Cmp c15a gs - Page 5

Gunner · #**121** 24-01-12, 09:05

An old time tubing bender once told me that you have to fill the pipe with dry (really dry... he was quite specific on this) sand. Include sufficient extra length for about six inches of wastage as you will have to thread and cap the ends to keep the sand in. Start in the middle of the pipe and work your way out so the wastage is easy to hack off and toss. All this was to keep the tubing from flattening out and to avoid the dented in look you will get on each bend when using a hydraulic tubing bender.

Cheers! Mike

Joel Culliford · #**122** 24-01-12, 13:07

Hey Rob, we had an open house at the school and there a female student who was promoting the school, the autoshop and the truck. She loves the sound of the horn, it is her favorite part, so she asked if I would post a video of the horn...I finally caved in and said I would, voila...and now back to our regularly scheduled question.

How long are the pipes and what are the angles to bend them?

Joel

Bob Carriere · #**123** 25-01-12, 00:28

....sadly under the influence of a female...... young female....

Yeah what about the bows,,,,, and not the ones in her hair.....

Bob

Joel Culliford · #**124** 25-01-12, 02:37

How long are the bows (poles) that form the frame for the canvas and what are the anlges for each bend. I need a template so that hopefully the metal shop can fabricate them.

Joel

Bob Carriere · #**125** 25-01-12, 02:48

Who has a set of original bows that can be measured.

The width is dictated by the size of the box.....

The height once fitted into the box brackets......

The first bend should be at about 85 degrees so the top section will be partly bowed upwards when fitted to the box.... that should keep the tarp slightly higher in the center so it will not sag with water.....

I think the approach by Chris of doing them in two pieces then cutting to proper width has a lot of value..... a simple inside dowel at the overhead joint with decent Mig welding would solve the problem.

Are the bows interchangeable between ealry 2B1 and later 2C1 boxes.... as I am interested in the cab 11 box .......

I bow to the experts.

Bob

RHClarke · #**126** 25-01-12, 03:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Who has a set of original bows that can be measured...I bow to the experts. Bob

I am not volunteering his services, but Mel in Whitby might be of some assistance - providing he still has the truck with the bows one it. Perhaps one of the Chickn Ranchers could provide an update on Mel and his trucks?

Gordon Yeo · #**127** 25-01-12, 04:49

I don't know if the bows on the #12 cab box, with the fold down sides, are the same size as the #13 cab solid side box. Obviously I don't know the proper box identification numbers. If the two box types share the same bow dimensions then the Oshawa Museum has a set. The #12 cab Ford truck I donated to them had a set of original cargo box bows. Perhaps they could be used as a pattern, or measured for reproductions.
Gord

r.morrison · #**128** 25-01-12, 05:39

Gentlemen: Back on focus!!!! Just got off the phone (2hrs) with Joel to try and get the proper answer to his dilemma. Thanks "Boobie" for the" needle in the bum". I have strongly suggested to Joel to get on the phone and call the local regiments, as there are are a couple of 15 CWT'S floating around in the Niagara Peninsula. What I have suggested to him is a template of each bow and cross member, plus photos, and from there, he can take them to his metal shop or a local business and have them fabricated. Hopefully, he will share this info on the forum. The input from all the members has been greatly appreciated and enlightening, so Joel will keep you posted on the out come.

Robert PS: and no more G'D Horns! R.

Bob Carriere · #**129** 26-01-12, 02:56

Gord..... you are right the Oshawa group as a cab 12 with the same box as my cab 11....... but is it the same for the cab 13.... all you really need is the radius of the curves and overall dimensions...

Now...Joel.... the aircraft museum in Hamilton had a cab 13 15cwt.... not sure if they sold it.... but it had bows..... not sure if original.

I already have a new tarp made by Stew Loy and Co'y and will probably adjust my bows to fit the height of the tarp for a better fit...... or amybe allow for the bows to be adjusted downwards if the tarp shrink over time....

I can check with the CWM in Ottawa but not sure if what they have is original....

Now horn wise Phil Waterman as a discreetly place air horn near the top section of his C60 tall radio box.... which commands a lot of attention when used on the highway.......

