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			#1  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			Here is a pdf of a similar manual if anyone is interested. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	http://www.tm9-801.com/tm9-1827b/tm9-1827b.pdf  | 
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			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			Hi Tony - Bower Brakes here in Adelaide rebuild these.  I have had several done and I believe these guys are the only ones in the country that do them. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Bob 
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	Chevrolet Blitz Half-Track Replica - Finished and Running Ford F15 - unrestored Ford F15A X 2 - unrestored Website owner - salesmanbob.com  | 
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			#3  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			Thanks for posting the link to the Bendix Manual download.  It just amazes me that you can a question about a resource and with in hours some body comes up with a resource. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			The Bendix Manual looks like it will make interesting reading. Cheers Phil 
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	Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com  | 
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			#4  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			I have started assembling the wheels to tyres. 
		
		
		
			P9110235.jpg P9110236.jpg Only minor hitch was the 30 minutes it took to tighten the nuts, because I wanted to wrap each one in low tack tape before putting the spanner onto them, to minimise the damage to paint. Notice I didn't say 'eliminate'! I vaguely recall there used to be a rubberised compound you could buy for dipping tool handles. That stuff could possibly have coated the spanner or socket. If I can find the stuff I will try it. P9110237.jpg What color do I paint the ends of these wheel bolts? Are they red like the nuts, or green like the wheel? P9110246.jpg P9110245.jpg Rear shock finished. The other one is still soaking to allow easier disassembly. 
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			Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) Last edited by Private_collector; 11-09-11 at 12:29. Reason: pics stuffed up!  | 
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			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			Finished the first seat today, with help from new bolts, springs and eventual success getting sandblasting done. First time seat was blasted, the guys left it out in the rain, unprimed. 
		
		
		
			PB210032.JPG This was the original state when I first saw them. P8280145.jpg Sound condition though. P9110232.jpg P9110231.jpg The seat canvases look quite good, but I can't seem to get all the wrinkles out of the back, no matter how much adjusting I do. The stuff in the seat runner tracks is actually grease. Once I slide the seat along mechanism a few times, I will remove excess. P9110247.jpg With daylight fading, I started pulling the brake vacuum booster apart. I had read the manual fairly lightly & promptly forgot it, so when I got the two parts of the vac chamber apart, the giant spring that jumped out at me came as somewhat of a surprise. It also prompted several very bad words which would make a bikie blush!!!.   Great bloody way to end a weekend. Like being on the set of The Magic Roundabout.
		
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			Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) Last edited by Private_collector; 11-09-11 at 13:23. Reason: left something out  | 
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			#6  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			 Quote: 
	
 Keep up the good work, but don't overdo it. My €0,02 worth anyway. Regards, Hanno 
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	Regards, Hanno --------------------------  | 
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			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			 Quote: 
	
 Now, Now. Plenty of time for scratches later. When my enthusiasm wanes. As my dear old Dad used to say, Perfection will be adequate. I'm not quite that bad though. Still, you should see my chook house ![]() P8090047.jpg P.S: All jokes aside, by the time I finish this truck, these bits now will be well worn. Trust me.  
		
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	Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)  | 
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			#8  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			Hey tony, 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	seats look good, maybe wrinkles will go with wear as the material gives. Regarding colouring your nuts    I'd say the thread head is green so that if a nut was not put on you notice instantly the absence of red prior to inflating tyre or if you lost one of that makes sense ?Thats a posh Chook House .... i bet you have the manual for it too  
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			#9  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			 Quote: 
	
 Perfection is great, but when you come to a point where perfection is not defined one should make choices. Anyway, I will anser your question: the ends of the wheel studs most likely were red, as the nuts were painted red by the military using a brush. Unless one of your ancestors was a soldier and a perfectionist like you. He would have removed the wheel nuts and spaypainted them red, thus leaving the wheel studs green - that is, if they had any paint on them to begin with. . . . ![]() Keep up the good work! Hanno 
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	Regards, Hanno --------------------------  | 
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