My Blitz's

[Mike K]

The fuel sender units normally just need a clean up. You test them with a multimeter ..if you havent got one, they are a basic electrical test instrument .A cheap one will be OK for automotive use.

You place the multimeter leads on the wire resistor inside the sender and move the arm up and down and watch the resistance on the meter. Usually, you want it from around 1 to 50 ohms but it varies with different senders.

read this http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/

The toggle switches look nice !

Mike

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Is there a way of testing without opening the unit? and where would I need to place the test leads of the multimeter?

Hi Scott

I'm sorry if i mislead you... I'm used to the LUCAS senders , you can remove the lid on them and get to the innards

OK the GM delco remy ? units . Yes you can test it without pulling it apart.

Put one lead on the HOT 6V connection and the other lead anywhere on the sender body , make sure the connections are clean . Thats it ..simple.

Sometimes the wire resistor and the wiper inside becomes oxidised and intermittent ..you may have to drill rivets to pull it to bits and clean it if it needs it.

One important thing to remember is: the sender and gauge rely on the truck body for a earth return ..It's far better to provide a seperate earth return wire for the sender to gauge unit in the dash ... just use one of the sender mount screws and run the earth wire alongside the HOT wire to the gauge where it is screwed onto the gauge earth mount

Mike

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi Scott - looking at your images of the switch plates I am not sure whether they are correct. You need to remove them to see if my attached image fits.

The switches you are asking about, I am on my second box of fifty. Again look at my switch image where you can see five out of the six are Off/On switches whereas the Gas Switch is an On/On switch that took me over a year to source. There are plenty of On/On Bat Handle toggle switches but not Ball Handle. I have also replicated the small switch plates. I have a couple of complete sets left but then I am out of the On/On switch until I can find some more. On the other hand if you require the large switch plates, I have provisions for those as well. The only difference with the old and new switches is that the On/Off toggle does not stop in the centre. It rests above and below centre respectively.

Bob

[Mike K]

A common problem with sender units is: the rotating shaft has to make a earth connection to the sender units body .. Sometimes that shaft doesn't touch the body cleanly ..it's a intermittent connection as it rotates . Make sure you are touching the actual body of the sender with the probe , not just the shaft itself . If you are touching just the shaft, then your getting misleading results

AC= Albert Champion , the modern spark plug inverntor .... I think I am correct.

[hrpearce]

Scott when I got my C15A the plate was black.

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi Robert - well here is something new to me. I have never seen this configuration of switch plate. I would love to get my hands on one of these to see if I can replicate it.

Bob

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

PM sent.

Bob

[hrpearce]

Bob check out the thread Robert Pearce starts to restore post #91 to #94.
The plate is about 1/16" and the lettering embosed from behind.
I realy hope to have the blitz at Corowa 2012.