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#1
30-08-11, 04:08
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Quote:
Last edited by Grant Bowker; 30-08-11 at 04:11. Reason: to better capture the style of BS spouted by MBAs who've never actually done the job 
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#2
31-08-11, 00:58
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I have a BSc ...MS.....PhD
No offense intended to those who have such professional titles.....
Mine stands for Bull Shit... More of the Same....Pilled higher and Deeper.... ...but I am most proud of the title granted by Aussie officiados..... I now sign my name and show B.T.B. Pictures are coming...... stay tuned tonite. Bob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#3
31-08-11, 03:23
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So here it is...... first the prelude....
I need the inout of Phil W. ( if he has not floated away wtih Irene) and any one else who has tackled re-assembly of a cab 11 or 12..... so wake up dwon under.
I have attached the proverbial photo worth a thousand words. Looking at the front of my truck the pass. side of the frame is twisted upwards. Did not think it was serious until I started installing the fender / nose brackets to the arches...... AT first I believed the "horse collar" that holds radiator was installed wrong...wrong spacers or something. So I drained the rad, pulled it off ( repainted it while at it) and found out I was wrong or that the installation had the right spacers, etc. What I was noticing was the horse collar was not centered...driver's side had a gap over one inch while the pass. ride was tight fitting. Well the rad and horse collar ARE centered its the darn twisting. Look at the picture with the steel rod inserted in holes in the horse collar... the pass. side is protruding forward about 1.5 inches and about 2 inches higher. I applied square dots of white paper for reference. In all the pictures the camera was on a tripod so the sa,e point of references can be observed. So back to the drawing board....visit to the 4 parts cab 12 that I have in the back field. Well the cab 12 has a interesting modification that must have dealt with some problems with the cab 11. They installed a fairly rigid 5/8 steel bar tying together each fender/nose bracket. The steel rod has to travel behind the rad and avoid the fan. Well of the 4 trucks only one still had an original rod in place. so we removed it carefully and set about making a duplicate for my cab 11.... the original will go back for future references. So with Master Grant as my coach we designed a jig that woudl allow to heat and bend a duplicate of the origianl bar. I made the two flat ends from flat bar stock and as the rain was starting to fall ( beginning of Irene) we hurriedly positioned the bar on the welding table under a light drizzel. somewhere along the process I nudged one fo the end plates... it fell and I repositioned it upside down. There is a clearance cirtical dimension issue with the flat end plate.... so it got welded 180 degree the wrong way. Solution.... cut off the plate... make a new one and re weld...Voila. BUT ..... my bigger twisting problem has not been eliminated. I am hoping that this stiff rigid brace will pull the brackets and arches in line when fully tighned in place. Timew will tell I remember Phil assembling his cab 12 with a whole bunch of 1 1/2 loose fitting 1/4 bolts until he could literally shake the loosely assembled cab in place then replacing with proper bolts and tightening each one properly. It almost seems that one dis-assembled the cab11/12 have a tendency to relax and partly regain it former shape....almost like some pastic have a memory and once heated will partly return to there original shape. I am even considering taking the rolling chassis toa frame staithening shop if necessary. Comments... suggestions... incantations and new swear words welcomed..... Bob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#4
31-08-11, 03:28
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End plate.....
...oops ran out of space.
did such a good job at inserting the 5/8 rod partly in the 3/8 plate and plug welded the end..... that I will now have to carve out the plate around the rod.....can't cut the rod as it would now be tooooo short. Will redo it this weekend. It all good welding/fabricating experience. Bob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#5
31-08-11, 05:45
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Bob,
me thinks the truck should be named. . . . drum roll . . . Starboard  'cos she lists to that side . . .Regards Robin oh he of the peanut gallery . . . And supplier of PSP to the Hammond Barn
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#6
31-08-11, 21:58
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Things Atilt
Quote:
Once your sheet metal is back on I suspect that things will fall into place, and as you mentioned, the "loose assembly method" may be necessary prior to tightening things up. How much play do you have in your sheet metal (i.e. bolt holes)? In any case, getting up close and personal with a CMP shows that these beasts have their quirks. I am sure that you will as always, find a way to make things work.
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RHC Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?
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#7
31-08-11, 22:29
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Quote:
Sorry to hear you run into this problem. I would rectify what seems to be the cause of your problem: the twisted frame. It looks to me that if you remove the twist from your truck's frame, the tilt in the cab will be practically gone and can be adjusted by using Phil's method - proof of these early CMPs being "thrown together?  Good luck, Hanno
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Regards, Hanno --------------------------
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#8
01-09-11, 02:47
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Waiting for Phil who is drying up.....
No Phil has not stopped drinking.... the Irene storm has drop rain onhis area real bad..... broke 100 yeras old record..... in fact he may nothave power yet.
Point raised by Rob C. .... most of the cab bolts are 1/4 stove bolts..... holes were at least 3/8 and some were cut oblong almost 1/2 inch long. Bigger 5/16 and 3/8 bolts for fenders and such have corresponding larger hole to allow for alignment......... Hanno's point is correct... if the base is crooked so will the rest. I will need to investigate what frame straightening facilities exists in Ottawa and costs....... For the record all 4 spring packs were disassembled, cleaned. leaves fabricated and replaced as necessary and the total spring pack re-arched..... so the two front ones were very similar in dimensions when installed. Maybe the ground is crooked......!!!! Bob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#9
01-09-11, 17:53
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I have some "Work" cut out for me.....
Visited a frame straighteneing shop this morning.....small shop...owner on site with time to talk.
I had brought some pictures which I will share with you tonite. Steps to be considered.... Build a level platform for the front axle Select two tires that are within 1/4 inch in height from one another. ..... adjust air pressure to bring to perfect level. Measure and measure and remeasure and write it down on a picture. measure space between frame and each spring....frame to level plate, etc. Consider removing spring packs and switching sides... measure and remeasure each time. Having explained that the front cross member and engine support cross member had been removed and replaced.... Loosen all bolts..... including the arches attached to the frame and loosen bolts of bumper.... measure and remeasure...... build jig that can hydraulically twist the frame in the proper direction while the bolts are all loose....... Measure when all is straight.... Over twist frame by known amount measure over twist. relax hydraulic set up measure to see how much has been gained and how much has sprung back. repeat process This sounds like a multi weekend process. Promise to document/photo my progress or lack thereof. Cost estimate......$300 to measure and assess what needs to be done.... ......$1000 minimum to actually do all of the above...... Or do it all yourself.... free and the experieince is priceless.. Bob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#10
01-09-11, 18:29
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It should be fairly quick and not too dirty to swap the springs side to side to see if the problem reverses itself or (better) goes away. Is there a spare front spring we can use in the process? 1 spring out, the temp in, the other spring out, the first one into where the second came from then the second to replace the temp where the first started out. This would mean the axle and frame are always connected, no need to remove the brake lines, steering etc or support and restrain the axle and frame as much as if you removed both springs at the same time. Even quicker if the bushing in the temp spring is a bit sloppy.
Any frame built to be able to jack the frame back into shape will need to be quite a bit stonger than the truck frame. Big and heavy. Is there a good source of recycled (cheaper) steel beams close to the barn? I'd better hurry up and get my frame back into rolling shape so we can bring yours into the barn. To that end, I've got enough shim stock on order (supposed to arrive tomorrow) to do the pivots on a dozen front axles. Standard sizes.... If it arrives as promised, the frame should be rolling with brakes by the end of the weekend, not sure about whether the engine will be in the frame.
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