Bob

Phil Waterman · #**130** 26-01-12, 17:22

Hi Bob

Yup added the air horns after one to many little cars tried to become wheel chocks. The regular horn is for the polite Toot the air horns for getting their attention.

Now back to the bows, I've been thru my photo collection to see if I could find what a "original" set of bows would look like. I'm not sure there is a single correct design. I've found period photos with the top of the bow flat across form the to side bends, others with a little peak in the middle others with a significant peak in the middle. Then look at the non cargo versions with the bows and canvas added to disguise the special purpose truck as a plain cargo.

There also seems to be a lot of difference in do the bows have fore aft bars or boards. Which gets into the whole question of will the truck be parked outside with the tarp on in the rain or snow? Because if the answer is yes the fore aft connections tend cause the canvas to catch and hold the snow and rain.

Cheers Phil

r.morrison · #**131** 27-01-12, 03:36

Phil/Bob: I scanned and emailed a couple of pages from Bill Gregg's books, down to Joel. Given the photos and measurements from the book, Joel should be able to manufacture the bows for his 15CWT. If he's got a talented person in his shop, he shouldn't have a problem. I know he's also trying to get in touch with some local 15CWT owners. Just has a problem getting the owners to return their emails! Cheers.....Robert

cletrac (RIP) · #**132** 30-01-12, 03:45

I have an original bow off a 2A1 but they're a bit different to the other 15 cwt bows. They are made in two pieces and welded together at the centre.

Joel Culliford · #**133** 30-01-12, 05:22

Still should work for measurements and/or a template

Joel Culliford · #**134** 03-02-12, 05:07

So....cletrac, think you could make a template for me?

So the students are rewiring the dash panel and are using the Chey wiring diagram. On the diagram it it shows a headlight beam indicator. Any body have an idea what this is or where it is on a 1942 chev dash. Pictures would be really helpful.

Bob Moseley (RIP) · #**135** 03-02-12, 11:35

Hi Joe - encountered this many years ago and came up with the following.

Dim Lights Bright Lights

When I first started restoring Chevrolet instrument panels, as usual, I obtained the best NOS speedometer and instrument faces to replicate. My first speedometer face just happened to be a “Bright Light” face and several old panels I obtained were all the same. Lately though the ones I have been obtaining have a “Dim Light” face. Of course I didn’t discover this immediately until I was comparing instrument serial numbers and found that I had two different numbers for the speedometer face. Shock, horror, where did this “Dim Light” come from and what was its history.

I consulted one of my guru contacts who told me the following. Prior to about 1938 there was basically no beam indication in a speedometer. In about that year Pontiac and Chevrolet built in a low beam indicator and that was described on the speedometer face. In the late 1940s, apparently after many complaints from army drivers, the wiring was changed to allow a high beam indication and that was reflected on the new speedometer face. I do not doubt the veracity of this story but would be interested for any corroboration. As an aside apparently the British were high beam indicators right from the start.

BTW your replacement switch and plate are en-route.

Bob

Joel Culliford · #**136** 07-02-12, 00:22

So today the students were test fitting a headlight, but it seems to not fit correctly and I know that they did fit when the vehicle was first dropped off. They seem to be sticking out a bit too much, especially compared to the original pictures. Any ideas what is wrong?

Grant Bowker · #**137** 07-02-12, 00:50

The pattern in the lens appears to be twisted compared to the original. I can think of 3 possible causes for this. Either the headlight buckets are twisted in the nose assembly of the truck, the inner part of the bucket is twisted with respect to the outer or the sealed beam is twisted in the bucket assembly.

The outer bucket is assymetric (as is the cutout in the truck's nose) and should only be possible to install correctly with one adjusting screw at the top and the other on the side. Check carefully to be sure the correct screw is at the top. I don't recall whether the sideways screw is on the left or right.
Similarly the layout of adjusting screws and tension springs should only let the inner bucket fit nicely in one orientation in the outer bucket. The inner bucket should ride smoothly on the rounded inner rim within the outer bucket.
Finally, it should only be possible to fit the bulb one way in the inner of the bucket due to the mounting lugs on the back of the sealed beam needing to fit into recesses on the inner bucket. Any other orientation will make the bulb sit unevenly (and twisted) with only one lug in its recess or possibly just sit far forward in the bucket, not well restrained in rotational alignment.

