today......and yep......thats whats been done, so I'm very glad I didn't force the issue and wind up with busted threads. If I end up using this rear axle (I have another, good one) I will write to Dirk at LWD and have him send replacements.

I couldn't resist threading the 'danger' nuts on, just to admire the two colors together!
P7240047.jpg

Has anyone realised what color the green I chose is?

The answer is in one of the photos ;-)

[Andy Cusworth]

Tony,

I have to say your work is second to none, the parts you have done look great mate !
and no i can't find the bloody paint name anywhere

or is it called Shed Green ????

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi Tony - I hope you are not going to stay with that green as the instrument panel I am doing for you will be finished in good old Khaki Green No.3.

Bob

[Private_collector]

That's the color I will be using. It is actually a bit darker in real life. Also, my local automotive paint shop has no vintage military formulae and expressed no interest in rectifying the issue. They will create from formula containing their tinters (Protec variety) if formula is supplied to them. This color is a standard mix.

Why did you expect Khaki Green 3?

I chose this color because its a green which I find appealing and it is easily obtained in a number of forms. It is a standard colorbond color which can be picked up from any hardware or paint store, and is available pre-made in acrylic & enamel. I can simply buy a spray can if needing to touch-up anywhere other than on main panels.

Some restorers choose to debate and argue which color is the 'right' one for their vehicles, and if historical accuracy is the desire, that debate is certainly warranted, but that particular aspect of the build does not interest me. It's the physical quality that I will be concentrating on. Color is my choice. After all, If there is a 'right' color for any particular type of vehicle or theatre, then there must be an awful lot of paint colors seen that are wrong.

You can supply the dash in primer if you wish, or spray with Cottage Green Colorbond color, from local paint shop or hardware. Acrylic preferred as I can flatten easily later without causing damage. It's your call!