In your "after" photo the securing screw is at the top of the exterior (rounded) trim ring, in the "before" photo it is at the bottom. I believe the bottom is "normal".

Bob Carriere · #**138** 07-02-12, 02:47

.....bulging eye ball is usually a thyroid problem....

....but would never occur on a Chev...

Joel Culliford · #**139** 07-02-12, 05:27

wow, I'm so confused...and I feel like I should go to the doctors now

I keep trying to read Grant's message and just keep getting confused

Joel

Grant Bowker · #**140** 07-02-12, 11:27

Yes, I have that effect on some people. Sometimes I confuse myself too.
Basically I'm starting from the belief that the embossed lines in the lens of the sealed beam should be mainly horizontal or vertical. Having them at an angle, as shown in the "after" photo means something is out of alignment. Most of the parts should fit together better in one orientation than others (if done gently).
This page http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/GMC/195...p30049_jpg.htm shows the headlight of a later GMC. the orientation of the lens lines should be similar and the positioning of the adjusting and retaining screws should also be similar.
Does this clear any of the mud?

Bob Carriere · #**141** 07-02-12, 20:17

Hi Joel

Have a look at the back of the glass bulb..... it should have three raised alingment tabs raised and molded as part of the glass.

It is possible these raised glass alignment tabs are not resting properly into the metal cup/bowl...... or your bowl may not have the necessary cut out ofr the raised tabs.....

Let me know what you find....

Bob

Grant Bowker · #**142** 07-02-12, 22:19

Bob to the rescue ....translating my gibberish into his own version of Franglais.

Joel Culliford · #**143** 08-02-12, 05:23

I am here to admit that I'm an idiot...that's what you get for having chef look at headlights. I rummaged through the parts bin and realized that the original outside rim pieces were bigger then the one that came off the other truck, and now the the lightsdon't stick out, they look fine. At least the students can start to see if the lights work now. They were so impreased that I worked on the truck, they didn't think I liked to get dirty. The look on their faces was priceless.

I'm such a dumbass

Joel

Bob Carriere · #**144** 09-02-12, 03:13

You have now graduated from the CMP school of hardknocks...... no mistakes no learning...... at least you did not break anything irreplaceable......

You are in good company........

Now show us a picture of what the truck looks like.

Bob

Joel Culliford · #**145** 02-03-12, 03:03

Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay...had a side project to finish

We now can see in the dark...well some of us. The headlights work (sort of). They turn on and off, but there is no high and low beam. The wiring needs to be fixed, and it will, so promises a student. We also had the issue of the truck was not running. To fix this, the students drained the tanks, cleaned the tanks and then re-attached the tanks. Jake now has it running on one tank and will be working on the other. We also found out that the floaters in each tank do not work, that will ahve to fixed as well.

When it comes to the CMP...I have seen the light.

Here are some pictures of the shop as well

Private_collector · #**146** 02-03-12, 09:39

Joel & crew,

You folks are doing a terrific job. Well done.

You should all be very proud of your achievements.

Bob Moseley (RIP) · #**147** 02-03-12, 13:00

Hi Joel - did you receive the replacement switch and plate. Some feedback would be nice.

Bob

Joel Culliford · #**148** 02-03-12, 13:29

Sorry about that Bob, it just arrived the other day. I did get the switch, but the only plate with it was a little on/off plate. There was no plate saying it was the side front light switch.

Thank you again for the new switch...you're the best

Joel

Bob Moseley (RIP) · #**149** 02-03-12, 13:39

Hi Joel - the plate I sent you had Side On Off on it. It was taped to the back of the business card. That is your missing plate.

Bob

Joel Culliford · #**150** 02-03-12, 22:57

D'oh....ah crap....I took it to school and handed the envelope to the teacher, I didn't look on the back of your card. Hopefully he didn't throw the envelope out with the card in it.

Joel